shizzzon

well, from what i see, if u still do not like it, explain what it isn't doing that u want because i dont see why it isn't a nice;y built box spec-wise unless there is something wrong with the design, amp settings or subs. It could very well be the subs themselves that have the problem...

OK man, i got some designs! And this will ensure a port area of up to 500sqin!!! This will be MASSIVE for comp use, MASSIVE! Easily shrinkable for daily music listening at lower notes! Here is selections- 3 18s = 763.4 sqin 4 15s = 706.9 sqin 6 12s = 678.6 sqin 9 10s = 706.6 sqin Those are surface area comparisons between subs. 3 18s is the ideal choice for best potential in the lanes. personally... if u know how to set gains for both music (safe gain setting which is proper way) and for comp use, CLip the hell out of it without failure, then i'd suggest 3 2000ds at the minimum. If money was a problem, 3 AQ3500ds would be fine. Yes that's excessive power and their is such things as burps and quick show offs. I do not suggest prolonged usage of such power to Xcons for more than a few seconds so it's up to you on the power choice. However, 3 18s would be nice. Because 3 18s requires less room, the wall would not be as deep as you may think leaving plenty of room in the back.

ok, u would pick a test tone such as 27hz, turn head unit up 75% of the way, turn subsonic all the way UP. Put stereo on repeat and start playing 27hz test tone. At first it should be barely outputting anything or it may be outputting a lot... but it will about to be a LOT more in just a sec. Have yourself watch the movement of the L7s while you SLOWLY turn the subsonic back down. When the subs get to a point to where they are moving at a dangerous rate, stop turning it down! If the subs start to heat up, STOP IMMEDIATELY! No dmm to use in this method.

hmm, i was under the impression you already had or purchased the equipment? If not, then give me a moment, Having total control of the design including equipment... just gets better, Give me a few days so i can do rough draft designs before i find the right cone area for a wall.

accurately would require a dmm, using your eye is decently well enough.... U survived this long, so turning it up any just makes it that much safer.

yea, i had a request to come to a local Midas shop because they wanted to hear my wall BEFORE i even had a port in it yet, just a hole cutout. They asked to turn it up, i blasted a song which peaked at 58hz and shimmered all 5 door bay openings very loud and was told to immediately kill it because the boss, who was right by my car, totally unexpected such power and destruction to occur and caught the attention of people in the waiting room through the concrete wall... They don't want me to come back and play now, i've got it ported now.

Ahh! turn that subsonic back up to the high 20s! The subsonic prevents bottoming out... It's to prevent failure mostly of your subs. It is a high pass crossover. The low pass filter should be just under 100hz. hdrox88- i have heard that termpro makes some software for the car audio box building world but i am 100% unfamiliar with it. Jay-C76 has it so ask him about it.

For competition use - roughly 500sqin minimum to 750sqin maximum For daily use - 336sqin minimum to 448sqin maximum Port area without diamond - 306sqin Port area with diamond - ~360sqin

i have a design that can make the port completely take up the entire middle section of the baffle and then diamond shape the middle in between all 4 subs to gain roughly an additional 50 sqin equaling the BARE MINIMUM of 12.5sqin of port per cube. If that's what u want... then ok but it wil. not be easy to make. If you can properly angle the wood to make it work then i'll go ahead but the port area is small for comp use. And i'll warn you again, the port WILL be hard to make... the port will be right up against all 4 subs to accomplish this port area.

well, your box is definitely within what you said it should be in. So, it didn't hit the lows well? was that the problem? That is odd though, unless the subsonic filter was set too high on the amp. that box should have destroyed your car, hehe.

i dont know really why it is so mandatory but it's HIGHLY possible to get louder without a wall then to use a wall.... if you did not know that! The only reason to go with a wall is to maximize cone area, in my opinion, so u can have plenty of room for equipment(batts and amps) In your case... you have plenty of room for both, but the baffle for a wall says otherwise. A port could still be made, 306 sqin worth, but that's only 11sqin per cube. I'm not sayin this is horrible, it would work and probably without port noise due to the low power(yea, i'm serious) but to maximize your install, the port will be restricting pressure greatly. A box vs a wall- Box will have a loading area to use.. MASSIVE db gains over a wall. Box can be adjusted physically to achieve possibly even higher gains. Box is never permanent install and can be removed relatively easy. Wall has no loading area and only works better as the volume in front of it gets smaller and smaller. (for your vehicle, you would have tons of volume to pressurize). Wall cannot be moved once installed so once it's secured, better hope it's the best design ever... u get what i'm sayin? Wall is permanent in terms of not easy capability of removing quickly. It is very common for non walls to be louder than walls... trust me, for your vehicle and what i'm seeing, a non wall should be better. If you insist otherwise, i will continue with the wall but you will not do too good in competition like you should with the equipment you have, that's a guarantee. Music would be good enough

the only thing i find that is accurate is the port length and that's if you choose the correct end correction.

hey chinbruiser, i just checked, u are right about optimal enclosure size for single 12. So, my next question is, if u still got that box, can u please measure outside dimensions then internal port dimensions so i can be sure of the correct tuning. 35hz seems to be good for the lows which u say wasn't there that much so i must be sure it was built properly.

do NOT use winisd to find the ideal response... It is not correct!

let me go ahead and tell u that L7s needed VERY LARGE enclosures for their size! So 7 cubes for 2 12" L7s is minimal. A single 15" L7 wants over 6 cubes net if i remember right.

u know SPL refers to a design in which usually will sound terrible for music. So, if you want to listen to music... then use another more broad explanation like- I want it to be loud overall or i want it to destroy the low end or i want just a little low end and more louder bass(to the ear) 40-50hz range... Everybody wants loud so it's like a redundant request. If nobody wanted loud, nobody would use an amp or better yet, upgrade over stock period.

we got a problem man, the baffle size isn't large enough for such a largely required port... i have just got done designing the largest squared and expanded squared port and i do not approve of such design as the port area is lacking... I have also designed the baffle for use for 4 or 6" aeroports and they too do not reach their recommended port area either. The expanded squared port just does make it but is a complicated port and do not suggest you try and make it. You may NOT be able to do a wall. I am suggesting it may not be a good idea to try. In that instance, a largely built box would accommodate. I will be talking to a good friend of mine who knows a little bit about suvs and see what he recommends and get back with you.

ok, i'm gonna start drawin out the design. You say you bought 9 sheets of 0.75" thick MDF? Don't be surprised if that's just the half of it! I never try to get people to spend unnecessary money but at the tuning level you will be running, very low, the need to double or triple wall some sides of the box is going to be mandatory. It is of experienced knowledge that using multiple sheets does not necessarily just strengthen the heck out of a wall like you may think, but what it will help greatly is the prevention of resonation on the wall(s) itself. You do not want to be blastin it and the box resonating and flexing like crazy. There will be more to it than just wood, it will just be a while until i get to the next bracing step.

i'll be doing some pressure tests on the driver door soon. I have absolutely no deadening in it and i need to see exactly what the door may or may not need to increase pressure in the car AND prevent further failures inside the door.

i think you should put the sub in a box

So who are we to believe, Kicker or someone else? lol That's why some people may get the same birthsheet.

lol, that shows how strict the new rules are now! So strong, even the current members got logged out just from trying to Agree!!!

ok i found one made by PAC Audio- BG-12 This thing will shut off Anything connected off of it that registers below 11.6v accurate to within 0.1vDC

well, i was hoping nobody directly would ask because i've been hearin that they've been "phasing out" of the car audio world... Why? who knows because it's such a good investment. I use a SMART fuse block made by Cadence. Model number is FH-8. They dtopped makin em a few yrs ago so if u cant find any, that's why. I'll try and find a company that makes something like this and post here if i find one.

that's another point u brought up... Can ECC memory be overclocked.. and by OC i mean just 1 MHz? How tolerant is ECC memory when overclocking? Do popular companies that make OC chips such as Corsair do ECC memory like this too?