shizzzon

i'm no amp repair guy so the info i'm bout to post is random guessing. Without opening it up, it could and very well be the FETs or the power supply that blew. How? excessive current... fuse should pop though... excessive current from low voltage scenario.. Playing for 40 minutes... That can \will heatup the alt and eventually start to decrease it's output capability. Is it possible that the alt's voltage started to drop too low when car was on and pulling all current directly from batt only and eventually dipped too low and caused a low voltage scenario which in turn rushed in too much current inside the amp causing things to blow? It's definitely possible... I would invest in a low voltage shut-off switch. I have one like it. Anything below 12.5v, whatever is connected to it will immediately shut off until voltage rises above 12.5v.

i know this is a little old but u use Xeon for daily processing, games, etc? I always wondered how and what differed from servers cpus vs mainstreamed cpus such as core 2 duo\quad and i7s

oh, word of advice that someone told me when i was building my wall- Don't build your wall based on us, build your wall based on performance. Time = eternity, we don't want to see a quick 1 week wall before destruction happens, we want to see a long standing wall. I've been tweakin my wall now for 3 months goin on 4 months now and still not done yet. Don't rush. Once it's done.. you have just begun...

Also, post price and one more thing- Have you contacted AQ about this? Might be better to just ship it back to AQ and have them recone aluminum coils on for you. See what's cheaper for you, selling or reconing.

honestly, i dont care if Jacob hooked it up for you, everybody makes mistakes so you can't view someone as old as the installer is as being perfect. if u say the protect light always comes on regardless of what u do, then contact sundown and see what to do next. Then... when this is all done, let us know what the problem was.

time to get more specific- turn car into accessory mode and see if the amp comes on or if it's in protect. Do not turn it up at all, leave stereo as low as possible! No beatin when the car isn't on! May be low voltage or it may already be damaged from low voltage surge. Or... maybe the amp's led colors inside got reversed and it's actually working, lol

Well, the first thing on my car finally broke bout an hour ago. One of the plastic threaded screw holders to hold part of my window\door lock module in my car's door panel just broke straight off today. Had to get a longer screw for it to reach the portion that's left and hold it together that way. I have a feeling that my driver door is suffering from extensive pressure since that's where i meter at...

be sure to sand the corners inside that box or install pvc to round them over.

Wow!, now that's a good thermal rating for the new 8s! Definitely wqanna see some people do a huge multi 8 install now! As for the X8... is there any 2.5" coil 8s floatin around in the car audio world? That is insane though, there are a few 8" subs out there using a 2" coil rated up to 500wrms so a 2.5" coil.... hmm,

just got done doing Polyfill testing in my car. Using a higher tuned port then dumping Acoustastuff in the box to attempt to lower tuning to peak at the proper frequency did NOT increase SPL at all, nor did it decrease either! It did however increase pressure at very lower levels. Port tuned to peak at 54hz yet 50hz is still the loudest... tested 36 hz before and after and 36hz did increase in pressure so it works at very lower levels but the increase is not substantial. It's better to tune to desired note than to "fix" the problem. My last reading at the steering wheel was a 152.02 with the wrong port tuning.. this is when i stopped testing is when the score kept dropping as i was cutting the port off.. Well, i changed a few things- Driver sun visor vertical, closed all vents, lifted middle console door open, glove box open, passenger seat must remain all the way back, forward in outlaw hurt me. Passenger sun visor down. Acoustastuff stuffed in sunroof and closed. This does help VERY little but it does help, less than 0.1 db but it is readable. I felt tons of air being shot out of the sunroof weatherstripping but when i sealed it off with duct tape, the pressure dropped! I am to assume that this may only help when everything is shut and rolled up only. I put pressure on the sunroof and it increased pressure! I couldnt do it when i was metering myself but this is what i got just by opening, moving and stuffing sunroof- I went from a 152.02(wrong port tuning) to a 153.41(wrong port tuning) I now register higher at the metering position with the wrong port tuning than i did with the right port! I backed the score up 3x within a 0.09 db difference!

When you got guys that you don't even know come up to you like a celebrity and ask to see your car because they know who you are?!?! I swear, the other night i was in taco bell's drive thru and 3 guys were walkin behind my car to go into taco bell and noticed my car because it was all lit up and one of the guys came up to me at my window and asked- :You got the wall, right?" I was dumbfounded.. i go, Yes? He said that he works at Toyota and has worked on my car before doing oil changes, of course and wanted his 2 friends to see a "serious setup." I said sure... they were freaked out what they saw in the car. I couldnt never let them hear it but seein is good enough. ------ When you design setups for other people just to get them loud.

it means the tone you are using is either the wrong frequency or the wrong amplitude.

yep. In the back of my car, i filled the whole passenger side up between the body and frame with expanding foam. I didnt wanna do the driver side since the gas line is over there and my box was aiming at pasenger side anyways so it was a logical decision. Have u ever tried messing with your ports any? Slight cutting each back by an 1" and see if u gain? If u have a DMM that can read in millivolt, go to ebay or somewhere and purchase the Hyperdynamics SPL meter. It reads just as accurate as a Tlab and up to 186 so if u ever get that high, lol, WOW! The meter is under $100 so it would be a great gift for yourself when testing. It uses a dmm because it gives off voltage reading. You then take the reading and type it into it's little basic program that comes with it and it tells u the db score. Of course, when testing in real-time, the higher the mV, the higher the score.

you know i never messed with those! I had thought about it but when i burped a 148... well, i was in the process of preparing for the wall build right after so i never messed with them.

when u say clamped, is this a guesstimate measurement? was just amperage measured? For full blown out competition, i can tell u some designs that should blow you away. There are 3 designs which excel in the loudest designs i tested in the back of the car- Sub back port back 11" from hatch door was the loudest period! Next is sub back port up, sub 11" from hatch door. Last but not least - sub facing to the side (opposite side of where meter is placed) and port back But, before u start over, you will also need more power! for budget reasons, put an Audiopipe AP30001D on EACH sub wired at 1 ohm for comp use ONLY. And also before deciding to do this, i would highly advise that you or someone else get a DMM and ammeter and measure realtime voltage and amperage output from speakers terminals on a single amp on a TEST TONE, the note for your peak(i know u use music but test tone is more stable output) and post the numbers here. If the actual rise is lower than a full 1 ohm higher, then u will smoke these audiopipe amps, i need to see real numbers here.

havent messed with em yet, sometime this weekend i will though...

wherever there is weatherstripping... there is a leak in pressure. Any weatherstripping on a vehicle that is in an area where sound pressure will be in effect will need to be filled or blocked off. Filled is more of a permanent solution, using runs of duct tape PER RUN tends to be the better solution. This will attempt to keep pressure in the vehicle as long as possible to help your score. Also, it may be to your advantage to remove ALL interior panels and factory sound barriers and look for any air leaks that could effect your score. Some parts of a vehicle may leak right outside and you never know it if u don't fully inspect your vehicle! I do strongly advise this though- If you have come in here to try to gain higher pressure level for your install and you already knew some of these tricks and your score really isn't up to par, STOP! These tricks are intended to help you gain after you have properly built a box and tuned it and have it positioned properly for your vehicle. Without making the source the best it can be, everything else is pointless to try and gain.

ok, i understand you now, so what's a good piece i can use to displace volume in the wall for testing? I know it can't be anything soft.. i was thinkin of some small empty cardboard boxes but dont know it's effect.

what is your actual box rise? Also, if this is Tlab mic, where is meter position exactly and what is the loudest score you have hit on a test tone, not music. Also what is your amps rated at and how many u got? just to let u know when i had my 2 12s in the hatchback- I did a solid 148.0 flat in the driver kick off of 2 2200ds measuring ~2230w TOTAL, about 1115w per amp at a 42hz peak which was daily tuned and not comp use which could have been a lot louder and only 56sqin of port area. I was able to hit so high because my loading area for the port was in a position that allowed the port to extend all the way around the box. right now i'm doin just over a 156 in the kick but only a 152.9 at the headrest.

ok, in your example, leaving port area the same but decreasing internal net volume will cause the port to peak at a later stage... Maybe just a couple Hz but definitely later on. I need to fill some volume in my box just to see if something remarkable happens, hehe.

actually, tuning is somewhat driver dependent! i can't say specifically what i'd recommend for you because the design i made for you allows you to adapt multiple possible tuning levels. I know Fi always recommends 32hz... It depends really. what i'd do is just build the box without a port adapter. If you want more lows, start building different port adapters to obtain a nice crazy rumble. the box without a port adapter installed will give a well rounded sound of audible lows and head-hurting upper notes (40s-50s)

yea, i was gonna say, the site he posted is good if you got plenty of room to build a box that takes up more than the norm space... You have just enough space for this build. I dedicated a massive load of port area to this design so you can get lot's of potential on the mic if u ever wanted to get metered although there's more to it than that.... more port area = more spl FYI.

well that is how it will look, lol. I'll give you the dimensions for the wall at some point... after u get those other measurements i asked earlier. The rounded corners on the baffle, you can do that if u want but all it's goona do is ease up on some of the expanding foam. The wall will not go back like that.

maybe you are comparing an X to an L7 or an L7 to an L5?

oh... i thought u werent competing.... ok i'll keep that in mind. U better find somebody with a mic u can use on a daily basis so u can find the right size port for comp use.