shizzzon

when the output of an amp is outputting at a very low volume, lot lower than normal at the level being played, never turn it up louder... even more damage can occur if there is something wrong with it. Unhook remote controller and do everything via the amp. Make sure the crossover points are set right. LPF set around 60-80hz and subsonic in the 30s or lower, however u got it tuned to or off if sealed(with proper power). also if it's none of these, replace rca jacks with a new set or run the rcas to a different preout on the head unit.

in experience with "big boy" amps, i would never rely on low voltage protection to kick in when it's outputting some serious power. I've heard this from audio companies\shop owners as there is a chance that the protection may not react fast enough and cause damage. It's the same logic as let's wire a sub down to 0.15 ohms when it's only 1 ohm stable and blast it... Some frequencies may be playin over 1 ohm so if it drops below 1 ohm, it's got protection.... It's not safe! Sure u can wire the 2000d to 4 ohms and get more power out of it than what u have now obviously if u feel like it. If u really that anxious, go for it.

that sounds like he's on stock alternator. 13.1v is the range of float for these type of batts. Any current demand larger than what the alt can handle will dip down to the batteries. As the current output from an alt increases, the voltage drops until it can't keep up, then it's all on the batts in terms of voltage. Also, assuming he still has a stock alt, that's alot of reserve capacity for a stock alt, if he doesn't have a batt charger, i hope he does a lot of drivin in the 2-3krpm range to keep those batts charging... but not too long i hope or it'll kill his alternator. he has 209aH in the car. Let's say he has an 80A alt. If both batts dropped 25% from a full charge, it would take approximately, taken into account the car is using about 40A while driving, about 1hr 20min at a constant 2-3krpm to charge those batts back up... that would definitely kill the alternator obviously. also, nobody drives at that high rpm unless speeding on the interstate for a very long time. For your buddy's sake, he needs to ensure he's properly keepin his batts charged because that is most likely not the fault of Kinetik. I have LESS aH than he does(in the rear, not total in the car) and i'm runnin over 7,000wrms in my ride and i only have 1.1v drop so that shows you that something is definitely wrong with the charging system.. not the batts or at least hope it hasnt gotten that far by now.

From experience with a wall, anything u put in it will sound very accurate, actually much tighter than a typical sealed box sounds. Strange to hear that? It's actually not strange. The subs have no loading area before the sound reaches your ears so what u hear is the effect of no loading, nothing for the waves to amplify off of, just straight to you. Now, for the low bass, such as in the low 30s and especially below that, it takes a lot of power, the saz4500 i'm sure is powerful enough, to reproduce the low end with force. It's easier to reproduce the low end when the notes are in a loading area prior to you hearing it. Now since there is no loading area, it takes more power to hear it. I am noticing that i gotta crank the Head unit up on my install pretty good before the low end comes alive... then when it's really cranked before i start clipping the amps, .... it's dangerous to the car, let's just put it that way. Thummper would know, lol Since you are not competing, you don't really need to focus on the technical detail of every little thing. Just get u 4 18s rated at 1000wrms per sub, all Dual 2 ohm or 4 single 4 ohm and be done with it. I would choose from any one of these- Fi Q Fi BL FI SSDs (fully loaded) DC Lvl4, XLs are more comp based and not really necessary for you unless u wanna spend the extra money anyway. AQ HDC3s Copper Coil Soundsplinter RL-p RE Audio SX Treo Engineering SSi Pierce Audio WMD Mach5Audio MJ18M (that may be pushin it if u ever try to go balls to the wall with em) Those are your choices that i can think of for the power you have... good luck.

Yea, a buddy of mine owns 2 Adassa Warlords ran off 2 18s. He's scored just over a 155 at the headrest with them.

SPLScion and i share the same car so we work together to overcome these obstacles.

if u need help fitting 4 18s on a baffle, give me the maximum dimensions that i could use on the baffle, the external dimensions, that i can attach the side walls too! If your vehicle contours up higher in the middle, let me know those dimensions, etc... I need dimensions so i can draw a blueprint of it so i can find out how 4 18s would go in your ride.

it's not the load, it's pure power. 4 ohm on that sundown amp would produce the lowest wiring rated output possible.

if u have a decent amount of aH in the back to accommodate your amps, the solenoid rating should only be higher than your ALTERNATOR's output. There would be no reason for a current demand to come from the starting battery when you have batts in the rear. Path of least resistance is used = rear batts. Alternator sends charging current from up front to the rear. As long as this current can safely pass over the solenoid, then that's it. I believe those 500A solenoids which is EXTREMELY overpriced! are worthless. If u need more than 200A of current pass-through, just buy 2 200A solenoids and parallel them together. Do not wire them in series like Stinger told me to do... idiots. to wire solenoids in parallel, the master incoming power cable must be ran to BOTH solenoids and the master cable coming off of the solenoids to the batts must come off of BOTH solenoids or they are not paralleled properly.

u can also add miami and key west to the list. I went down to all of south florida a few months ago to check things out. To live there, haha, that's funny. Key west, simply put, u must be fruity... Miami, seriously, unless you are famous, this place is just too damn ridiculous to live. Too many people, too much traffic, too many expressways, prices too high on everything, too many people, and lets not forget, too many people!

do NOT do that! When i was building my wall, i have a 250A alternator but no battery in the back off of a single 3500w amp, it was causing havoc on my electrical system until i had put batts in the rear next to the amps. Without something next the amps to get immediate power from, you will likely cause a low voltage scenario and you dont want that on a new amp like that.

ur best bet is to wire the BTL in series! That amp you have will output the same power at any load between 1.5-4 ohms. So, wire it in series then hook it back up. You will still be getting the same power output, just safely this time

well, the way u describe this low ohm light, playing below the lowest rated stable ohm load for a given amp can cause immediate damage depending on the power level being created! I'm assuming this is a fast safety option to prevent the amp from overheating due to excessive current output from the amp! It's letting you know stop now... hehe

well then there's your answer. the light only comes on when it makes that sound. Let me show you what is happening- (this isn't drawn perfectly obviously but just follow me) The top graph shows a normal wave in motion The bottom graph is showing what is happening when your amp rapidly shuts off output- When the bottom graph occurs, it isn't allowing the wave to fully finish. when this happens, u get a POP.

no that wont happen. Look at the amp and see if everytime it pops that low ohm light u say thats on there comes on. If it does, it's the amp cutting the sine wave off too early making it reproduce that frequency unevenly.

put it back to 19 when playing that song and watch the sub. Watch the label on the dustcap. If it's bottoming out, it should appear to be moving almost or around 3" peak to peak.

this is what is happening- There is a term called impedance rise. This means that you have your sub wired to 1 ohm which in reality it's probably around 0.7 ohms. During playback of a song, this impedance will change with every note the sub plays back. So when playing bass, each individual note has a different impedance. the impedance will never be as low as it's resting load which is 0.7 ohms for you. So, you have what's called "impedance rise" or just "rise". Everybody has this. However, your problem is there are certain notes that is being played where the "rise" is falling below 1.5 ohms. When this happens, the subwoofer is receiving the most power possible. Now, i dont know how the amp's subsonic is setup or the tuning of the box and NET volume, etc... but there are only 2 things i know fo that would cause it too pop- 1 - bottoming out caused by playback of frequencies far below tuning. 2 - amp is shutting output off in rapid intervals causing the sine wave to whatever frequency is being played to abruptly STOP and not finish it's cycle. to eliminate one of these is easy, you can either use one of your Lifelines which would be a 50/50 , or u can do the following- Play the same song but at a lower volume like 18 and see if it does it. If it doesnt, then slowly turn it up to 19 for about 15 sec, then 20 for 15 sec then 21 for 15 sec then 22 and leave it there. If it does it with more power, then it's bottoming out, if it does it at slightly lower volume, the amp may be rapidly shutting off it's output to prevent failure.

I had to make a new video today. You guys wanna know what it's like to Bassrace with peaks WELL OVER 150dB? Well, this vid will show it- Current metering information- 152.55 at the driver Headrest 155.76 at the Driver Kick Port tuning to achieve numbers - 29hz! This is still an "in progress" build and aren't expected to be done until mid fall, hopefully sooner. The entire windshield is now flexing outwards and has broke the whole upper seal off. I must reseal it soon. The entire top of the car is glass and needs to be reinforced soon as well.

that's a great score for your scenario. You should be able to pull upwards in the 146 area with some fine tuning and box position and in the 48s if u had time to completely rebuild it for comp with proper prior testing. The cavalier that did a 48 in a wall off of 2500w is not that great UNLESS it is also a daily driven vehicle.

virtualdub or virtualmod can acquire your camera

yea that should be fine. Maybe i'lll be doing a little bit louder than a 155.7 in the kick by then.

Yes, you would use this method to find your peak for competition use, but because i describe to test all the way to 100 from 20hz, it's also to show you how your vehicle will respond to basically all the notes your subwoofer may interact with for daily driving so it can be used for both.

Secondskin AbsoluteZero

Let the fighting begin Secondskin Battleshield Secondskin FataliCe

since you have so much room in your trunk, would you like a transmission line enclosure? This will probably take up about the whole trunk or pretty close to it. A transmission line enclosure is a box that is specifically built for the sub's potential, not your personal preference like ported boxes are. A T-line box is a ported box but about 80% of the box is a very long port which is designed to be very smooth and accurate for any type of music. Many people do not do these due to the size of these enclosures if you are wondering. Due to formulas used to calculate these types of boxes, the smaller the sub, the smaller the box and you have a very large space with a smaller sub so it would be a great experience.