shizzzon

if it was my install, i could probably pull low 146s with it on daily tune, 149s pure burp only. If you have no competition experience, don't be disappointed if ur numbers are not this high.

I use Hyperdynamics. Testing around the 140-145db area, my meter was 1.2db lower than a Termlab sensor. I was also told my sensor is more strict than a termlab before i bought it... After 170db, my sensor is suppose to be over 6db lower than a TL. My sensor is rated for precision up to 190db i believe but capable of up to 230db(explosion testing)

Do NOT run it from the rear all the way to the front.

since you verified that the hiss is still there when no rcas are plugged in means that the source of the problem is specifically with the amp or amp's installation and nothing else. Move your ground to a different location. If you have spare time, take amp and sit it on a table next to your car's front battery and run power and ground directly to batt and see if the speakers still hiss... If they do, this proves something is wrong with the amp if u do that test.

hookup rcas that run from a different output from your head unit to the amp. Also, unhook all rcas and see if the noise is still present.

they dont squeal at all. It's just a low hum. Mine sounds somewhere in the high 30db range but no high pitch, just low hum. There's a couple brand names that make them, Stinger and PAC Audio then if u just search for crossflow 12v fans, there's LOTS of overseas manufacturers that make them.

Like this-

just a FYI... how would u know the NET volume if you do not know the port displacement or the sub displacement yet? What is the MAXIMUM external volume i can use. I will use that to design an enclosure. And i also need the ACTUAL dimensions so i know how the subs and port will sit. I design boxes in CAD software so precision specs are necessary.

i dont like to set my equipment selection based on a precise money limit. It may go over or under... dont know til you get goin with the build. The best thing to do is the following- Measure how much room you could possibly use for the subs. I dont care if u get 10,000 cuft... Just because you may think u have too large a room to fill... think again... Base your sub stage plan according to the room available. Once we have that... everything else is mostly downhill.

nope. I talked to a local computer store and they warned me not to do it as these types of fans have strict voltage tolerances. So... i got 2 cross flow blowers... my local car audio shop said these things should move plenty of air.

i hope u guys are right... Silverstone is the only company so far that actually publishes voltage specs for their dc fans and it states that operating voltage shall not exceed 13.2 on some lines and 13.8 on others.

Oh man.. HUGE delays.. What am i gonna do!!!! My Freakin car just Blew UP! What the HELL!!?!?! ... ... ..... Hehe, just playin, i bet i got u goin for a sec there, I got the main flooring done and this wall mounted to the floor so my sundown amp can mount to it. If i work on it any tomorrow... i will be needing to disconnect all current audio equipment and move it to the new floor... then mount the floor.... So, i'm gettin there.

u must check resistance when the amp is OFF. If you are getting 3.5 with the amp off, then u have the sub wired in series. That... or something is very wrong.

My plan is to use 3 fans as a just in case precaution the way how i am making my new floor in my car to house my amps. I will be contacting a couple companies tomorrow but before that time comes, lets see if anyone knows this- Can pc case fans be used in my car? I ask this because of the following- All these case fans i'm looking at are rated as follows- Rated voltage= 12v Starting voltage= 6v (there is only 2 lines on the fan, +12v and -12v so 6v gots me lost... Anyways, i do not know the voltage tolerance of pc case fans... My voltage runs at 14.9v. PSUs typically are set to a max of 10% + or - on any voltage line before they shut down. This means a pc fan could never see anything above 13.2v in a pc.... So... does anyone know if pc case fans accept up to 15v? Tryin to save some money AND shipping time here.

basically, if u have a problem, u can be guaranteed that sundown will get it repaired asap, and u can contact the company directly if any problems. Mainstreamed companies, u can only get ahold of people who have been trained to answer certain questions. With Sundown, u get to talk to the owner,

you would definitely need another battery back there. If u cheap on cash, pick up a deka intimidator. IF u got cash, i suggest a Powermaster XS battery, either the D5100, D2400 or D3100. If you plan not to upgrade alternator, get either the D2400 or D3100. If u get an upgraded alt, u can stick with a D5100. the deka model number is 9A31. high output alt, good ones go for around 500 give or take several bucks. U do not need a fully loaded BTL with 2kw.*** I wouldnt suggest running more than that anyway based upon the questions being asked anyway. ***- but because they are giving away free cooling, i'd go ahead and get that and the Hixmcoil. The inner heat sink is optional if u wanna be able to play in the 70hz range from what i'm gathering according to the description since all my sub setups usually roll off steep in that area.

i went to a local meetup last night to show them the progress and they were all amazed that i chose to run 4 15s in the car. So far i'm right on schedule so sometime be the end of this week, i might\should have some vids.

if it's too good of a price.. well u get what u pay for. my 250A alt retails for $650 so 300A for 475 is a steal. too good to be true. Even if it did work... that's too cheap of a price. Sounds like it wouldnt have adequate cooling for such a cheap price.

if i had a 300A alt, i'd run 2 runs of 1/0 or a single 3/0 run for POWER AND GROUND.

like i promised- Here is a pic of the build right now- I'm getting real close to be being done! Just picked up some Baltic birch i'm gonna use to build my new floor in the back of the car for the amps, fans and batts.

they can but if u plan on running more than 2kw per sub, don't build your box to the maximum recommended size. The more power you have available, make sure you build the box properly. if u want to run them in 20cubes total, i would NOT run more than 2000w per sub, personally, i wouldnt run more than 1700w per sub. If running in 8 cubes per sub, i'd say 2500 sounds good. 5-6 cubes per sub, 3-4kw paying special attention to clipping.

yes they will. the BTL is not a spl only sub so u will be fine. IF you are looking for this type of high powered sub, then there's nothing to worry about. Most subs start to sound bad once they move past their xmax rating and since the BTL has a decent high xmax, nothing to worry about.

check the fuse in your main fuse box and see if the alt turn-on signal fuse is blown. In my car, the fuse rating was 7.5A. IF it is, replace with 10-15A fuse. It's typically necessary to do so with high output alts anyway. If that's not the case, unplug the alt's connector that's going to your factory wire harness and check to make sure all wires inside are properly crimped to the terminals they are in.

i'm gonna have a pic for u guys later on today of what it looks like. The rear chamber has been attached to the baffle now! I am just out there sealing the hell out of it up right now for the next few hrs. I tried to make a design earlier of how i will me making my new floor in my hatch for my amps and batts but for some reason, it failed so i'll try to explain it- If i go with this design, this is how it will be- Layer of floor across ... well the floor. I mount both of my AQ amps side by side each other long-wise, side to side of car but in the middle of the floor. To the right of the amps are both my batts off in their little corner. to the left of the amps is the Sundown 100.4 mounted on a side wall. Above the 2 AQ amps is another floor which is elevated and will span across the area back there so i can still haul things back there. there will be a DC Audio impression in the floor as well lit at night. There will also be 3 fans in line with the AQ amps to ensure they stay cool down there. The floor will be open on both sides but i wanna make sure anyways. Pic to come of the build before 8pm EST today.

yea i dont know whats so hard about painting mdf??? I roll latex paint over it first, then sand down with 150grit. Then i roll again and sand down with 300grit. I usually stop there but u can roll again if u want.