shizzzon

thats gonna be a fantastic amp but 850x4 = $3400. Or you could get only 2 and have 7-7.5kw for $1700. Other choices- 4 AQ 2200ds 2200w@1ohm = $1556 4 AQ 3500ds 3500w@1ohm = $2796 1 Hifonics Maxximus 5000w x 2 @1ohm or 10,000w @1ohm = $1995 These are the cheapest solutions that i know of that can output it's power.

need a price range man. I could start rolling off best bang for buck or the unholy infinite pricing for amps, hehe

Could you explain to me what exactly the Transfer function magnitude tells us? normally, the designs i have done for myself, the graph is always peaking well above 0db right after tuning. The current build i have- 2 AQ HDC3 12s in a 3.8cuft box @38hz- graph goes to +1db peak at 39hz but suddenly rolls off to -3 at 59hz. graph shows -3 below tuning at 34.5hz. The overall listening experience between 30-60hz sounds fantastic. Anything higher than 60hz is pretty weak. Anything below 30hz is almost inaudible. So, with that given, what does Transfer function magnitude tell me and everyone else?

hehe, i already reported it to an admin

Hmm, that may not be good for me. If it takes 7 cubes per 15 just to get flat, then it definitely sounds like the 18s need way more because I don't want my ported box peakin 10hz+ above tuning because my volume is too low.

Sweet man! When u think u gonna have yours done and ready to listen to? I'm aimin around june or july to be done as long as I get my other gear sold. The box I'm using is gonna be sub and port forward. Any excess volume around the front baffle will be sealed off to try and get as little volume to pressurize as possible. Port flowing in between 2 front seats, 26.25" high x 5" wide according to ur recommendation. I'll be running 2 2200w amps on mine

well i already do a 146.8 @34hz with just 2 12s and 4,400w of power, i'm hoping i can break a 150 at a low frequency with these babies if my volume is large enough.

hmm, getting interesting. I'm really interested in the 18s. ICONs do not come in 18s so this is all the possible boxes i have chosen for them- 13.2 cubes NET tuned to 35hz Port area= 158sqin 13.0 cubes NET tuned to 34hz Port area= 158sqin 12.8 cubes NET tuned to 33hz Port area= 158sqin 13.0 cubes NET tuned to 32hz Port area= 144sqin 13.0 cubes NET tuned to 31hz Port area= 138sqin 13.0 cubes NET tuned to 30hz Port area= 131sqin Are any of these box sizes optimal or recommended for 2 Xcon 18s?

if you want to measure the temperature, you need to take the amp apart. That would be like measuring the outside of a pc case and sayin it's only readin 5 degrees above room temp and thinkin you are ok. Same way with the sub. You would need to run a temp sensor up through the vent pole somehow and into the "hottest area" of the design. Preferably, anywhere that will fail first due to heat.

I dont know if i'm askin this too early but since they are available now, what is the box requirements for all XCONs? Also, what is recommended tuning?

unless the majority of your music peaks past 55hz or so... the 10s.

i dont know how to say it so i'll just say it. That's exactly what i need, however, i would need all of my subs sold before i purchase anything. This project isn't suppose to start for another 45 days from now... so unless someone randomly buys all my gear... sorry man, bad timing unless there's a slight slim chance that nobody buys em until then, hehe, then i'll be all over it.

I'm redoin my setup this year and want to see if any of you have any thoughts about my new setup just in case i may have missed a possible setup design.. So, i will hand the specs over to you guys and tell me what you would do with the following- 4,400w of power = 2,200w @1ohm per amp Possible Internal volume = 15.5 Cubes! Displace 1.5-2.00 cubes for port = 13.5-14.0 cubes plus sub displacement. Baffle room - room that is capable of fitting a select number of subwoofers- 16 8s 8 10s 8 12s 4 15s 2 18s (note this is baffle room, you must account for internal required volume for proper suggestion) Price limit - $900 I pretty much already have my mind made up, just wondering if there is anything else out there i may have overlooked. I've narrowed it down to- 2 AQ HD315s or 2 SSA XCON 18s I really like the new XCON look... I can sell both my 15s and both my 12s and get the 2 xcon18s... Basically what i'm tryin to do is surpass 150 on a tone but still capable of doin music in the high 40s to low 50s. I'm hesitant to think my 2 15s can do that in a wall... i know the 18s have more potential... so what would u do or choose?

unless you have personal experience with DD\AQ, that's not a wise recommendation. Tuning below 35hz will result in the mid 40hz range and up to roll off severily losing output. Tuning to 38-40hz will give you awesome all around sound with a consistent "loud" factor down to 32hz and just under 30hz audibly. Tuning to 35hz will give devastating lows down to the mid 20s but will start to lack high end around the 50hz range.

keep it at 38hz if you want loud with good lows. Tune to 35hz if u want devastating lows and "ok" loud in the 40hz range.

I have a question and some other things on my mind about what you say... If you are so obsessed about ultra low loud bass but are afraid of it's output potential due to your power limit you will use, then for one.. Why go sealed? Ported designs are a LOT more efficient than sealed and can destroy a sealed box in low end efficiency as well if you listen to music that doesn't peak below 25hz all the time. So what music do you listen to? If rap or modern rock, it's very rare for these 2 genres to peak below 30hz so i must insist on why not going ported if this is your genre. Also, it's my personal opinion that since Kicker wants their customers to tune their solobarics in the high 30s, 40s or even 50Hz range... Why tune so high? Fi subs may be a better choice for your typical low bass range as they are intended for that purpose.

did it come with a spec sheet saying what it did at all rpms? The actual hot reading? If not, when you get it installed and know it's working, get a BIG load ready for it and clamp ammeter around it's charging cable and let us know what it outputs at 3,000rpm Engine speed. If you have another person there, get him to read the voltage output while doing so. I'm curious how it compared to my alternator.

please do not get earthquake amps. I used to hear way too many horror stories about the 5000w amp an higher... plus they are severily overrated. I'll break it down to ya- Sundown's amps are VERY nice quality. If you have the cash for one, get it as it will last you a very very long time and excellent build quality. You can also go with Audioque amps (www.audioque.com) They have a AQ1200d which does 1470w@1ohm and AQ2200d which does 2200w@1ohm. These amps are built to last as well. They are a LOT cheaper, i would the explanation over to those who are tech savvy in amps explain that to you. I own both companies amps and both are great. Just remember... no Earthquake... You will have an earthquake with there high powered ones then when they go up smoke.. you'll have an aftershock...

well, must not be the subs and since you say you want SPL, i'm betting you are clipping the hell out of the amp. Time to have someone set your amp up right because it's outputting a dirty signal. Also, make sure your subsonic filter is set right or damage will occur as well if using ported boxes. Also, if you got your LPF set over 100hz, you can easily overheat a sub while clipping. Less movement, more clipping, not enough air circulation... Stinky Stink smelly smell...

Turn the car off and check voltage level of batts in the rear. For it to drop so much at idle, it should also drop that low with the vehicle off playing the same song, but with Group 31s, i think that might be a little big of a drop . They may not be completely charged, loose connection as stated above, etc. So, check float while car is off, check voltage at 2.5 - 3k rpm and see what the difference is.

ok, i got the information. Apparently, what i was told was.... W to the R.O.N.G It's stated that a battery can accept any current without failure, it just isn't wise to do it for longevity purposes but i wasn't referencing that aspect of it as a slower trickle charge is required for maximum potential. The REAL worry is this- The alternator should NOT be used as a battery charger. Alternators were not designed to output it's rated output at whatever RPM constantly. For music, it's fine because music is dynamic. Bass tracks are pretty much the same. Now, if you plan on playing test tones for an hour straight... well, that's different. It, again, all comes down to heat generation and can kill an alt if too much exists. Point being, if you have dead or near dead batts or a large enough battery bank that is discharged enough to force the alt to charge for a long time... like a situation where a battery charger would come in handy, this is when not to use the alt to charge! Risk of overheating alternator.

all the talk about voltage spiking... i was never referencing it, i was precisely told over current, never voltage. I'll find out today.

i dont want to drown.... Of course, i'm not the engineer telling you this first hand, but it makes sense. I'll contact Powermaster and ask them if i can send 200A or more to a single battery and see what they say and bring up what you said as i can't argue with it.

Tirefryr, you do make a point about electronics still getting what they need. It gave me an idea. If your alt is too powerful for charging just one battery, create a load that will divert some of the current from the alt to other devices to lower the charging current to the battery.

1- Understood. Simple. 2-3 - The electronics will receive what they need and only what they need. The response to outputting all to one battery is true and i'll give you an example. Lets say you have your batts isolated from one another and you drained your rear batt down to 50% but your starter battery is fully charged. you have a 200A+ alt. You start the car and hit constant engine rpms that make the alt put out the highest possible load it can do... All the remaining power, because i assume approx 60A give or take is being used by the car, will be sent to that batt to charge because... it's low. If it receives too much current at once, it will damage it no questions asked. I've had 2 alt companies tell me this. Excessive current sent to a battery will damage it. Another scenario- Your starter battery dies. You get a jump from somebody but you have a 200A+ H.O. alt. NEVER rev your car up once it's started. Doing so, again, will send excessive current to that battery and can damage it. If all batts are wired in parallel, then yes, sometimes all batts may not be 100% charged but that's not what i'm trying to say. It involves them being isolated as well which makes this scenario happen. I didn't mention isolation before but it's possible. 3- not overcharging, but receiving too much current at once. This is a difference.