shizzzon

how low do you want me to drop the height? At the baffle i'm 0.5" away from hitting headliner but further back down the box i'm 1.5" away from hitting headliner. I will say that by decreasing internal volume like this means that i will need to extend the depth meaning the box will be closer than 8" from the wall. Since you gave some new idea to the design, how close to this wall before you think i would start choking?

I know exactly what you are saying but facing forward is a bad idea as well because it eliminates the loading area. Now, if a wall is built and sealed, then yes, it helps a lot but you must rely on the airspace left to pressurize the volume. My understanding is i wont have a lot of volume anyway after the wall is sealed off and the box is installed as it is. As a matter of fact, i would have almost the same amount of volume left even facing backwards sealed off. the only volume extra i have is the volume where the air flows out of so it's basically better theory-wise. Loading area + low pressure volume

16awg generic wire- 10x at 8" away- 20x at 2.5" away- 50x at 1.25" away- 205x at 1.25" away- NOTE - i measured 3\4" wide for just 1 single Wire thread at 205x!

You guys are gonna love this! I got this new microscope so i can do very fine and precise electronic repair. 3-4x magnifiers are pathetic for the work i'm talking about. I'm about to upload some pics for you guys so u can see what i'm talkin about.. I'll post specs about the distance and magnification strength by each pic showing how awesome of a scope this baby is... Oh, and you can get your own with a full flex stand as well... just search on ebay for 200x usb microscope. The strength is actually 211x but anyways, i'm gonna start takin some pics of it's strength- TEST SUBJECT - Speaker Wire

ur right, i switched to google maps from within google earth pro... that's so stupid.

i had google earth for some time and i remember where it would show street views in front of a house... I upgraded to google earth pro several months ago and there are NO street views anywhere?!?! Anyone else notice this... the free version has more info than the pro version?

Here is estimate, almost drawn to scale pics of box design- The wall in front of the box WILL BE filled all around with triple expanding foam. also, if you notice how the side of this box matches the width of the wall... Well, it may in the car but the side of the box does not meet the side of the CAR! Remember that. The car gets wider so the box doesnt fill the entire width of the car. The car is actually over 48" wide inside and the bottom of this box is 44", the top is 33" There would be 8" from the subs\port to the wall giving enough breathing room I would expect.

Yea, i know the wall needs to be braced very good! It will be all-threaded along with the speaker box, no worries. I have autocad but never got far enough to do 3d. I'll get sketchup and see what happens.

I do in the mid 146s @34hz and 42hz. Box is tund to 38hz. Phi will back me up on it that is a member here. I'm sure bigjons ride is right up there is not louder than mine... or is it, we dont know... Anyways, when it gets to a point to where u gotta turn it down before you can even reach a full 60 seconds on a song, that's where the daily driver reaches it's pleasure peak. When you can't even listen to a song without clinching your teeth and\or looking like you just ate a lemon... that's ridiculous... I am the first one... tryin for the 2nd version.

i cant, i've already tried. It has to be a 3d design to understand.

This is a goal to reach 150db tuned for a daily driver. I've been doin some measurements and have came up with a box design that has me smiling and this will be the last box i will build for the car... unless i downgrade later. This is my last attempt to try and reach 150db with a daily tuned setup and i'm crossin my fingers because this is only with 2 15s and 4,400w of power. Here is the wild design- Remove back seats, where back seat was, install a wall there sealed off from the hatch area. Now, i have 33" of depth from this wall to the back of the front seats. The box design would consist of 2 15s ported facing toward the wall. There is an 8" gap from the front baffle to the wall. Both subs and port face the Sealed Wall. This 8" gap acts as a loading area. The output would then be dispersed around both sides of the box through tunnels consisting of 5.5" wide per side and approximately 9" tall at the beginning and then dispersing everywhere by the time it's halfway down both sides of the box. The top of the box does NOT touch headliner... it's close, probably 0.5" in some areas and 1.5" away in other areas. I'm debating whether i should allow the air to only flow around the sides of the box or the itty bitty ass opening at the top of the box. the box is 33" wide. It gets 44" wide toward the bottom to increase internal volume properly. Because it gets wider, this is why the air flow around the box isn't simple as you can see. I should have the best of both worlds correct? A smaller cabin to pressurize and a loading area on top of that. Box would be 9.0cuft tuned to 40hz using 2 Original AQ HD315s with 154sqin of port and 4,400w of power.

It depends on power and tuning. If you use a 1200d, then you will get filled with awesome sound quality from the HDC3s.(copper coil) However, if you want to go more power, it will throw it out of it's xmax and into it's 3" Xmech rating. I've done test tones slowly which pulls it out of xmax and into pure xmech and i know what it sounds like. If you want that much power to a sub, then you know what to expect, Pure Brutal Force. It's recommended to tune to 40hz because due to it's long excursion capability, it can still attain good output down to the high 20hz range. If you tune it at 35hz, it will give you deadly, destructive low end like you wouldnt believe but the upper range starting around 42hz on up would be somewhat pathetic.

cant clearly give you an exact answer but if you keep em charged with the right size alternator, you should easily get around 10yrs out of em I would assume.

no, they will eventually die... that's why autozone sells batteries... gonna need em eventually. testing float voltage alone wont tell u if a battery is 100% or near 100% operational. It has to simulate a load and then you meter it while it's "recovering" to see how well it recovers. Also, you can put the battery on a trickle charger and charge it all the way up. Test the voltage when it's done charging and test again approximately 12hrs later. IF the voltage has dropped below it's normal float... then it's bad too. As you can see, only way to tell is to have it tested or test it yourself so unless the person SPECIFICALLY has done this, you wouldnt know.

sorry, still havent got any pics or anything yet, been raining forever. If i dont get anything today, the next time i have is wednesday then it's gonna rain for a week straight so i'll see what happens.

Possible but you better have alt knowledge when requesting such project to be done because some companies will only add more wire without taking into consideration the heat it will produce and will charge you just as much as a company who would do it right.

Where did u find how much the 8800w amp cost?

yea i know, plus they say the response is 20-55hz... There is several unknowns about their equipment, that's why i think it's all typos because it doesnt make any sense.

Apparently, this company isolates all of their sales to Las Vegas only... Their website is still being updated so they may be a brand new company but they only have 1 dealer and that's in Vegas. Their dealer don't even have the 8,800w amp which is weird but they do have their 4,600w amp. They want $3,000 for it!

OK if you do this, you must follow this- You must place a fuse block right next to each battery OR use a FUSED distribution block and have the block no further than 12" from each battery. This method would probably only work with a stock alternator. Pulling current and pushing charging current through the same block will definitely test the limits of the fuses. I'd still advise to only use fuses that match the amps used. Do not add additional fusing strength to compensate for the alternator.

if only running one of the two rcas, you half the signal voltage going to your amp so in theory, you would have to increase the gain on the amp a lot higher. Why would it be set like that anyway?

I checked, your amp DOES have a subsonic filter so make sure it's set properly first. The "smell" could very well be caused from unloading and i havent seen you mention that yet so that's one thing to inspect. 2nd, i'm never a fan of tuning by ear. Sure, you can tune by ear by using a song or whatever you use but different audio tracks are recorded differently, some peak higher than others. If you o-scope an amp with test tones recorded in between 0 - -3db that it would be perfect tracks to use to setup an amp.

ooh, that isnt the amp that i think it is... is it? Do you have your sub in a sealed box? If that's the amp i'm thinking of. that amp doesn't have a subsonic filter on it so tell me... are you sealed or ported?

tc requires coil overs only or air ride. air ride= $5,000 coil overs = $1,500 better option- move the majority of the weight to the rear cabin area to distribute the weight better. Cost = free.

yea ur right. It looks like chaos back there because i have decided not to finish the cosmetics of it but yea i'll do it. Probably this Saturday or Sunday you guys will see some scary pics, hehe