shizzzon

I already made this announcement in person to friends, but if something else happens with these amps that is out of my control... i'm changing equipment. I have been driving 400lbs of paper weight for about a month and am already gonna miss the Street Warriors show tomorrow.... As long as they work this time it's all good. I got enough money to buy whatever so if i have to, i'll go crazy over some sundowns if i have to but this topic isn't about sundown so don't get carried away, Wanna hear somethin funny? I'm such a bass fiend that i have not been completely depressed over no bass since the car show is tomorrow, all kinds of vehicles that i drive with to and from work are jammin their setups everyday so i got some sort of bass with me, hehe, just nothing i can actually hear in terms of what's playin over there.... but i'll get mine soon enough.

Well, instead of posting all this in the build log, i'll just post it here because i have a question anyways. I have\had 2 of these amps strapped together. When i first strapped them up, after several minutes, the slave went up in smoke. It was concluded that the input stage on the amp got damaged. There was no audio coming through either amp when i first tried using these. I tried using just the master. No signal at the time until i unplugged the rcas from the HU then plugged em back in... been working ever since, odd but no probs now. Got the slave amp back in and i did not have any subs hooked up to em when i had em strapped again but the slave amp went up in smoke in 4-6 seconds. The New diagnosis for this problem just came in It is concluded that the slave amp went up this time because a toroid shorted out. The manufacturer was not given an opinion of the problem meaning that the repair company did not make claims in facts as to how it happened but because the amp had been in repair before, they decided to blame it on the previous problem just for the sake of customer service. Now my question is, under what you now know what this amp has been through, what would you think might cause a toroid to short? Shipping damages? previous damages or somethin else?

Oh I build everything, nobody builds or repairs any of my pcs but me. Here is the purpose behind this build- I run 2 pcs 24/7 nonstop side by side and 1 laptop when those pcs are maxed out processing-wise. None of these pcs are suited for newer games. What I mean by that is I can't even play call of duty 3 at 30fps near the end, it drops to 7fps. I never wanted to supe it back up nor build just a gaming pc because I got a Wii but if I want a HTPC then I might as well make sure it can play games too or I might as well just buy a bluray palyer, know what I mean? Ok now to your qestions- 1- I build.everything myself. 2- as long as the cpu, case and psu fans are quieter than the HDDs and optical drive then I'm fine with it. 3- games? I don't or am not eager to play games on it BUT DO want to have the capability and upgradeability for a long time to come. This is why I was interested in mobos that support 2 or 4 video cards and up to quadcore chips. 4- TV I currently use a 51" 540p HDTV. I sit 8-10ft from it. I will be purchasing either a new 26" lcd for 450 or a new 28" for 540 for my current dual pc setup. Whichever one I choose are both 1080p so I can use it for HD experience. Once I ever replace the 51" I will most likely go with a 50-60" range 1080p or 1600p tv depending on when I buy.

oh i repair and build pcs but i just havent been in the newest realm fo technology lately because i don't need to until i started thinkin about this again. I have heard to playback HD video that i need a minimum of a dual core system... I don't know exactly why though? Is it because of what u say, one processor for video, the other for windows? Is HD that demanding? Quadcore chips arent expensive. I can get the quad 2.4 with 8mb of L2 retail for $208. If you have experience with multi core chips then you can help me understand them better, For one, why is it that HD playback required dual core minimum? 2 - with multi core, does the system itself choose what core to use to process information? IE - watching a movie, system tells it to use core A, running AutoCAD and rendering graphics would use core B, etc... does it go the most efficient way? 3 - when multiple cores are used, what controls what core processes what... the OS or the motherboard. 4 - the OS really doesn't matter since the cases from TT come with Medialab that is a new shell basically just for media. If i didn't like it, i can use others made for carputers. And, i WILL be using a TV, no monitor. I want this thing to be as real as expected. Nah, i customized that alienware box and it came out to be $2199, hehe, and i priced my design at being ~$1,500 with a LOT more than what they offered because i can get things a lot cheaper than what they charge. One thing that was interesting is that ASUS has some boards now that bootup in 5 seconds flat into a multimedia environment... but i don't know if it's some cheesy layout, i'm assuming it is but could be wrong. If it's better to boot directly up to windows, what type of BIOS or hardware would yield the quickest bootup times? Here is a list of things that i know that slows bootup- Ethernet - during Windows loading screen, it will look for a connected internet service if you have ethernet capabilities. What i do not know is if you disable on board LAN and use onboard WiFi if it still slows bootup, anyone? BIOS - set quick POST and disable search for any hardware that you either do not have or do not need verified during each bootup. What BIOS boots up hellafast or what boards do? Does RAIDing 2 HDDs together for faster performance speedup bootup time? Anything that will speed it up? Any Registry tweaks or *.ini files i can edit out contents or remove checks to speed up bootup?

to do circle cut outs, you need a circle jig. go to www.partsexpress.com they have some.

impedance rise shouldnt be the same at different power levels. At a lower level, the rise should be greater.

no dont measure peak. The peak values will not be taken at the exact same time! When resistance rises, the voltage will too. When resistance is lower, the amps go up. What you need to do is hook it back up, do not hold peak or get their values. Start your burp and wait until both meters level out. What i mean by that is wait until the numbers stop changing rapidly and start staying consistent. At this point, visually record both the volts and amps and write em down.

I've always thought about doin this so i don't have to keep replacing dvd players to hd players to blu ray players to whatever else comes out next. The capability of playing back movies on a pc that only needs the right ROM drive is cheaper than buying a whole new home unit. Plus the fact that the home theater pc can do a LOT more things than a home unit player can. I want some people's feedback on some features that they think would be cool or necessary to make it perfect for using it as intended. Thermaltake is pretty set on home theater cases. Gotta have a remote with a readable screen on front. Without that, it's a pain in the ass. So other words- it has to look just like a typical dvd player- readable lcd screen with controls on the front and remote. Thermaltake makes units like this so that's covered. It also has to accept All forms of video playback via disc which is easy as there are drives out there that can now for pcs. Next - there are motherboards out there that will let you playback music from a disc without even turning the pc on! I can't remember the feature but i know ASUS has it on some of their boards so i know i can find that technology. Motherboard-wise, is there any other feature required to get this thing workin perfect? I know for HD video, i will need dual core system so for longterm durability, i was thinkin about using a Quad-Core setup so i don't have to worry bout it slowin down on me. If this can playback HD video, it'd be nice to play PC games as well. So.. i was also thinkin about getting a motherboard that accepts quad-core and dual vid cards. that way the ability to run 1 card or 2 lower end cards can help keep the setup lasting longer preventing it from being labeled as "old" as quick. Thermaltake's cases come with Medialab so it's ready to do all the movies\music and whatever else there is. The system needs to be able to playback IPODs... Does anyone know of hardware\software that can instantly control an IPOD? I dont know how this would work on a home theater pc? Must have media card reader for access to songs from there as well. These chassis have front USB ports so other mp3 players can hook up to them as well. Quad-core pc would need a silenced cooling solution. I don't keep up with tech everyday but i do remember seein some of thermaltakes heat-piped heatsinks effective enough to be used without a fan. Do not know if they work with quadcore or not but if they dont, i'm sure i can find a quiet fan for the heatpipes. Anything else anyone can think of? Probably RAID 2 SATAIIs together for faster performance. TV Tuner card. Maybe if SSD drives ever come down, i'll use one of those for the main drive and all SATAIIs for AUX drives used for tv capturing.

Hey, can you PLEASE force this statement into everyone's head who thinks otherwise. I got tired of tryin to explain the way extra batts work in a vehicle and what all u need for a long term durable setup... Maybe you can be the next teacher for this topic for a while, hehe

As for what i believe, i don't think the end is that soon at all. What i do believe if any according to predictions and some factual evidence from researchers rather than prophecies is that something is gonna happen in between 2011-2013. Something different that doesn't happen normally. It could be anything really, it could be a natural disaster, nothing that would kill us all but somethin along those lines or just something that doesnt effect us at all might happen. IT's just interesting that this timeline has more things happening from all different points of view than just some predictions.

Only thing he knows about them, is how to make them go *poof*. He's blown two of them. Haha, i laughed when i read that. Yea guys, it's not really time to ask me anything about these amps yet since they've been in and out of my hands for about a month so i don't know a lot about them. This is the only thing i can tell you if anybody wants anything from my own experience- The AQ2200D is rated to do 700w @4ohm 14.4v I was able to get it to do 408w @5.39 ohms 13.2v I am assuming that's pretty much right on target. When i do finally get these amps back which is next week, Yea!!!, i am only going to test the amps strapped. I am tired of waiting for these amps so the tests are going to be compared to a strapped pair of SAZ-1500ds since that's what this thread is debatin. I'll make a whole other topic about this so people can find it easier.

me personally wouldnt buy a mechanical hard drive that either is refurbished or doesn't come with a warranty of less than 2yrs. Most of my drives die between 10-24months because i use the hell out of em so i can get em replaced for free. Mechanical devices will fail and i've been through enough failed drives to not want to look at another pc again... so i have 9 drives right now. Some are still IDE so when they die it's all SATAII until SSD comes down in price.

it will bottleneck a system if it can't be recharged fast enough

This came from another site- If one has to pick a year for extinction, the most likely year is 2126. At this time a comet (named the "Swift-Turtle"), which is the same weight (a trillion tons) as the asteroid that caused the mass extinction 65 million years ago, will pass the Earth's orbit at a point at which (if present calculations are right) the earth will be only two weeks distant. If the present calculations are wrong or if causal factors slightly affect the Swift-Turtle, the comet could crash into the earth, causing the 6th mass extinction. So, apparently, i have gotten that comet mixed up with something else that is 3x larger than jupiter. I cant remember and dont feel like readin all that info again, hehe, but somewhere in that site someone predicted something coming at us but not hitting us as to speak. I cant even remember when the prediction was made. It's been several yrs ago since i got really involved with that site then someone i know brought it up recently and i dug it up and it is somewhat refreshing my memory. Something interesting that sparks my interest that i tell people is all of this stuff happens weather-wise or space-wise but... what happens here on earth when all this is about to take place? Again, if all is true, it's quite interesting that the end of the 1st presidential term is right in that timeframe (dec 21 2012). Is the next president elected to blame for somethings that may be catastrophic that is going to happen on this planet that may not be mentioned in doing research? Can things be slowed down but rather dismissed? Quite interesting.

MikeS - that's when a cap can make a difference! I strongly believe that a cap can not be a battery replacement unless the cap is so ungodly large that it takes forever to discharge. You should only use a cap if your electrical system is in top notch shape. At that time, using a cap will give you that extra bit of power for fast responsive bass notes that you wont get from an alt or battery. Competitions - caps can be a major plus as they can discharge so fast. If you want the most out of your system, caps can help but only if your electrical system is ready and audibly, i dont even know if it's worth it.

What is everyone's thoughts about the 2011-2013 timeline? In case you have no idea what i am referring to, please do your own research so you have your own opinion about the year 2012, Dec 21. A good place to start is - http://www.diagnosis2012.co.uk/1.htm Not only is there predictions but some actual facts about severe environmental conditions that will change this world forever including us loosing the electromagnetic field that protects us, the sun getting hotter, the Comet Swift-Turtle which has been confirmed by NASA to appear once again in our solar system which is 3x the size of Jupiter which is headed for us in the end of 2012. I don't believe it is predicted to hit us but it's passing can\could cause major damage to earth. The word Annihilation is brought up more than once... I don't expect it to be the end as neither do a lot of others either. This is suppose to be a change, a Major shift point in our history. The real question is what will happen? We are due for an ice age, the Mayan Calendar ends in that yea, scientists say that we are about to enter the fourth density at the end of that year which in what they say- "Laws of Physics will be transformed forever." Like many others, the end has been predicted a LOT and of course has never been right but what if a list of things were presented to you that stated that the end is not being predicted here and not by a prophecy but a multitude of things including FACTS from NASA, scientists, nuclear physicist(if you read the entire website above) that many things ALL point to the end of 2012 as something bad or major happening. They reference the "Second Coming". Christians believe the "Second Coming" is a being returning to Earth when in fact scientists state that different religions will alter what the future has in store for us to come... The "Second Coming" is not to be interpreted as a being returning but as a "State of Being" coming or returning when that time has come. State of being is a shift point on Earth. I can type and type and type about this forever but that website has a LOT of info about it. Don't just stick to one site such as that, keep searching. Even the Philadelphia Experiment, Montank Project are involved which include references to the "greys", a VERY interesting read and if it's true, it's gonna be a wild world soon.

so u say the power wire touched the ground wire? Do you have a fuse on the power wire? Do you have fuses on the amp itself? Now the stereo won't come on? Did the remote wire interfere with this spark because it's not stated if it did. Pull the stereo out and check all of it's fuses, internal, power and ignition.

well, he's tried the problem amp on a power supply and same thing happened. And i also believe he said he tried another 3000d in his car and same thing happened... I'd be interested in hearing about taking one of these amps, hookin it up to a power supply, then to his car, then back to the power supply. Wondering if something in his car is damaging the amps.

if u cant never get it to work off of your head unit, you can always use the ignition wire as your turn on lead for the amp. Only thing about that is if the stereo wasnt on, the amp would be just sittin there. They dont draw much at idle. Most amps at idle are around 1-2A draw.

i generated a 50hz tone. i input that tone into Audacity, it says peak is 50hz, so that's normal. I own a Creative Audigy Platinum Sound Card. I then Opened the Creative Recorder. I set the recording level to be what looks like 75% which shows it will clip if i leave it there. It's set to record "What U Hear". Update- I just redid the test and now the recorded track now reads 50hz peaking... odd. I dont know... maybe i generated a 39hz clip and thought i was usin 50... who knows. Well, nvm now, hehe

that's not enough for that amp... but if his alt is strong enough to run the majority of that amp, then it isn't that much of a worry.

I was wondering if anyone would know why this happened- I was foolin around with Audacity the other day and generated a 50hz tone. I then took an audio recording program and for fun was wondering if recording a playing test tone, if the recording would be clipped or not. Well, the recording was heavily clipped.... but also recorded something different. My course was a non clipped (0db) 50hz tone. The recorded sample was a clipped 39hz tone.... how?

I said that statement. Reason why i stated it is simply because if that has partially damaged the amp, then you can see why the protect light may be malfunctioned. I'm not stating that's what happened but until the amp gets tested, we can make speculations until the truth is found.

When you modify bass tracks that are sold in stores to peak and work specifically for your install so when demo-ing, every track is designed just for your ride. When you carry with you Db Meter, o-scope and DMMs.... just in case you need to diagnose somethin on the move.

you dont need to know really. Go to Newegg, you can find some decent brands rated in the 300-400w range that should definitely be enough to get that thing goin. They only range in the $40 range for aftermarket PSUs. The original PSU is 180w by the way. I'd personally get a larger output one since it will put less stress on the PSU itself AND give you the option to upgrade in the future. If you tried installing extra things in there, that's one way to kill the PSU months down the road. The OEM replacement is $35 + shipping so gettin one twice the rating for bout the exact same price is definitely worth it. Your required PSU needs to be Micro-ATX and MAKE SURE that the new PSU you plan on buying looks identical in shape and form as the damaged one does on the back(part you plug the power cord in at.) Pretty much, as long as it's Micro-ATX and the power cord is on same side as the old one, it will fit perfectly.