shizzzon

i typed it right, the board changes it. I don't make typos that bad, lol.. and consistently at that. i know nothing of the coding language but the error says client. If there's a client, there's also a server. But i don't run this site so i do not know exactly how it's setup. The server for the coding language could be hosted at the same place as the company who hosts this site. It could be an add-on feature. This site's owner would just have the client to custom his own choices. Something goes wrong, either coding, or maybe the server. I know i said the client above may be the culprit but i meant the client could be when it comes to coding. The server would have to crash but if that happened, surely there would be a different error message other than blaming the client, hehe.

there's nothing we can do as members. an IPS error involves the forum itself which is powered by Invision but i do not think Invision's scripting is to blame for this problem. The error keeps referring to the MyLSQ client... So, whoever runs this website, , they need to see if they can troubleshoot this on their end via the MyLSQ client. If they cannot, they will have to contact the server administrator(s) and have them fix it or walk him through it. It can be as easy as the client just crashed and needs to be restarted... it's nothing major.

yea it's not that because i've tried 2 different browsers, one of which hadn't ever been used yet until now.

dont u know it, i've always said their 1000w power rating is a joke. What do you think DJ said when he seen an order for 2 of these and 2 of his 2200w amps? I can't remember exactly but i now on the phone he said these things will be performing at their best for copper coils power-wise for daily. I could have went up to 3kw per sub but not all day, just for brief periods. I'd rather be able to play loud at any time for any duration rather than monitor heat all the time. Just bought me a tennis racket and gun for my Wii, I know.. that has nothing to do with the build, hehe, but it passes time when i can't work on the car.

i'm pretty sure i am as well. I gotta call Powermaster tomorrow to make sure everything will fit with my install. If it will, then i'll have a D3100 and 2 D5100s

ok, so just the right size for a battery terminal to fit. ok thanks, gotta go do some planning.

better too long than too short.

seriously, i think 2 hc2400s with a 300A alt should do it for ya on an average level. 3 hc2400s would put you above recommendation for batteries.

would you know by any chance the length of them? Also when u say bolts, u refer to allthread, correct? they dont actually have a head on them do they or if they do, is it the same width as the thread itself?

check out www.db-r.com He is certified to sell refurb-ed sundown amps. A lot of us have done business with him, excel over excellent in customer service and work.

Welcome! 1 HC2400.. that's it? MAn! I'm about to install about 5kw in mine and plannin on running 1 of those plus 2 more kinetiks and 300A alt.

well, was messin around in the car today just lookin at what my car looks like before i change it, hehe. I grabbed all the pieces of the box that i cut and clamped them all together and put it in the car so i can get a REAL measure of just how much room i have for batts. Surprisingly i have a little more room than expected. OH, and when i closed the hatch door and got inside to look at it... My face just lit up with the smile of the Grinch, This enclosure fits this hatchback perfectly! The amps are timely theft proof but i would be kinda stupid to say why but anyways, the reason why i posted this is this- I am going on 2 weeks vacation starting after i get off work on May 16th which is Friday. I REALLY REALLY REALLY want to get this whole install done sometime while i am on vacation. I need people's feedback to get this project rollin without anymore obstacles! For one- Powermaster users- What kind of terminal posts are on Powermasters? Are they removable like Kinetik's or are they permanently installed? If they are permanently installed, then how tall are they because pics of them look like they are only 1\4" which isn't tall enough for anything! 2nd - does powermaster offer side post brackets and if not, will kinetik side posts work(the powermaster terminal must be removable)? And finally- If i have this massive battery bank in the rear, what is the likelyhood that current draw will also be pulled from the starting battery? A lot of people say it won't but some say maybe... What's the point of an isolator? See my point of confusion...

in the higher end, let's say 50 and up, tuning that low will cause the sub to heat up quicker in my experience. When i've tuned in what exactly u say, high 20s low 30s, the resistance rise in the 30-45hz area is at least double it's DCR. Now, after 50hz, resistance rise starts to heavily drop(i know this is enclosure dependent but this happened in more than 1 enclosure as well) which increases power output from amp. When the sub(s) tend to play these higher notes tuned that low, they don't move that much but are accepting a ton load of power, a lot more than what they were getting in the 30s and 40s for sure. So less movement, more power, more heat buildup. All it takes is for the user to start clippin his amp just showin off and there goes the thermal limits of the sub in a matter of minutes.. or maybe even seconds. Now, when you say use signal processing to help the higher end? What exactly do you mean by help? Attenuating perhaps?

i didn't have that feature with my previous installs, it was just all or nuthin, hehe I got some with my new install though. I don't know how loud 4,900w really is so i got remote gain controls up front for all amps.

and to answer your curiosity anyways- .75 could\can produce some lows but 1-1.25 would have done it a lot better. Myself personally, i've personally owned some low tunes enclosures that were just crazy to me. The last setup i had, i metered 144.3 at 31hz, that setup was the ungodly but lacked anything over 50hz. Those types of installs started ruining my cars. Tuning that low is\was fun and all but i have a new car now, an 07. I wouldnt want it to start going downhill just because of my choice of tuning. I love lows, don't get me wrong but i just don't want to love them strictly anymore. My next setup is going to be tuned to 38hz and i will be able to get down to the low 30s, not with force i'm assuming but audible to say the least. I'm after more of the 40hz area now so i can have the loud effect and still enjoy the music that I listen to that goes down to the low 30s without all that destruction that comes with it.

i'm not familiar with how to calculate port area for aero ports but i do know that if it were just a regular 6" pipe, that surface area would only be good enough for 1 12" and that's bare minimum requirement at that.

I'm seein if i can save money but if i cant oh well.... This is for 2 AQ2200ds(200A per) and a sundown 100.4(90A rated about 65A used) Here are choices - Kinetik (i might go with powermaster but prices are bout the same so this is just the sake of kinetik) setup 1- 1 HC2400 (128aH) 2 HC800s (72aH total) Price - $632 setup 2- 3 HC1400s (180aH total) Price - $695 setup 3- 1 HC2400 (128aH) 2 HC1400s (120aH total) Price - $799 Kinetik has told me that their HC800 will give more impact than their batts above that model number meaning quicker discharge, like a cap. A while back, i emailed them requesting their suggestion for a 3,000w setup but obviously i've gone bigger, hehe. They said for 3,000w, they suggest 1 HC2400 and 1 HC600(20aH) for each amp. This would give power AND impact. They said i could also have went with just HC600s... They said it would be great impact but wouldnt last as long... because 5 hc600s is only 100aH. So... what do you guys think? For the time being, it will be off of a 100A alt, stock alt but will never be cranked because i know that won't last... Eventually the 300A alt will be in there. Rated for 140A at idle and 300A at max.

exactly.

exactly, i can understand why he says that. A lot of HO type alts run at minimum of 14.4v then of course if u have externally regulated alts, it's up to you how much you want to have. 14.3v isn't fair, in my opinion, for an upgrade and can see why people would have problems. Powermasters can accept up to 15.0v according to their site so that's a lot more convenient.

not if the rca's are shielded you won't. It's best practice to do that but sometimes it's impossible and those are times where shielded rcas come into play.

but what if we had 2 different subs with the same Fs and installed in the same box tuned to the same note? I'm gonna say higher linear excursion also helps but i do not think going by excursion alone can make a final decision.

It's highly unlikely it has anything to do with his alt. I'm assuming it's just that his alt may produce a higher voltage than others without modding anything.

the funny thing is by setting your gain with dmm and listening for clipping, just 1 note isnt gonna cut it. What if the resistance at 50hz was as close to 2 ohms as you are gonna get. Different frequencies have different rise outputting different power. Also, the higher the resistance is, the higher the voltage will be. So, for example, if u had 55v and 14a when measured at 4ohms after rise, that would be - 770w But at the same time, if u measured at 36hz, it might have been 48v and 20a after rise at 2.4ohms which would be - 960w These arent real numbers BUT can be. That's why setting an amp up with dmm isn't accurate. For companies like JL audio and JBL amps that use crown technology and some Phoenix Gold amps, you can do this because of varying acceptable resistances all output same power.

Well see i dont know I was just about to post it's ok for a stock alt but..... that might be correct for older cars... These newer cars like mine, the ECU controls the alt so I can't just say yes or no. But, i can tell you this to help you find the answer quick and easy- Have something in your car that pulls a big load, such as an aftermarket stereo system. Play a test tone at fill tilt. Get a DMM and measure the voltage at the battery terminal on starting battery before the test tone plays, then while it is playing, then about 30 seconds after the test tone is done and ALL loads have ceased. See what your voltage reads during all those. IF it's ever over 14.3v, it's not a good choice to go with a kinetik in that install. Same thing goes with batts in the rear. People have an advantage because there is voltage drop. How much? you must measure and see. I'm gonna be hookin my 3/0 wire up in a couple of weeks and when i do, i'm gonna measure voltage drop from front to rear so i know what product will work best for me.

Well, i just spent the last few days researchin this myth of Iraggi alts and kinetik batts dont go together... That sounds stupid, i know, but people have problems so i decided to try and find the answer. What i have found is interesting if you didn't know so hopefully this will help those that already have their batts and those planning on purchasing as well. A long time ago in China there was..... Oh oops, wrong story. Ok, here is the theoretical problem- Kinetik batts are only capable of accepting voltages up to 14.3v MAX Voltages above 14.3v can only be done in quick spurts. Kinetik told me that anything over 3-4hrs of constant voltage higher than 14.3v will lead to permanent damage. The battery will begin to swell then start damaging cells. When this happens, the battery will no longer be able to hold a charge. So that means if you got any Kinetik batts that can't hold a charge, this may be what happened to you. I can see this being a REAL bad problem for those who have or are deciding to replace your starting battery with one of these. Now, for those who have them in the rear, due to voltage drop, depending on how bad it is, the worse the better... to a degree of course. If your alt charges these batts over 14.3v briefly, maybe just for 10-15min trips for example, in the long run, the battery will still fail.