shizzzon

I'll see what i can find if u can wait for a few min-few hrs. I know baffle-wise, you can fit 11 8's, 7 10s, 5 12s. Volume-wise, i'm about to research it. Oh and i just looked, i seriously doubt you can fit 3 15s. The outer rim on the 3rd 15 hangs over both the top and side of the box making it impossible to screw down.

it could have ejected the wire too if it was not tight enough! A long time ago, before i knew what i was doing, i had a class d amp go into protection due to the power slipping out of the terminal... When i checked to see what happened because this happened while driving, this is what i saw- Burn marks all around the power terminal which means the wire had arced all around on it's way out. But the most shocking thing is 2 of 3 fuses in the amp got shot out of the amp! I'll never forget that.

I have never liked BP designs for daily use... How are you gonna get the subs out or what if something simple happened inside and needed a fix... there goes the box. Also, that box looks way to complicated for it's purpose. I still don't see an acceptable reason for slanting the subs baffle when he supposedly clearly said it is not a good idea. Maybe this design isnt a good idea? I can see you just runnin a flat wall from left to right or it won't fit, do a tunnel design like Meade did. He isn't the only one who has done that either. I remember seeing one truck with 8 12" XXXs in it like that, all in the bed of course. You can easily get to your subs if need be too.

it is a scion tc. Hatchback style vehicle. In that test i did, i temporarily sealed off any way to fill additional volume behind the front baffle making the remaining volume considerably less. Box was tuned to peak at 36hz sitting right behind rear seat with seat folded down. Tested on both driver and passenger side with same results.

and expensive ones give you destruction.

that's what i use... although mine is massive.

i missed that part. IS everything ran through the same turn on wire and if it is what wire is that?

When i did testing with my meter in my car, every position i tested(24 different) except for one was it louder on the mic with windows down. The position that was actually louder with everything sealed up and shut was subs forward\port forward.

go to Stinger's website. I believe they have a device used to fix that. If they don't, just search on a car audio site for anti-thump or thump delay or turn off delay.

the box really is recommended to be around 20cubes! Jesus! For port- you can use 2 6" inner diameter ports 21.6" long per port. Or, you can use 56.5sq in of port.

Well, lookin at your box specs- Tell whoever is doin the box for ya to tune it at 32hz and use at least 42sqin of port but do not allow the port to take up more than 0.8 cubes of displacement. That box internally is 4cuft gross. I don't think that 15 is recommended to be put in a box smaller than 3 NET

You are WAY WRONG!!! It takes 29 seconds... God! get it right people!

Ok, if you like low bass, tune in between 30-32hz. If you like hard hittin bass with a little less destructive low bass, tune between 34-37hz(the higher you go, the less low end response). cuft per sub- You have a box, let's say it's 6 cu. ft externally measured. Internally, it's a whole different story. Internally, it may only be 5.5cuft. But then you must subtract the volume that the sub displaces. This may bring it down to 5.3 cuft. Now you must subtract the volume that the port takes up. That may be 1 whole cuft. So now you would be at 4.3 cuft internal but 6 cuft external. In that example, 6 cuft is known as the external dimensions. 5.5 cuft is known as the GROSS internal volume. 4.3 cuft is known as the NET internal volume. If you ever seen anyone mention GROSS or NET, 99.9% of the time they are referring to INTERNAL dimensions. Gross is before sub and port displacement. Net is after all displacements have been subtracted from Gross. Separate or common chamber- For you, you will NOT have separate. But the difference is this- Let's say you wanted to run 4 subs. You could do a separate chambered box- Each sub has it's own enclosed space... Or you could do a common chambered box- All subs share the same enclosed space... Pros to common chamber - highly less potential to inaccurately calculate box measurements which could throw off tuning of the other subs(separate chamber has this possibility a lot more), gain more internal volume. Cons to common chamber - more bracing is needed and if one sub fails, the remaining subs are now forced to play in a larger enclosure because one sub is not displacing part of the volume inside the box anymore causing the other subs to mechanically become more stressed. This is not a problem if you know what you are doing though.

You guys are gonna have to bear with me... As some of you may know, i'm still fighting this damn abdominal pain issue that nobody as of yet knows what's wrong. I go to the hospital for an upper GI next week and a consultation the next day to discuss the possibility of cancer in my system. They are gonna check something real quick to determine if they feel something may need to be tested for cancer... but it's just a thought, not nothing yet. So with all the good news up ahead... when i am briefly feeling fine, that's when i try to haul ass and get things done. Let's see... what is coming in? I won't post pics unless I take them myself. Hmm.. what was it that i ordered... Someone sent me an email saying that they have a total of 57lbs of amplifier power coming to me... We won't know what that is til next week Oh, and the same email also stated that 100 lbs of subwoofers are on their way too. Must be a surprise! But what good is bass without some upgraded mids and components... Well, haven't ordered components yet but the rear speaker area sure is gonna know the difference when this guy's package from Montana gets here. Nothing looks better than an ID does it? Hmm... how does one ground all of this equipment? I don't know if pure copper\silver finish with Quad 1/0 awg means anything for a ground but we'll see. Forget ground, how does that 1 3/0 wire feed everything in the rear? I think i may have forgotten... or will I have remembered once all 2/0 awg cable is ran from 3 additional batteries? I think i might remember that. Well, you will never see this but the 110 lbs of sound deadening will be hidden underneath all of this, Thanks to SecondSkin!

a sub in it's maximum recommended sealed enclosure does just fine off of max rms rated power. IF you got more power than what's recommended, put the sub in a smaller box to control excursion, it does not control thermal limits. So, even though you are using sealed box, 2 of them would be recommended for that amount of power. Taken from their website- Optimal Car: 0.5 cu ft net volume sealed Acceptable: 0.2 - 0.65 cu ft net volume sealed See? You can go all the way down to 0.2 per sub(do a common chamber) and run that amp to them and you'll be set. The cost of building this box is nothing! You could prob build 3 sealed boxes with 1 sheet of MDF. IF you just so happen to not like the outcome, build another one for just 1 sub.... or build a sealed box for both subs but only hook up one and use the other as a passive radiator. I'm pretty sure that's possible.

Well, for one, dont run that amp full tilt to 1 of those 8s, hehe. Ok, now to ur question- Don't run 2 ported in that size. Either 1 ported or 2 sealed i can see happening. If you run both ported, it will be VERY hard to reproduce low end response like they may be meant for. If you want some loud boom, i'd say do 1 ported. IF you want some nice smooth sound with some higher up boom boom, go sealed.

For being 16 u sure do have a lot of $$$ equipment.

This is in the pre-stages... about 75% of everything i need is being sent from everywhere and will be arriving next week... This build might\will progress til the mid to more likely the end of MAY before it's completed. For a teaser pic, this is to keep the voltage up in the back-

You are gonna have to tell us the maximum external dimensions a box can take up or else we will start throwin ideas that may not fit... Such as 10 Audioque 15" SD2.5s...

alright cool man, now you just made me use it

alrighty. interesting info. I guess this goes on the same basis as anti-corrosion spray for battery terminals correct? Speaking of that, can i use that to put on all my battery terminals or should i just get the typical spray from Auto Zone?

ok, i'm gonna get silver plated 1\4" copper bar. I put this grease on every hole i insert a bolt through and i also paint it... for me enough times so it becomes non conductive on the outside for safety reasons. If i order too much and need to cut some off, i paint the part that is cut off. That grease is a little $$$ but i can do it. $30 for 3oz!

how much are they gonna be? Are they gonna sound good? Is there a presale? Haha, Finally, Denim is the winner! I was waiting for someone to do that before 1 post turned into 5 pages in 3 hrs of the same 5 questions.

oh and bigjon, i might just end up doing what u did just for the positive side. I might just do that but still buss bar the ground because for my app, it would help me a LOT. I got 1 3/0 ran from front to rear. Then 1/0 to each batt and 1/0 to each amp. that little 12v safety block i always talk about on here from cadence... Well i dragged it out of the closet to look at it since i havent used it in years. It's got 1 1/0 in but 2 4awg out ONLY!, no 1.0 out?!?! ahhhh!! Since it's circuit controlled, i cant' run it backwards so unless i run 1/0 out from batt to fuse holder to 2 4awg in distro block to 1/0 out into amp.. i can't use the block.... That is so much freakin convertin, i might just not use it at all.. Hell NONE OF YOU ALL USE IT, hehe, i should get by without it.... HOPEFULLY. I won't be gettin my 300a alt for a few weeks from now.

"If" i had to cut the length shorter for whatever reason, what's the purpose of coating the ends? I'm assuming when i go to drill the holes out i need i dont have to treat it with anything there do i? And i was thinking about the paint idea. Spray paint or actual paintbrush paint? I can check conductivity with multimeter to ensure correct thickness applied, i'm just curious as to which paint method is faster that can get the job done. OH and while i'm typing, check this out and let me know what u think- There is JUST enough room for me to run 3 HC1400s in my car. They set in the back of the car, next to rear bumper. They are all turned sideways like a gigantic long wall of batts. So, you know that looking on top from left to right, the + and - terminals are perfectly in line with each other . This is what i have proposed- Using side post terminals on the ground and running buss bar that way. For the power terminal post, i was trying to find a way to raise the post higher than the ground so i can elevate a power bar across the ground, see what i am saying? I am looking at these, i assume these would work, right? I need to use a small length ground post and a post on the + that can elevate it higher than the ground's top post... I was thinking of using the small top piece as the ground's post to hold the side post in and the larger piece as the positive post to elevate high then run the buss bar on it and secure it with the top small piece. I might have to contact Kinetik about this to see if the small piece will even fit in the batt with the side post, it may not even be long enough to hold the side post terminal in place.