shizzzon

...they make thumb drives all the way up to 32gb

thats what it is, it has typical HP/LP/Full. However, since the subsonic filter can go as high as 500hz, it can do bandpass.

# CH 1 & 2 Variable HP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB # CH 1 & 2 Variable LP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB # CH 3 & 4 Variable HP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB # CH 3 & 4 Variable LP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB # 10 Hz - 500 Hz variable subsonic filter (CH 1&2 and CH 3&4) # Subsonic filter allows for band-passed crossover configuration How can it not do bandpass? If someone wanted to run a bandpass between 60-300hz... u can do it with this amp. I plan on buying this amp because it can bandpass.

i had planned and planned on using it but my new setup consists of a final 2 ohm load so i can't use it now. From what i researched, pasmag tested it to do 4,800w @1ohm 14.4v and around 3,600w @1ohm on 12.6v

Well, i was sleeping in the basement and i cant tell if i woke up due to the shaking or because the person upstairs was yelling earthquake, haha. This is the 1st one i've felt and in the basement, it was awesome. Felt like an ultra subsonic rumble that gradually got less and less powerful until it just stopped. Makin me think.... I want this song with that stereo setup, hehe.

We just had an earthquake here in Louisville, Ky @ 5:37am Justin - rated a 5.4 and recorded over 200 miles away from here.

dont know how much power you are lookin for but the sundown 100.4 amp does bandpass on all 4 channels higher than what you need so it would fit you perfectly. rated at 100x4 @4ohm 160wx4 @2ohm.

that doesnt mean you should bypass what is recommended to run an amp that can draw 500a or more. As a rule of thumb for music, you should have half the fuse rating of the amps in aH for batts. So, like i stated before, 250aH for an amp that can draw 500a. The long term output alone from the batts is not what to look at(not talking to anyone in specific) but the goal is to have enough power from the batts so if\when it does draw off the batts, their voltage level will stay high even during high current demands where alt just can't do it. The less batt you have, the faster the batt will drain. The faster a batt will drain, the lower the voltage goes. For anyone, noobs and experienced, i would still advise in getting the Cadence FH-8 block as i use it on my amps so if any amp that is ran through it gets sent anything below 12v, the block will automatically shut down power output from it before it gets to the amp so it doesnt potentially damage it. You can get the block for under $50 easily so for a $1,200 intro price, you could actually run one these blocks on a stock electrical system with this 5k amp and be safe... Although it would rarely ever be on since the block would keep it off most of the time, hehe. The block reacts superfast. Think of your cd skipping. Now, instead of knowing it's skipping because it's scratched, think of it as every time is stops, it's your amp being turned off due to low voltage then resuming when voltage rises above 12v. Something to use not as a suggestion but as a hopeful mandatory purchase.

Now hold on sundownz, don't offer an idea scrapper yet, hehe, i still gotta look over somethings.

hey bigjon, you r crazy man, i am not the walkin money tree..... Gotta change the subject real quick.. I checked out CM's UL line... 18lbs is CRAZY light, but not for $2k.... hehe, that was a crazy company but i'm not that rich.

Awesome then, don't take this the wrong way but 40lbs is light. I'm trying to get a list of all my equipment that i "might" use and the 3000d was in there... I just figured it weighed 45lbs, hehe, guess not. I was sweatin over here hopin you wasnt gonna say over 65lbs, around 40 is nothing, great. Electrical-(bose301s) For daily use, i'd assume you would need at the very least minimum a single 300a alt, recommended dual 200s\dual 250s. minimum of 250aH worth of batts. This is my assumption.

Ok, just read about this, gotta ask some spec questions as my build will be coming VERY soon but if this amp fits my needs then i wil be more than willing on waiting 3months for it if necessary. You don't have to be exact since these arent built yet so ball park figures are fine. What do you think the weight of one of these will be and will the length be under 40"? I can care less about the output specs since i'm assuming it's similar to the 3000d, one thing that i am curious on is - will this amp feature dual 0/1 power and ground? Thank you for any feedback.

if your design is suppose to have the ports 7" long, then the entire assembly needs to be 7" long. So, if the flare is already 4", for example, then you only need 3" of tubing.

it's a weight issue, need less amps as possible, that's why i want to try the tri mode thing. 2nd, someone told me i needed marine speakers for this application. All it's for is just for louder instrumentation, no bass. I'll have to see if i can shut off the internal amp in this HU i got, never looked yet. That does sound easier, forgot about doin that. Ok then, no tri mode for me, hehe. I am racking on all the equipment in a big list and seeing how much everything weighs so i know what i will actually run in the vehicle. Trying to stay under 400 lbs.

can someone explain this to me in simple terms of how it works? I'm trying to understand how it works but am giving myself a headache. I want this amp to power 2 fronts, 2 rears and 2 "show off" external speakers. Now, by doing a standard wiring job, all 4 in car speakers @4ohm would be receiving as advertised 100w per speaker. I set all the x-overs on the amp the way i want them to be. I then decide to hookup these 2 extra speakers in tri mode by bridging each of the 2 speakers on ch1+2 and ch3+4. This is where i get lost... If the original speakers were receiving 100w before, what are they getting now including the add-on speakers? The amp is rated for 320x2 @4ohm... so i was thinking that all speakers receive 107w a piece? But then again that doesnt sound right either so i'm confused. I need to know how much power the tri-mode speakers will receive so i know how powerful of a pair of speakers i need to purchase for that hookup. ALSO- can't do it if this won't work either- These external speakers are marine speakers mounted behind the grill of the vehicle for show off purposes. They will need to be on a kill switch. Is the proper way to do this in this wiring scenario to just run + or - on the kill switch per speaker? also, if that works, if i decide to turn the speakers on, do i need to make sure the amp is OFF before doing so?

if u really love the low bass, you need to have the box tuned lower than 34hz. Try 28-30hz.

i've never used trickles before but i'm sure that's normal. Remove the charger off the bat and measure it again later. If it's the same voltage then it's holding a charge. I dont know why the charger keeps coming back on for? Is the charger geared toward charging this type of battery?

f1 cars arent street legal either. But you do have a point.

well, that's a good comment. No, i dont like to compete. For fun, non sanctioned events sure, but sanctioned events is just a turn off for me. I hate to ask this so i wont ask it like i'm a noob, hehe. I personally need to aim my goals to the cheaper alternative because i need to buy me some others things soon so that'll save some money. Those AA subs, all of them seem interesting. What has been catching my eye is also the Assassin 8" driver. I have an idea but i noticed that the Fs of the 8 is 38hz and even though they recommend tuning at 33hz, i'm afraid it might not reproduce the lows in the high 20s on up to well... My option was to run either 4 Arsenal 10s or 8 Assassin 8s. I know 8 8s "should " be louder than 4 10s but i know nothing of AA so i'm clueless of the 8's potential.

If this were you, what would you do- If you already had all of your sound deadening and HU installed, all u need to do is buy your front stage\midbass amps for all those, then your subs and amps and all wiring and new alternator. If the money you were gonna spend regardless came up to - ~$3,200, if you knew you had the room to double output power from 2,000w to 4,500w, would you spend an extra $1,300? Added weight is approx 500 lbs out of a total of 865 so new coil overs or shocks would also need to be bough as well ~$850 on top of $1,300. Opinions? I'd like to break 150 some point in my life but for a daily driver it's hard. I'm lookin at wanting to buy 4 AA Arsenal 10s off of a 2,400w amp in a 4cuft @33hz but i don't think it's gonna get me to tha 150 mark @33hz. I can do that, hehe or for $2,100 more, i can go with 3 AQ HDC310s off of a 4,500w amp and 6 batts. But that's some mad extra money...

HAHA

ur broke but are about to purchase over $4,000 in just subs and another $3000 in amps just for bass? I'd be sayin i'm broke........AFTER all that, not before, hehe.

Here are the results, hope these help in your decisions as they have helped me.

if this sub is nothing around 200w, then this is gonna be awesome. What i'm curious to know is if this 8 can be optimally ran in a 0.5 cu ft ported box. If it can, hell yea because that would definitely beat 1 10 compared to 2 of these 8s.

get me the height and width dimensions for your bed. I doubt i'll need depth. I'll see what i can come up with.