shizzzon

Ok, everything has been typed into word. to be convenient for those viewing this thread, i will take snapshots of all the documents so if you do not have Word, you will still be able to clearly see what is in the docs, This will be posted tomorrow afternoon.

Ok FINALLY, hehe. I got my box testing done. There is a LOT of information i have to type into Word, might take the rest of the day, don't know yet but when it's all done, i will compress all documents into a rar file and post the link to where you can download all the information i obtained. And on a side note real quick, this is a hatchback and sub up port back was NOT the loudest, but close.

I was thinking about buying a projector for my Nintendo Wii for the weekends only so if anyone has any experience with projectors, come on in and fill me in with some info. Now, this projector will only be used for the Nintendo Wii so i was looking for cheaper priced projectors. The ones i'm looking at are 800x600 so res is compatible with the Wii. These projectors i'm looking at have 1500-2000 lumens and about 2000:1 contrast ratio. The cheaper priced ones are considered business projectors for some reason... Anyways, i wanted to project this projector on our garage door outside during the weekends and have Wii battles out back at night. So gots me a couple of questions. Do i really need a projector screen? I prefer not to have one since all the ones i see are mounted up and pull down. This is suppose to be a quick setup, quick put away type of event. These projectors i'm looking at range from 40-300" large so i figure 100" would be superior quality. Out garage door is all white, smooth coating on it, no windows. I figure i could get by with it fine using a large projected image on there... And i wont want a projector mount either. I don't know exactly how projectors project images angle-wise but i figure i'd just set it on a table outside and adjust it from there. So sound workable?

i also refuse to help people with car audio install based upon a price that i dont agree is enough. When you get the "know it all" kids sayin "for that much money i could have gotten this and be way louder" crap and others taking that as fact think that we pay too much for what we have. Then they come up to ya and ask you to do a setup as good or better than what u got for like 1\5th of the price it cost you to build your own. IF you don't think the output will be great, don't do it. Tell 'em why and if they don't like it, tell him that's why u dont like it. Have em go to a shop and try to get them to do it when they probably get charged $500 for for doin a 4 15" install.

not quite, you can play a good bit more under tuning than that. its not like you loose all cone control the second you go under tuning by 1hz. and for your inaudibility comment, you're off by a decent margin as well. That's true, last box i built that was tuned to 29hz, i had the SSF set at 25hz and my setup was fine for over a year before i sold the car. And hopefully you can hear below 32hz... Music starts to get interesting in the 20s. Anything below 20hz is inaudible by the average person.

yes, adding an extra port will increase port tuning if adding another of the same size.

That's interesting, didn't know that could happen due to amp being screwed to metal. I've never screwed an amp down to metal either by the way, hehe. I've always mounted amps to wooden shelves and had them mounted to the frame.

you should hook up a good surge protector to the wall with a kill switch on it. Run a cut extension cord from the surge protector to your sub. Make sure the surge protector is turned off when hooking everything up. When you are ready to burp, turn the switch on with something non conductive for safety reasons. Kill the switch the same way. If the sub starts to move out of control on whatever base you have it sitting on, do not move it with your body, again, use something non conductive for safety reasons. Also, voltage output is typically 120v. Maximum amperage output is typically 100A. Resistance for that is - 1.2 ohms. I do not know if anything bad happens, if after rise, resistance is below 1.2 ohms so don't question me about that. What i do know is 120v and 100A = 12,000w of power at the right resistance load. You also must understand that when hooking up a speaker to the wall, to get maximum power, hook it up to the MAIN breaker, not some small 20A breaker somewhere because that thing will trip too quick.

hey, i wanted to respond to your post so you wouldnt think nobody seen it. I got the scope and in order to get you the details about it, either tonight or tomorrow i'll use it for ya so i can tell you exactly what to look at\adjust\press when you can't see anything properly.

i would not suggest running no more than a 1200w amp on a stock alternator. I would be looking into 2 15s approx 500w each or 3 12s approx 400w each off of a 1200w amp. You will kill the alt in the long run if you dont upgrade. Also, the l7s are box hogs and require around 2.5 minimum to 6 cu ft max PER sub.

404 soldierz makes bass lines like lil jon songs.

from my understanding, spl alts get hot real quick so it would overheat the alt, from what i assume.

i was being funny, seriously, dont use software to attempt to see what it "might" do because it is usually always wrong.

try plugging the sub into an enclosure, you'll get more realistic results that way and you don't even need t/s parameters for that. I believe it was said before that anything over 1200w is not worth it. But like JimJ said, even if you had a 10,000w amp, you can still run your 15 on that amp, amp won't output max power all the time if you don't want it too. If you set your amp up right and the sub is thermally taking abuse, drop the gain a little or drop your preout voltage a tad.

works fine for me. I hope everytime the bass hits, it is cutting the lyrics out on purpose rather than the bass being that loud!

you should be finding out how much room you have for batts and amps first. If you plan on adding approx 1,000 lbs of weight in the car, you are going to need to replace the tires with something that can support more weight. You will need to replace suspension system if weight exceeds 865 pounds. Honestly, if i were lookin for straight out spl and unlimited potential power... If i had the room, i'd run an APXX off of 20kw-30kw of power, if u can fit it.

that doesnt tell us anything... 38.2v @ 1ohm... Is that 1 ohm nominal... pretty hard to get @1ohm exactly. What is resistance during the test? What is amperage output? How much clipping involved if any? What is DCR?

i think he means output from amp turns into dc which is bad.

i have no choice though. Not to completely change the topic but excessive, ohio gen, ho-alt, powermaster... all 4 of these companies either dont make em or dont know how to. I have a newer car and only Iraggi has the brains to do it. I have no problem with customer service since i'm so close to him, within 5 hrs away. That's why i say if you are close like i am, shouldnt worry about it. Now, if i were far away, i dont know what i'd be doin... prob turbo-ing the car.

i thought about doin this a couple yrs ago because a pc is a pc, it can do almost anything, HU maint only does audio or for more can do video and GPS... I am very fluent with building computers but after doin the research about carpcs and the way i am, i always want the best out there as long as it isn't celebrity pricing only, i'll buy it. The prices of prebuilt carpcs vs building your own vs buying a screen\GPS and a phone that has the internet, there was no need for me to do it. I remember i was gonna spend about $1500 on a nano-itx build that i was researchin and i was gonna have the best of everything in there basically. For the trouble, i instead got a double din screen with a dockable GPS(blackbird II) and i can receive and make calls from my stereo as well as external storage(ipod) and DVD-mp3 capability(awesome feature) and it's a HU, it wont crash and it doesnt require maintenance every once in a while. It boots up the same speed everytime i want to use it, it's simple. And, it only cost me $1,200 even which is cheaper than the carpc build itself. I got a full qwerty size keyboard on my phone i use to surf the net so it works out perfectly.

if you are close to Tennessee and want to drive to his shop(Iraggi), do it. I am going to his shop sometime soon so he can mount my alt on my car since nobody else knows how to. I was talkin to Ohio Gen about my car and they were sayin that they believe it's impossible to built an aftermarket alt for my car (scion tc) due to this "hairpin stator". I talked to Iraggi about it, less then a month ago, and he was kinda laughin sayin that technology has been out since 2000 and has personally installed his alts on tCs without problems. I've read about this negativity but not in real detail. I say if he really has gotten shady, there's no better way for me than to have him install it himself, to a test on the alt right there and get the lifetime warranty slapped on that baby. It's expensive but it's the only route i can go.

if we knew answers like that, what's the point of competing? The BL is suppose to be louder than the Q.

it doesnt hurt too but it also doesnt take the place of bracing either. It prevents flex better than single layer but bracing is still necessary.

in a bandpass, it will be hard to smell abuse by the time u got to the sub. gotta give us that weird ohm load. And make sure when u measure it with the DMM that the stereo is completely turned off including the amp.

You are gonna have to lose the double baffle. I do not think it's even required for just that amount of power anyway. I would suggest to do a little bit more bracing because of the loss but this is a tight squeeze design so needed everything i could get. Use your max dimensions- 38x22x12 OK, i think this is right, i'm half awake right now but i'm pretty sure this is right- Internal- 36.5x20.5x10.5 Port dimensions- 10.5" high x 4.25" wide. LEAVE THE PORT WIDTH 4.25" WHEN MAKING A 90 DEGREE TURN IN THE BOX. Length of port- cut port length to 16.25" long and attach it to the wall that it is exiting out of. So the exiting port wall will need to be cut 4.25" wide. You will then make a 90 degree turn to continue port length. Add an additional 3" to the port and still maintaining the port wall to be exactly 4.25" away from the enclosure wall keeping the port 4.25" wide at all times. Specs - 3.62 cubes NET, tuned to 32hz, 44.6sqin of port. If you want to go bigger on the port, let me know. The sqin size of the port is right at what AA recommends per cube but if you want to go a little bigger, you will decrease your internal volume. I think that size port should be fine. If you ever planned on adding more power or going to a couple comps with this setup, i would recommend a larger port so again, let me know if you want it a little bit larger.