shizzzon

That's cool Of coursei'm talkin to u, hehe, nobody else on this thread knows where dixie is, hehe

Tell u what, pick a place out on dixie highway next week and I'll meet u there.

i don't see why you couldnt. What dual 3 ohm sub is it? resistance rise should be high enough at all times. Gotta make sure your electrical system is beefed up for it. The closer you get to the lowest ohm load the more potential for damage to occur if your electrical system is dipping too low.

i shouldnt have to because there are more than one topic about this on other forums about comparisons. I've already posted it here before in this thread and just like the manufacturer states, this meter reads LOWER than the termlab because (this is their brief summery of it) the termlab mic still isn't as accurate as their mic and has a lot of trouble staying consistent past 170db. It was noted that when a competitor metered a 179.1 Db on the termlab mic that this meter metered an exact 170db. I'm gonna be using this meter tomorrow to start positioning speaker box to see which type of install will work best in my car.

What you said.... made absolutely no sense whatsoever. At No Point did you make a complete thought. Everyone in this thread is now dumber having read what you posted... You receive no points...and we move on.. Hehe, i just had to do it. That's on some movie, can't remember. Ok, for someone to tell you that about 10s is, to bluntly put in, ghetto knowledge. ghetto knowledge= very basic knowledge but cannot explain why anything works the way it does. When you say 10s can be used to do all those things, you are probably referring to putting 10(s) in a ported enclosure(one with at least 1 opening). Ported enclosures can and are tuned to sound basically however you want them to, high, low, accurate, etc... This is not driver size relevant! But on a side note, people do tend to refer to 10s as having that more punchy bass sound. but that also has to do with other things. 12s can be punchy sounding too and so can 15s. Everything is in the install.

Unless this is old news, ooops but is still nice to know- This is specifically for Californians and if it gets very popular it will go completely national then international. A Hybrid... that will be put on the market as planned by the end of this year... with an expected certified MPG rating(this is an all electric so they must be comparing gas to hours of power maybe?) of 330 MPG! As of right now, they are trying to get there... there last known spec was at 230 MPG which is ungodly incredible. Price tag - under $30K Go ahead and real full article and all pages throughout about the Aptera. You will see that they also take great pride in safety features as well so don't be fooled by it's looks when you see it. The Aptera Hybrid

if u really want to LOL, i'll make you ROFLMAOFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFLFL, hehe- the chart only, hehe only, gives readouts to a millionth of a Db, which is one unit greater than i gave. If you need something more...(because there are probably some no-brainer morons out there) the software it comes with can get even more precise... down to the trillionth! Yea.. because a couple yrs from now, we are gonna be braggin because the record that was set(for example) with a 181.3 was recently broken with a 181.300000012802 Db !!! yah!!!

i'm bout to go to bed so no replyin to this topic til the next day or 2(no i'm not sleepin that long, hehe) but was foolin around with my meter today!!! I hooked it up to my oscope to read live Dbs measurements but my oscope doesnt read them like i was thinkin so i set the o-scope up to read in millivolts like it suppose to and here is what i did- I didn't feel like draggin all this audio equipment to my car so i kept it in the house just to make sure it works! NOTE BEFORE I CONTINUE - you MUST have a meter capable of reading millivolts specifically! I tried testing it on 2 different meters that only read down to a tenth of a volt and it wouldnt work efficiently unless you were going from 140 to 180db which is unrealistic. Ok, so i got my o-scope set to read millivolts. I put the meter right up to the port on my computer speaker setup- Klipsch surround with dual 8" power subwoofer drivers. (i think one may be a PR) but anyways onto results- set volume to a certain level, played 0db generated tone at 37hz. Set bass (goes from -15 to +15) to -15 and gradually recorded what i was seeing. o-scope rests at 0.0000 mV (pretty accurate) Every time i increased the bass by 1, the millivolt reading increased! Every time i decreased bass by one, millivolt reading decreased instantly so meter does work. The following Db results are pointless due to unknown port tuning, power applied, might be clipped, etc... But results show that i went from 115.77507 Db - 133.95041 Db So, at least we know it works. Now, just in time, the weather is getting warm enough to continue sound deadening for the rest of the week so gonna start doing that and at some point i will throw meter in the car and do about 45 minutes worth of box maneuvering to see which direction to face sub\port as a general idea and to obtain Fs currently from sealed box and start to build a test box soon(maybe if still undecided)

Ok, website was down, here are your specs- You gave me internal dimensions of 40" wide by 25" Deep by 24" high. Using double baffle, sub up port up, external dimensions are- 41.5" wide x 26.5" deep x 26.25" high. Sub cutout diameter - 16.75" Outer sub diameter - 18.5" Tuning 32.8-33hz! (AA doesn't recommend tuning above 33) Net volume - 12.1 cubes ported @32.8hz Port specs - 4" back by 28" wide by 15.75" long. PLEASE CLICK TO ENLARGE THIS IMAGE TO BETTER SEE THE IMAGE IF ANYTHING BELOW IS CONFUSING!!! Detail is missing in this image if not enlarged! picture - Specs for what u are seeing- Drilling points for both subs are as follows- (these specs are taken from measuring FULL external dimensions. It is assumed that when laying baffle down that you have a 41.5" wide by 26.5" deep sheet! drill point 1- 10.375" (horizontally) x 15.625" (vertically) drill point 2- 31.125" (horizontally) x 15.625" (vertically) measure these from left to right and bottom to top according to picture above. Port- Also assuming using a 41.5" wide x 26.5" deep sheet- port is 4x28 so here are cutting points- 6.75" horizontally and cut over to 34.75" horizontally. 4" deep on port. Port runs down front wall, port uses this wall as part of port. Port ends 15.75" down Tuning 32.8hz(very close) Note again, the image above is showing the external dimensions. You should lay the baffle on top of all side walls for best support anyway which i'm sure you will so these dimensions will match up perfectly for you. You owe me so much...... buy my next setup for me, hehe

i dont know exactly... if you don't get any options then 2.5 -3.0 may be best. if you don't like the results, then make it bigger. Can't really just know when you reach mechanical limits without trial and error.

a DMM wont tell u nothing of importance on this amp. The only way to set it up without an o-scope is to do it by ear which is hard to do with a subwoofer. But set all that up as stated above and at volume 30, play a test tone. Start turning the gain from as low as possible to as high as possible, yes ALL THE WAY UP. Do it slow so you can attempt to hear clipping. Clipping is an increase of sudden power and sounds a little different than normal. This is what u need to know what clipping is when trying to tune by ear alone. We know that max gain is clipped, that's why i want you to slowly turn it up til u hit max so u know what it sounds like. The gain "should be set somewhere in the 70-90% range but don't rely on that percentage alone as a give up, fallback option. Almost forgot, if u max out the gain and you still cant hear a difference, turn gain back down, turn volume up on HU, lets say no higher than 34 then start turning gain up again slowly. IF you still can't hear clipping then pause test tone, take a breath, close your eyes for a few seconds and try again, hehe.

when you add options to the BL, especially cooling, it can handle up to but no higher than 2000w of output clip-free. I'll even tell you for full potential that the amp won't get the sub to max potential so you know what to do? build a larger enclosure so you can increase the efficiency. IT lowers power handling mechanically but is good because if you are trying to reach limits here that's one way to do it. But you gotta know what to look for when going outside of company recommendations because if you havent done it before or not know what to look for then you aren't going to be warrantied if something gets damaged!

ok i just got done reading over your head unit. IF you have SQ turned on your head unit, your 3 band EQ, turn it off. Set your bass to 0 Db. Set your subwoofer level to +6Db. Now, you have 2v preouts so the gain on this amp is going to be set pretty high but does not need to be set to max. Your volume control generally should max out clean-wise around Volume 30.

i'm gonna post this as i want this set in concrete instead of having people tell their side of the story everytime says this because i am curious as well if i am wrong about this- I have never used Fi products but have heard a LOT of people say the Q lacks low end and others say it doesnt. Now, i dont know the specs of people's boxes who said it lacks low end but let me chime in on what i believe and someone back me up if i'm right about this. Using a Q in a sealed box, any sub in a sealed box for that matter, the larger the box, the deeper it will play and the more efficient the box in that low end area but may lower power handling if you exceed the maximum requirement size for a sealed box. So, if Fi recommends no higher than 2.6, then use that size for awesome low end response as there will be. Now, for those who say low end is lacking in the Q, this is where i need this confirmed- From graphs i've seen and specs, it is my belief that unless you tune the Q lower than the average sub, that it may actually sound less loud in the low end as another sub you may compare to. Let's compare the Q to the BL for example. If you wanted both subs to do best in the 30-40hz range, you may port the BL at let's say 32hz for it to probably peak around 35hz. The Q, (my belief) takes longer to peak as it gradually increases it's output past tuning slower. So, if you tune the Q to 32hz, it may not peak til around 40hz or even higher... Anyone confirm this, that would be the end all lack low end responses from the Q. Not only that, but if you look at recommendations for both a Q15 and BL15, the maximum recommended tuning frequency for a BL is 37hz but for a Q is only 33hz... again, that's what i believe is going on with the Q but if i'm wrong, then let me know why.

what head unit do you have? make and model?

you say 2.5W x 14L That's dimensions for a circle port, not vent\slot. Even if you mean 2.5w and high with 14L, you still lookin at no more than 0.08 cubes of displacement which is WAY TOO SMALL port area. Reply with what port size you were referring to again so i can understand what you are asking. God!, just joined and already confusing everybody.... hehe

the reason i bought mine when i did was because i was blowing my rear speakers every 4 months. After the 3rd pair got damaged i bought one. Havent had anything get damaged in years since.

u have an o-scope, you can set your gain perfectly, the way it should be. To get maximum potential, just crank everything up to max and leave SSF down but don't do that if you like your equipment, To get maximum CLEAN potential, then get an o-scope. Anything beyond that, not wise, not cheap, and not warranted. the one i bought a long time ago was on Parts Express. It was a Velleman. Works perfectly for this scenario.

do NOT do that and leave it like that! You are doubling impedance rise which is typical. DCR is 0.7 ohms, your measurement of 33.2v and 21 amps = 631w @ 1.58 ohms This may be a signaling issue with the gain matching but also it depends on how the graph looks on an o-scope. If the wave is not filling the screen from top to bottom then you are not getting full potential, but also do not clip or that is bad as well. You will ALWAYS have impedance rise on every frequency and this rise will be different from one note to another. This is why people can claim to run thousands of watts to a single sub.... because they are NOT. They are using amps that have the "potential" to but are not due to rise. Now, i'm sure this amp can do what it's rated but to get that, it's very hard. When wiring an amp and sub together safely, that means choosing a sub that can safely be wired to an amp without ever going below it's stable rating, you will usually never see it's maximum rated wattage. Dual 2 ohms subs in parallel are usually either 0.7, 0.75, 0.9 ohms. Even at 0.7, rise will be above 1 ohm so no trouble in safety there but will be above 1 ohm, not 1 ohm so output will be less than rated spec. That's just how it is. Now, you could run 2 dual 2 ohms, which depending on RE per coil, wired in parallel could be 0.35, 0.375, 0.45. Since rise can be as low as less than double what it is at DCR, you can see that even 0.45 DCR would not be practical for daily! You have to wire safely but in doing so will keep the rise above it's lowest stable resistance resulting in not full output according to specs. This is typical for all amps except for some newer ones who use crown or crown-like technology where resistance is more forgiving to retain same output power and power supply is regulated.

Well, now that we know what you have, if you ever design a speaker box, you better not complain about not having the right tools.

you're right but i've always wondered just how much power is going to these subs that are running 30,000w worth of amps per sub, u know? IF you need that much power, either impedance rise is off the chart, WAY to much power compression or the sub can actually handle it for brief periods but i never really buy the last theory, hehe. I've talked to DJ before about ways to get more power into their subs without excessively heating up the coil or tinsel leads. We've never tried it but is a good theory and i've yet to see others do it as well so that last theory about subs actually being able to take that much power is somewhat unrealistic. That's a LOT of current.

competition and daily are 2 different things. You can probably run 4Kw to Fi Qs for burps as an example but not for daily. It's all in the install.

i'm workin on a design that gives him 12 cubes NET with ~140sqin of port.

Ok, you got yourself a deal! Those dimensions are doable. I might not be able to get you dimensions today so i'll go ahead and tell you that just in case that happens but those max internal dimensions, that is 13.88 cubes gross, minus 0.5 for sub leaving 13.38 gross. I can work with a 1.38cuft displacement for port. Port area will be around 11.75-12sqin per cube but should get you what you want. I will also tell you that this will be tuned to 37hz so hoping all is well with output.

you gonna need to go over that again because there is no way you only need 15.5" depth for that size port to get a 32hz tune. That's 195sq in of port.