shizzzon

you are only allowed to use marketed fuses and only certain types. Slow blow fuses are prohibited and only come in fuse standards that are also not allowed in Meca. If you want to "exploit" your fuses to make them perform better than rated without cheating(invisible fusing), you can purchase cryogenically frozen fuses. I must warn you though, even if they do pass MECA inspection as most are AGC fusing so you would need to purchase multiple fuses because CF fuses only come in around 10-15A per fuse, they cost around $50 a fuse! Or you can figure out how to do it yourself with liquid nitrogen. Don't kill yourself!

It has been tested to put out voltage and current with a conclusion that at 8ohm, it appears to be AC watts. Whatever the 4ohm rating is, multiply it by 60% and that should be a pretty close figure to reality.

i dont know... I think because of how aggressive my build is, i think X2 but still daily driver.

Louisville. Be expecting me at some Horsecave events soon.. Not like REAL soon but hopefully right after christmas if i'm lucky.

Lol, yep.. that's coke.. They had all that on the set when filming Flight. Just wait til u see all the deleted scenes, lmao.

They are building it because they know it deserves to be in your hands. We'll be doin the dance with you when you get them installed

Lol.. don't ask me, i just sit back and watch it on the news.

I dont know man.. I think Mark gonna find out you be dealin on his forum again and is gonna get pissed he isn't gettin a cut.

That would be noticeable. 150A Midis vs 80A Midis are night and day difference.

Assuming you know your frequency and you are using a tone(easier), this is how- Play your tone at a relatively low volume level. Get a DMM out and start lowering the LPF and raising the Subsonic Filter to a point to where they do not cause the AC voltage to drop. You want the narrowest playable range so only your burp note is not filtered out. Make sure you are wired to 1 ohm when doing this. Next, start the tone on low volume. Then start turning it up relatively fast after the meter has started measuring at least 2-5 seconds into the run. You want to go from low volume to max by rolling in about 0.5-0.7seconds. gain knob, PAC LC-1, etc.. they all will let you do this. Once at max volume, just keep it there until it blows. If you have a meter, you can also test just burping at max volume without rolling to see what's easier. also- if you have any other amp in the car that is not being used to burp, pull it's fuses. If using a custom fuse block with the ability to torque the bolts holding the fuses down REAL tight, you can get a great deal of current through it! I used to run a Stinger MIDI 4way block off 1076A of current draw on 4 80A fuses. I'd blow them in about 1.2seconds. I then built custom block supporting 2,250A continuous per NEC standard. I connected 4 80A fuses to it torqued down tight and my score went up over 1 db(because fusing was popping too early before) and was able to obtain same score with these fuses vs my daily fuses(LARGE ratings). My run also got me a solid 2.5seconds straight before they would pop too. Also, what city are you in since i'm in KY too?

There is an undetermined suspension of the build for right now. I haven't been able to work on it all week. Between me constantly having to do side jobs with the tools i need to work with and now work is increasing workload by 33% without extra help, i am now losing this coming weekend altogether. Thanksgiving is 100% no longer going to be met.

Why are you limited to 175? IF this is for burps in MECA, then, lol.. yea 175 is fine if you know how to control the current draw. We can burp 3,500w amps @1ohm on single 80a fuse if that's the case. If it's for daily.. then that makes no sense why you'd be limited to 175 so explain if necessary.

Not trying to be critical but is this Techflex jacket solid or no? I'm curious because if it's solid, wondering what type of effects it can cause on wire current ratings. Probably not much, just still curious. I know sealed off cable like in a raceway, conduit, underground, etc will reduce ampacity up to 50%. IE - 8awg - 40A sealed. 8awg - ~65A open air.

puffah, come at us, seriously. I'm not on the tech team but you just put yourself in a position that implies that you have seen history in the making to it's present day in all fact. Well, let me school you here on some things. #1 - THD Levels. For one, you want to sit there and compare RATED specs of power output.. Stupidest thing you could have said in your intelligent post. So if i had a 3000w AB amp and a 3000w D amp, AB - 0.01% and D - 1% D just gonna suck? Full of shit. I don't normally call someone out so extensively but if anyone else reads what you posted, you will destroy car audio even more. The reason why it is full of shit is because you are implying the THD levels are set in stone. FALSE. IF you start clipping the shit out of the AB amp, guess what, THD increase... IF you turn the Class D amp down a HAIR, guess what, THD decrease... It's the SAME thing as comparing a well known company vs a cheaper quality company who BOTH makes and can compare Class D Amps. Some companies rate at different THD levels but ALL amps can attain levels far below 0.1%. #2 - THD Audibility- This is taken straight from Wikipedia- THD is an average of a number of harmonics equally weighted, even though research performed decades ago identifies that lower order harmonics are harder to hear at the same level, compared with higher order ones. In addition, even order harmonics are said to be generally harder to hear than odd order. A number of formulas that attempt to correlate THD with actual audibility have been published, however none have gained mainstream use. Decades ago, like when you first started the setting in your post. This is the same time era you are talking about in your first post. #3- Everything today is shit and everything back then was so much better in terms of sound quality. Yea.. If that were true, then why is any company still in business? If car audio equipment as a whole was so pathetic, then why is it such a large hobby? You honestly think NONE of us today in the ENTIRE WORLD have a single clue that one speaker maydoes sound different from another in different installs and environments? ANY HOBBY is DIY and in ANY HOBBY, you research and gain knowledge then experience. We all know what can and will sound good and we know what can and will get loud. Just because car audio competition isn't 99% SQ and 1% SPL doesn't mean it went to shit. It means it has EVOLVED! You guys didn't have SPL back then and you clearly answered why. Well guess what, since it evolved, now we have SPL. IS SQ gone? No. So why isn't is such a big thing anymore? Because SQ competition is SUBJECTIVE. When people compete, they compete and expect fairness in judging. You can get that without variables with dB meter. SQ Competitions are typically done via multiple judges ear. That's not accurate. 2nd, let's say you don't compete but want good stuff. MANY OF THOSE COMPANIES you named in the past, Seas, Morel, etc.. still exist today and put out great quality equipment. And 2 companies aren't the pinnacle of audio either. There are many more. So this is what i get from your mega post- You are STUCK in the 80s-90s era and refuse to either comprehend or attempt to jump back in the hobby and keep up with research. And don't tell us people were so much louder back then then they are now with less power, etc.. The Mics back then being used were inaccurate as hell. Audiocontrol, LinearX, Original Termlabs, etc.. They have all been discarded in competition to the present day. Audiocontrol and LinearX were used for, get ready for this.. Sound Quality measurements.. They weren't pressure sensors like what we use now to measure high SPL levels and if any of those companies DID use a pressure sensor, it has been proven over the years that they arewere inaccurate. We have Sound quality measuring devices today in use.. and are still the hardware of choice in Sound Quality competitions over old school hardware. #3 - Our speakers not used in home audio. Well, why the Hell would we want to do that IF building a serious SQ setup? Again, back in the 80s-90s era again. Although some companies DO in fact have some subs that were equally well in both environments, you should not interchange the two when looking for the best setup. That's more common sense knowledge then anything. Many things have happened since the "old school days of competition". Many changes have been done to shift the way things are marketed. I do not agree or like some things that have happened but they are solely not because companies decided to start making shit product and winning off it. The American market wants what they want for the cheapest. So companies make cheap lines off their name while those who know what they need, get the higher grade under the same name or a different name. Just because some companies make shit product does not mean that's the pinnacle of today's standards, lol.. That's EXACTLY what you are trying to imply and it's bullshit 101. The OLDSCHOOL brands then are NOT setting standards in today's market. That may be your argument partways because you say they are making shit now and are winning off it... Well, to those brands.. they aren't making it.. they sold off all their shit to China mostly. But don't bring Car Audio as a whole down completely because Orion or PPI or Rockford, etc isn't the best anymore... FORD was the first auto.. Are they the best today? No. So should all the people in the world stop driving cars now because Ford isn't the best? Think about that for a minute. You'd be surprised at what all has evolved from the last 30yrs of audio to what it is now. Ecstatic would come to mind based on what all you have missed. And it just keeps getting better.

This is what i'd do- Don't buy any batteries right now. Install the 2nd amp and see how your voltage is. If your voltage dips below 13.6v, then you are clearly beyond your alternators ability so that would be a given. So, the next thing would be how much lower are you wanting to go from there? I'd purchase more D3400s but only if you need to.

The primary frequency peak in Waka Flocka Flame 50k is 42Hz

I have readings from 1hz - 20000hz. Would you like to elaborate some more?

thanks impious, got some random things answered for me. About frequency response, you'll probably see this a LOT more with home audio than you will car audio. You would have a receiver that states something like- 5hz - 20,000hz +/- 1dB that means within that entire range, there will be a +/- 1db ripple. Now, you may have +/- 3db, who knows.. I do not see these published on car audio amps or at least not any of the most recent popular ones. Probably because that spec is useless to most of us because most of us are just about getting loud rather than fighting sound quality response in a car. And not talking about any particular brand here but if we were after sound quality response precisely, we probably wouldnt be using most of the common amps you see in builds today.

In reference to the top of the line comment about SP4s- I have never heard an LMS Ultra in person before but understand that it's the pinnacle of sound quality for very loud users... In that aspect, if i knew what the SP4 sounded like prior, or if it were out when i bought all my subs, i would(And still thinking about it!) ditch what i got and go with them. I would put the SP4s right along side the LMS'. I can't see how they could sound any better. You don't know quality if you've never heard it. Once you get them, you'll be hooked. They are just flatout awesome.

wattage alone doesn't dictate how the output can effect projected SPL on a meter or audibly(which to me is debatable). There are other things that go on or dont go on that should inside amps that will achieve greater SPL numbers on a meter. I cannot talk about audible differences because it would have to be extremely substantial. IE - Very high damping factors vs extremely low damping factors can have an audible difference possibly. IE - Non filtered outputs can create thermal issues with speakers quicker. That's 2 things right there. You have already narrowed down the rest, same THD level and same wattage comparison.

If i am looking at this correctly.. Chop, are you less than 15 minutes from the explosion? Everyone ok? Just seen it on the news. 11pm on Saturday, unknown cause of explosion happened. Killed 1 person, sent 200 others to safety. Reports saying the explosion was felt\heard for miles.

4 SP4s would destroy something. I've heard both setups in various designs before and while both sound good on music, the SP4 purely has that brute force that just keeps getting louder and louder without losing it's quality of sound(when leaving xmax) like most other subs do.

Looking for something other than plain or Black Oxide coated M8-M10s Class 12.9 that are available up to 110-120mm long. These will be used for Alternator mounting and it's not direct bolt-on so highest strength possible is being applied here.

What iswas your front stage and what was it's power? I got 2 FT1s going to be ran on a 150x2 as well but 101% clip-free because any type of tweeter like this is insanely loud already and i do not think CA makes recone kits for these tweeters... I havent asked yet but MTX makes some and they offer recone kits for like $9, lmao.. But hey, it would come in handy with all that steel base they are made out of.

The only common denominator in this story is your house. Sounds like all computers in your house destroy ethernet cards. Assuming that is true, I would contact your ISP and have them come out and do a line quality test in and outside of your house.