shizzzon

I will say if it even does work in the sense you are wanting it to work, the skars will have more cone area than your components by far so your staging will be VERY off. It will be highly noticeable that certain ranges are only focused on certain parts of the car vs it all coming naturally together in one central location. www.partsexpress.com is your friend with stuff like this. You could do this on a bench or in a garage or home but in the car, you would need a LOT of cone area in components to compensate for the enormous midbass efficiency. Another thing, 60-100hz is too limited in my opinion. If you are going to have subs in this vehicle, which i'm assuming you will, running a larger amp to your subs vs these skars even when LP'ed ~60hz will still cause the subs to carry your definition of midbass range up and over the skars potential more than likely. You need to know this so when you experience this, you aren't in such shock and awe when it happens and try to figure out what cancellation and phasing really are.

I have never had a wire come out of a ring terminal.. I vice them then take a punch and pinch the center of every ring terminal. Once the terminals are fastened down, the cables are then ziptied about 2 inches behind every ring terminal. This pretty much locks the wire from the ring terminal fastener back about half a foot with a very solid tight feel in the cable and ensures nothing will move.

it's one thing to say that the "type" of fitting uses more surface area per cable.. but is it the best solution? For just inline fuse holders.. why not the very basic? StingerXscorpion makes these- 2 studs, one on each end. Gold plated studs. You put your ring terminal in on one stud, ring terminal out on the other stud. Your ANL fuse blades also secure on the same 2 studs. This allows a seemless connection with no break in connection from the wire to fuse to wire again. And did i mention they are also the cheapest priced kind of inline as well?

And i forgot to mention.. They are hell to work with,

i have used them on their konfused battery terminals. DO NOT GET THOSE! The terminal itself is too large to properly secure around standard SAE battery posts.. therefore they NEVER lock down. I know this from experience.. and no not just from one, i went through 3 of them. As for the compression fittings, they are a bitch! The wire has to be exactly a certain length which is exactly not that long. Once you get the correct length.. then the problems start... Because the wire can't be that long to bend over, the cable itself likes to fall back into the hole because the wire wrapped on the outside isn't long enough to stay steady... Try holding some 1/0 steady and slightly pulled back AND tighten it down with a wrench about 20 turns before it's tight.. The cable can come loose at any time during those turns.. I hated it. I also hate jamming wire into a hole held by a screw too.. That's why i use ring terminals on everything. My personal reason is the wire can and will fray out of the hole over time. Ring terminals obviously wont do that and will not come loose either because of a strong fastener.

Then i would be trying to install a B pillar wall with 24 18s.. Same scenario..

this amp is also a 3600w amp, mike. And i cant remember, it's been a while since i've seen one of those amps in person but isn't it 2ohm stable?

OMG.. another fail attempt... The amps have once again failed to fit in the car with the new method... and other methods tried.. After 2hrs of thinking and trying, i have came up with another idea that is about the last resort.. 5 batts in the rear of the wall as is pictured above... The other 7 in the very rear as originally planned... 3 of my 6 amps will be mounted on top of the 5 batteries in the wall... This will be VERY tricky because it has got to be mounted in such a way to prevent air leaks from inside the wall AND withstand ~160db+ pressure from the other side of the wall... This will take some time and delicate technique to get right but luckily by doing this, my power and ground cable runs will actually be shorter now for all 6 amps which is kinda ironic. So for the mean time, it will be a slow progress getting all the amps installed so probably no pics for a while.

Can you ship some of these employees over here? You don't have to add insurance on them.. I'll fix em.

I disagree too.. This may be one big reason to stick with SSA. Don't want to flood the market with a bunch of the same stuff, especially from the same source.

According to something i read on a review just now, DO NOT WRITE YOUR NAME ON THE WAITING LIST! Some review said a customer told them to do this if they wanted to be seated... they got chased out just after...

Because he thinks that's the source of all activity

For a TV... yea, unless it's at least 120" For a projector, if the room is properly built, i could see retail of $10k projectors being reasonable based on some necessities that may be required.

Wonder what the new one would be called? We have a D-G-I-X-Z(con) right now... Maybe we'll get into numbers now? The 4Con?

when u say left contact on both sides and vice versa, you mean that the source doesn't play the way it should? Like dual Mono?

get an audio track stefanhinote and record something distinctive on the left only and something distinctive on the right only. Play this file in your car. See if both sides (stereo) play or not. I know nothing of this device but it kinda sounds like only 1 of the 2 rcas are being used but is somehow distributing the sound through all outputs.

U aint no playa chuck! My equipment stays long son, lmao.

u need 3rd party intervention. I don't use it but see if Tapatalk allows it. If it doesn't get photobucket app, upload your pics to there, then within the app, get the IMG link and copypaste in typing area.

Got first bottom row parallel together. They are not symmetrically wired because of something i can only explain in person.. In Chuck's words, fitting 100lbs in a 50lb bag.. This wiring method is the easiest to get all my amps connected efficiently to lower voltage drop potential. I am now working on preparing to start running external cables to 1 batt to complete half of the battery bank. Then this weekend, i will order the rest of the batts and train them up to 13.0v and then install them.

You better go out and buy u those sony 500s... It will motivate you to do more editing being able to hear the bass effect right at the pc.

aHA! I need either SPAX or SharX screws for the baffle. I know the SPAX screws are Grade 5 steel but the SharX doesn't say. Anyways, both are made for hardwood applications specifically for power drivers and lots of vibration exhibitions and extreme holding power. The threads on the screws have TEETH on them!

yea, my phone died.. I won't know for sure what's feasible until i get dimensions.

huh.. no DDs? Those amps must be wired at 1ohm..

You might want to move out of that area by tonight just in case. Here is a word from one of the News reporters that just "caught wind" of this storm recently. This is what he had to say-

Audio. Pictures are 1000 words.