shizzzon

u need to whip it out and probe it. Let me know how it goes. Or.. a more simple approach- Get a digital multimeter. Set meter to ohms. unhook all speaker wires from sub. probe EACH set of terminals on sub and see what readings are. If one side either reads nothing or constantly bounces around with crazy variances.. your sub is damaged.

you need to measure dcr with dmm then.

it's the sub. Get a multimeter and measure ohm value on each coil... But more importantly, take sub out of box first and look at it if you do nto have a meter. Is the tinsel leads burnt or snapped off? Is the spider burnt? Press down on the cone evenly distributed from above and see if you hear any scratching or scraping.

its 4 to X's? No pics? Wat r we suppose two bee waiting four?

last i heard the AQX line was discontinued.

this is the first i've ever heard of this timeframe. This will be informative for some locals.

the glue dries from the FUMES of the activator, the FUMES, not the spray itself. Very sensitive.

curious as to why u have to wait.... If you are using activator, which u should be, we competitors, have reconed subs from the time we tear them out til the glue dries on a new recone in less than 20min back in the lanes playing like new... because it is. Once activator is set.. you're done.. the end. Spray spray..... DONE. However long it took you to read the last sentence.. that's how long it took for the glue to dry.

he's messin with me. This NEW build will not take place here. When it's near completion, a new thread will be made and pics galore will be posted.

if it's internal, then it needs service. Take multimeter and put 1 probe on power cable terminal and take other probe and touch it to ground. When set to ohms, if it starts beeping or reading at or right around 0.. something is shorted out, not the amps fault...yet.

this thread isn't..

this isn't how it's gonna look, i was just gettin an idea of what space i had to work with-

well, even though i am not there but have a say in it since i do sell these meters.. There was a flaw.... The firmware being used on the meter was actually set wrong. I am not here to embarass anybody but point made is previous accusations of past scores were wrong, let's leave it at that. Point being... we as fellow car audio enthusiasts who especially compete do and will not tune as low as u kryptonitewhite, so the scores presented by teamramrod or anybody else in the future will typically not compete wth your setups. Your setups are obviously to help you learn and others together. Your scores are remarkable but unfortunately, car audio competitiveness is at a different level altogether. This whole debate is a nuisance and hopefully this post resolves it.

i can probably say pvc would be better. I've came across form tubes here that vary as much as 0.75" (~18mm) for the same rated size. That's unacceptable.

at first i didnt want to click the thread because i thought it was rated G, lol...

a charger for daily use isn't going to be used often... but when it's needed.. it's either use one u own, or remove the battery out of the car every time and take it to auto zone and pick it up the next day.... Now, for less than $100, convenience wins here in my opinion.

bout as many as a serial rapist

do NOT EVER use regular battery charger on AGM batteries and yes Kinetik is AGM.

the only time that's likely is if one or more batts in the vehicle has a bad cell. So.. regardless of what you find out soon, be prepared on buying a new battery AND charger.

uh oh.. maybe one of the coils is damaged.. Don't freak yet. Disconnect ALL wiring on the sub so u have access to each terminal independently. Measure ohm vaule at each terminal and tell me what u get.

u can wall it as long as you are not tight with money. IF you got around $600 layin around that can care less what it goes to, then wall isn't a bad idea. There is no set in stone value of how much it will cost to build it.. so don't expect to know prior to building it. And do not 4th order it if the subs are not designed for such enclosure... And you may not even have adequate room to 4th order 2 15s in that car either, don't know.... Anyways, you have extremely low power. I'd suggest build the largest wall possible so you have room for port because it's gonna be a fairly long port...

i'm gonna have to get one for my car. I believe because the parts inside are custom or at least not a high market for them... Who else makes a dual rectified ~400A alt with temp sensing.. DC over here tryin to monopolize, lol.

set multimeter to ohms then touch both probes together...(pointless to do this for this topic but good to learn) Whatever the meter reads, that's how "off" it is from 0. It's NORMAL if it's reads something other than 0. Mine reads 0.3 ohms when touching probes, for instance. You then take probes and touch the + and - on speaker terminal when amp is OFF completely! Whatever the meter reads after the numbers stop bouncing around, subtract your accuracy from it... In my example mine was off by 0.3 so i would subtract 0.3 ohms and that is the proper answer.

oh well, lol, that narrows it down.. And the survey says.....(ding) Headunit 99 99 people said headunit.

you also do not clip by not using an oscope either. And you also do not cause damage when clipping either. Everything is time-related... Clipping is not a direct cause of failure, but rather makes other things happen. I can sit here and clip anything regardless of power source and i not kill the transducer. IT's related to the time it's endured it, and the amount of mechanical and thermal stress it consumed.