SacredTanakh

No love for iPhones? spl lab does not support iPhone either. Also will there be a USB or all in one version?

What do you see it doing? Maybe it's like an "I see dead people" thing ... I think if I go absolutely bat shit crazy.. seeing hallucinations of subwoofers and amps wouldn't be all that bad personally.

My Sp4s have been taking ~4k for over a year without a single issue. Its not the woofer...

All new ssa, fi, ascendent, etc come with no holes in the surround portion. I usually just poke around with a pick tool and find the holes before I mount the woofer. Id rather have a small hole and have it seal up a little better, than to drill them out. Edit: Haha sorry was really tired, didn't mean to dig up a slightly old thread.

Build is going on hold for awhile, money is tight because I'm buying an 80's Volkswagen GTI. Decided to get into building a performance vehicle, as I have my slow loud luxury car. but ill be back guys!

Alright I got some good news! There is a dual alternator kit for my car! So I will be ordering another Singer alternator, and probably switch to a Transpo external voltage regulator. Hopefully all this will finally solve my voltage and charging issues. After that I can focus on the outside of the car, make her pretty. 55w HIDs, White Halos, Ace Executive 19in wheels in hypersilver, and I'm gonna lower it.

Woah woah guys, please. Its all good, no reason for anyone to get upset. I was hoping xspower would input a little bit, but since they haven't Ill call. Ill see what they say and if they decide to send me another one ill give it another shot. At this high of a price point you would think these units would have a better reputation for reliability. Ive read through quite a few threads on other forums of people having issues. I talked to Mike singer a bit more, and he also thinks its not acting at all the way it should. I mentioned the blue transpo external regulator, and since he stocks them Ill probably grab one of those in the end.

The stock alternator wiring isn't being used at all, but stock it would turn the alternator off when at low speeds for better gas mileage. One of the massive reasons I got a new alternator and why I'm not using the stock regulator.

The stock alternator wiring isn't being used at all, but stock it would turn the alternator off when at low speeds for better gas mileage. One of the massive reasons I got a new alternator and why I'm not using the stock regulator.

Singer said it sounds like a bad VCM. I'm going to use the regulator in the alternator for now, and buy one of the big blue external regulators that you sometimes see.

No just no, I'm not sure if you even read the post. Your post wasn't helpful at all because I already knew all this, and normally you'd be right but it's definitely not me turning up the alternator past 15.4 when I've been driving for 30+mins. Sometimes when I start the car the voltage is 12.8, sometimes it's over 16.

Simply speaking I am having an issue with the VCM going way over the supossed 15.2v limit. Sometimes when I start the car the VCM is so high that every aftermarket electronic device installed turns on and off over and over including the VCM. While doing this pulls my idle up and down also. Very bad for the electronics in my car, and being that its a 2013 300, I don't want to fry all the computers and such. The dip switches are set how the instructions say, and everything is installed very cleanly. Everything is soldered and shrink wrapped. It also sends everything into protect when im on the highway and there is a break in the bass, voltage spikes up like crazy. The other thing is it doesn't stay to what I set it to, it will often either drift down from what I set it to or up over time while driving. This thing seems extremely unstable, and the fact that I have to constantly babysit it just adds stress to my day. Hopefully you guys have a fix, although Ive heard lots of people have issues with XS and the mechman units. Thanks

Do you compete? Not really, it was built for demos.

I always just use the biggest wire that can fit in the push terminals, I managed to do 6gauge to my SP4s.

If anyone is using a XS power VCM or knows a lot about them, I could use some help. They seem simple enough and all but I'm having issues with it. The big issue that worries me is it likes to sometimes charge WAY over the voltage its supposed to. Ill see it flash to 15.9 then a ton of electronics in my car including the headunit will go into protect and turn off till it drops back down. I have the Dip Switches set the way the instructions tell you to for 12volts. According to the instructions the 12volt setting should keep it from going above 15.2, it definitely does not! It sketches me out because of how many stock electrical components are in the car such as the computers. I also cant seem to get it to stay at what I set it to, its very jumpy. I made sure to wire it exactly how the instructions say, and all connections are soldered, turned out very clean. not sure what the issue is, sometimes it seems to work really well.

If you look and read my post I ask about the suv and he told me the 300 set up than you asked about the morels I didn't realize you meant the explorer, he is doing 4 crescendo pwx 6.5s and 2 ft1s.

I know how that is, alton did a design for 6 ssa dcon 15s and my truck got wrecked before I had a chance to build it.

If I remember right the tweets are 5k 12slope, with the mids at 4k 18slope. I originally had both of them at 4k 18slope. But.. After I changed the tweeter location from stock to the apillars, they blended better with the tweet at 5k 12slope. EQ is flat. The tweets are only getting ~90w each, and the mids are getting ~600w each.

Head Blown Off - Evil Pimp (33andup)

ALL FI/SSA subs that I have bought have come with chips in the magnet, its not a big deal.. They are built to sound great, FI doesn't focus on every little detail cosmetically. If you want that, go with a brand that focuses on such things.

In the end I settled with 2 10in sundown neo pros, and 2 morel 378s. Very very happy with it.

depends on too many variables for anyone to just tell you a direct answer. BUT, its almost always better to have the sub loading off of a surface. So towards the rear is the likely answer.

Depends on how far they are away from each other, and the routing of the wire. You have to make a risk assessment. For mine there is no battery in the front of the car and the wire had to be run underneath nearly the whole length of the vehicle. In that situation obviously there is a lot of area that a short could happen so a fuse is highly advisable. If the battery is a foot away from the alternator like a lot of vehicles, and is routed correctly you shouldn't need one. Although.. I was putting an unmarked battery in my other car a few years ago.. in the dark.. and thought I saw red on the post so I hooked it up as power and it turned out to be ground. Burnt up the alternator because there was no fuse. Didn't harm anything else. Stupid mistake, should've paid closer attention and got a light.

Oh okay it's all good, don't work too hard