helotaxi

That poor basket. Can anyone say motor-brace? I see some shipping insurance claims in the future.

I hope 500 is enough since I'm only planning to run about 400. I've not heard that these are especially inefficient so I would think that 500 apiece should be plenty. That's based on experience with running a fairly inefficient sub on 400 and being perfectly happy. Having 3 subs will help you out a lot, too.

His are D2 aren't they? Otherwise, yeah, though I do prefer new.

Fair enough, had to ask though.

Been to the ER for that one. Nice shot of Benadryl and a good night's sleep and GTG. All but quit using MDF after that one. Def. don't use aged MDF anymore.

Really would like a pair of IXL 10s but I'm not liking the D2 coils. Any chance of some D1 or D4s? Sure would make running a pair on the likes of a 1500D more enjoyable. I'm sure they don't need 750 each, but the headroom would be nice.

Don't sell your install skills short. That's one of the cleanest DIY installs I've seen in a long time and looks better than a lot of the jobs I've seen shops charge big money for. Nice work!

I'm still very tempted to wait. I like the idea of the dual IXL 10s but I really like the idea of dual ICON 10s D1s. More headroom on the subs FTW. I do still like my Dynamix II, Techmaster and Bass Mekanik from time to time

Can't see the picture, filtered by the server here. Double check what the progaem actually says that the tuning is. A lot of times with WinISD you'll change one parameter of the box and it will alter a few others for you. But to answer your question, by definition min impedance for a ported enclosure is at resonance. This is where cone movement is minimal and thus the reactive part of the impedance is minimized and Re acounts for the majority.

Nope, Frontier. If I was in the market for a full size I'd be getting a Chevy/GMC. Just ordered the TB 6x9s. You happy John?

That's the one. Nothing pretty but it works.

Nope. The voltage from the amp should be the same and with only one load in the circuit (the driver) all the volatge drops across the one load. By adding the second fixed load in series, you can use the voltage drop across that load to figure out the impedance of the variable load. This is because the current through the circuit is inversely proportional to the impedance of the circuit and the voltage drop into the resistive load is proportional to the current going through it. By measureing the voltage on the fixed load you indirectly determine the impedance of the variable load at that freq. Sean, something seems wrong with your numbers. The impedance is minimum at tuning for a ported box which would mean highest current which would mean highest voltage drop across the resistor, no? Your numbers work for a sealed box with an Fb of 33 hz but not a ported one unless I'm missing something.

If the 1000D looked like the rest of the Sundown amps I'd pick one of those up with a single 12, but alas... 2 10s upfiring would be nice. Now to figure out how to make the grills...er...rear seats that would still be usable (at least for the dog, though he's kinda heavy) and give the subs some room to breathe. I think that I've got a good idea on that but it hinges on being able to find factory match upholstery cloth...shouldn't be too hard, I have a lead on that part.

I got to researching the TBs and they don't match up with the standard 6x9 mounting holes. They're slightly bigger and more oval than ellipsoid in shape. Not concerned that can't make them fit, just wont be the drop in replacement that I hoped for. I may still go that route, though; not 100% decided.

The rest of the system is mostly purchased. Kenwood DNX-8120 Altomobile Drive 30 3x Sundown SAX-100.2 Sundown SAZ-1500D Hybrid Legatia L31-2 set Midbasses still to be decided (probably Dayton Reference 8s) Mach5 IXL 10 or 12 (still have to decide on that one two) Got my dealer looking for the right truck now. Install will start the moment it gets home. I'm picking up wood on the way home from the dealership.

Ant at Second Skin just got about $450 and the guys at Knu around $250. Bulk pack of Damplifier Pro and 4 sheets of Lux Liner Pro. That should be enough for a King Cab I would think. 50' of 1/0 KLMX, 40' of 4ga KLMX, 20' of Karma 10ga speaker wire, 100' of Karma 16ga and 2 pairs of Klarity 4m RCAs. All wiring hardware is getting reused from the previous system and is Stinger Xpert. Build log will begin in about a month.

Butydine and butyl are not the same thing.

Which doesn't cause a lack of output, quite the opposite actually. Oh, dear, God. Not nearly that high. 100 is fine, any higher than that and you start getting into midrange and you certainly don't want the sub playing that. With the box being too big, power handling is only decreased in the lower range of freqs. You might need the SSF to keep the sub from bottoming out in the big box. SSFs aren't stforported boxes and it is verypossibleto bottom a sub in a sealed box with low freqs.

Thanks. Now I just have to decide 10 or 12...

Final question...what's the mounting depth of the 10 and 12? Can't seem to find that bit of info anywhere... Edit:...except a few threads down. How about the 12 and how much clearance for the pole vent?

Guess it depends on the desktop. I've never built one with less than a 250w powersupply. That would indicate to me that you would need over 300w on the invertor to make sure that you can adequately power any peripherals.

Sound along the lines of what I'm looking for. Any other input?

How would you best characterize the IXL series of subs? Made to be accurate? Made to get loud? Somewhere in the middle? Reason that I'm asking is I'm looking for a sub for a small sealed box to integrate with a system built with musical accuracy in mind.

Can you get Mark to add that to the page in the shop? Guess that rules that out...still trying to decide on a sub

A single 6" port would be just over 5ft long and a pair of 4" would be just under 5ft. That sounds practical...ok probably not.