helotaxi

I'm 6'3" myself. Not terribly restrictive at all. As badass as the F-15 is (we used to refer to it as God's jet) the F-22 makes it look like an amatuer's tool. Friend of mine was flying an F-16 against an F-22 during the testing. 4xF-16 against 1xF-22. The F-22 won 4 of 4 and no engagement lasted longer than 1 min from "fight's on." The 16s tried every dirty trick in the book and it was like clubbing baby seals for the Raptor. They saw him once. Never got him on radar.

Those Daytons are the Dayton 8s. As far as reselling drivers if they aren't getting the job done, that's not in my nature. I think I've sold 2 amps, a pair of speakers and a pair of EQTs ever. I have a room in my house that is filled with amps and subs that I may never use again, but they'll look really cool in the display case when I open my shop in 10 years or so... I also plan on building this thing once and calling it good. The tuning may take months, but the build will be involved enough that I'm not going to wnat to redo it for a long time so getting ti right the first time is important.

I was really interested in either of those except the coil configs/amp power don't match up at all. Two BM's would be beat to death by the 1500D @ 1 ohm and the amp would be basically a waste @ 4 ohms. A single mag would die horribly on the 1500D and a pair would be OK except that I would end up with a box taller than I want. If you figure 5.5" depth +1" for pole vent clearance + 3/4" for MDF thickness + 2 1/2" for cone clearance from the floor (ideally more) you're looking at 9 3/4". I can do the 8s in 8 1/2"... Dammit. I can't get on the SI forum from here. Any word on when the new Mags will be available?

If you were on an Air Force base and they were dual engine fighters, they were either F-15s or F-15Es. They were nowhere near the sound barrier, they fly around at about 250kts (around 300MPH) below 18,000ft and they take off much slower than that. I'm guessing that you were at Fairchild? Dave-all aircraft use full throttle for take-off, especially fighters. Period. 11 yrs as an Air Force pilot speaking. For the record, the SR-71s had their own fleet of KC-135s that were specially equipped to carry the JP-7 that they burned. The fuel would eat through the tank liner in a regular tanker. No KC-10s were ever modded because they weren't fast enough and there weren't any to spare.

I did find myself cursing JL for not making an 8W6v2 just a bit ago, and not for the first time either. And yes I do wish there was a Dayton HO 8 as well. 8" Fi Qs would be a nice addition as well...

Great sub. Def worth the amp upgrade to keep it.

With just 2 ported, the port is bigger than the enclosure and still wants a tuning around 38-40 hz. Too high. Planning to set the LPF in the 50 hz region. Totally the wrong configuration for what I want.

The amps will be mounted vertically along the back wall of the cab with a cover that includes the rear seat pads for the jump seats. Wrapped in matched vinyl it should look just about stock.

I'm in the process of getting all the components together for the SQ install going in my new truck in August. I'm trying to nail ldown the last piece of the puzzle, the bottom octave (or two). The vehicle is a 2007-2008 (there are still new 2007s around) Nissan Frontier King Cab. The system goal is accurate reproduction at listenable levels. The rest of the system consists of a Kenwood DNX-8120 (the wife insisted that I get the more expensive unit with the nav functions), an Altomobile Drive 30 (extremely powerful 6 channel processor that does filtering, time alignment, EQ and a few other things independently for each of the 6 channels), active front stage consisting of a set of Hybrid Legatia L31-2s (will be glassed into the a-pillars) and a pair of Tang Band neo 6x9 subs (in the doors). Front stage will be powered by a trio of Sundown 100.2s. The delima now goes to the subs. The plan is to build an enclosure that is right around the height of the rear jump seats and use the jumpseat pads to disguise the box to keep the install as stealth as possible. This steers me toward 8" subs firing forward with a removable grill covering them. I could do 10's or 12's downfiring, but, between the mounting depth of the subs and the space needed to clear the floor in a downfiring config, the height ends up right about that needed for 8s but with a larger box requirement. Since I'm only really needing the subs to take care of 50hz and below, cone area is important, so 3-4 subs will be used depending on coil config. I'll probably be looking for a sealed setup for reasons of enclosure size and accuracy. For power I have a Sundown 1500D that will be more than enough power for what I want. Here are the subs I'm considering in no particular order: Sound Splinter Orphan 8 (x3) Pros: Tiny box, should be able to handle that bottom octave with some authority Cons: Discount price ends before I'll have all the info I need to make a decision, will allow the least headroom from the amp JL 8W3v3 (x4) Pros: Small box, JL reputation (I've always been impressed with the JL 8s), readily available, should be able to handle the bottom octave well Cons: Not inexpensive, might not like the power I have on tap (I'd have to dial down the gains for sure) JL 8W7 (x3) Pros: Will kill the lows, will like 500w each Cons: Most expensive option (by a pretty good amount, I'd probably spread the purchase of these out over a few months unless I found a dealer willing to hook me up for buying 3), need a pretty big box (but the fact that there's only 3 helps a bit) SSA 8 (x? depends on coil config available) Pros: Keeps it in the family (as it is right now all my major components are SSA member products), great reputation Cons: A lot of unknowns (including release date and cost, but I'm not goin to make a decision until these are finalized or I'm headed home) Ascendant Audio Assassin mk1 (x4) Pros: I already have the 4 that I would need, tiny box Cons: Worried about the bottom end in a sealed box Dayton RSS210HF-4 (x4) Pros: Fairly inexpensive, should be one of the best on the very lows Cons: Not sure how they'll like the power (though not too worried), probably want the largest box That's the rundown as I see it. If anyone has any insight or anything that I'm forgetting, that's the purpose if this thread. Cost isn't a huge factor. I buy good equipment and keep it forever so I don't mind spending money for good stuff. Remember I'm looking for an accurate driver that can get low. Output is not much of a consideration at all. EDIT: didn't realize what a book I'd written...

everything on the Brahma was black and white

Ahhh, public school "educations." Apparently literacy is a term used quite liberally these day. Translation: sqguyib, you lack the ability to express your thoughts in written form (and i v'e got a feeling verbal as well since most people write like they talk). I've yet to read a post of yours in which I could follow a coherent thought process or a logical progression of thought.

Why 2 Legatia sets? Just one set will sound better and the difference in loudness will be wreaked by the phase interference. No point in going active with time alignment capability if you can't align each driver individually. The results will be disappointing at best. You'd be better served giong with 2 Clarus sets and aligning them each off their own channel using the passives that come with them. Nice choice on the truck, BTW. I'll be getting a new one when I get home in Aug.

Sounds like an old Adire Brahma (?)

If you're going with two amp, go with separate enclosures for the two subs. You'll get better results. Build two of the recommended boxes. If you don't understand how you tune a sub, you probably will be better off with a sealed box until you learn about tuning more.

That's taller than I want to go. The plan is to build a box for a single row of 8s (3 or 4 depending on the subs I decide on) in the extended portion of a Frontier King Cab. The top of the box will have the pads from the jump seats put on it to make it look stock to the casual observer and the amp rack along the back wall of the cab will have a cover that includes the back pads for the jump seats for the same reason. It will leave the jumps sort of functional for seat for people, completely functional for the dog (the intended passenger back there) and still leave room for a sweet stereo. The finalists in the sub hunt right now are these, SSA's big ass 8s (depending on final specs and release date), Dayton REF210HFs (4 of them) and JL 8W7s. I'll discuss more in the correct forum.

3 wires to 2 ohms, 4 to 1.5. Power per sub is the same (or close enough) either way. Budget wise and width wise, I'm more comfortable with 3. 6 would be great (and get full power out of the amp), but I don't have that much money or room. 6 ohm coil isnt' that big a deal unless your into playing numbers games. I'm not, so I don't care. I don't try to match up RMS ratings or any of that business. I know that I've gotten plenty of output for me with 400 watts on the sub setup. Roughly double that will be more than enough for me.

Fi is at least nice enough to admit that there is a difference in specs between the D1 and D2 versions of the same subs. As for what the difference is going to be on the audible side, hard to say and probably not at all worht worrying about. Pick your amp and buy the coil config that you need to get the correct load for the amp.

And the actual filter point is also called the half power or -3dB point. If both the highs and lows are down 3dB at 60 hz, assuming phase is correct, they will sum to righ around flat. In most cases there is a small bump in the response right at the corssover freq if both the high an low pass are set to the same freq. This can be fixed with a slight underlap of the freqs.

They are sealed and extend through the door panel into the door. Not sure on the exact volume but they will house a CDT ES-06+ comfortably, so depth isn't an issue. They are bolted to the door plastic from the inside, so you could take them off to paint a different color or cover them in vinyl or whatever.

That's what I'm hoping...

Couple the SSF with the LPF and you have bandpass for the mids.

How small are you talking sealed for the 8? I'm thinking 3 wired to 2 ohms on a 1500D...

An active setup can only sound as good as the person tuning it can get it. It's no magic solution, in fact it's much more involved that a simple drop in install. There is a lot of tuning involved. If you don't have the patience, time or ability to set up an active system a basic passive sytem will be a better solution for you. You also have to look at the processing capability that you have on hand. If you only have a basic crossover, using the passive crossover supplied with a good component set with more power (larger two channel vs. a lees powerful 4-channel for the same money) will many times sound better. A good passive network isn't going to be terribly lossy to begin with and factor in abour 50% more power to each driver and the extra headroom can really make a difference. If you have the ability to control the crossover freq, level, phase, time alignment, and EQ for each channel, and know how to set it all up the difference can be worth it. For 99% of the people out there though, basic passive components are more than good enough.

JL subs sound best sealed.

SRT-4 also has silver door pulls on the inside, but these panels are built on the regular Neon panels and have handles that match the panel color. They were made for 6.5" mids and housed CDT es-6s originally and then ES-06+s. They are painted silver to match my car/radio trim and the tweeter pods are as well. There's a pic of them somewhere, I think in the build log section, but I can't see the pics (blocked on my gov't computer). EDIT: Pics in this thread: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=8474