helotaxi

Won't need nearly that kind of power for IB with pretty much any driver. Having some headroom is one thing but you're going to get no help on the mechanical power handling side from the enclosure. Mechanical handling is probably going to be much lower than the thermal (rms rating).

Time alignment is nice, but it can't correct for aiming issues. It doesn't change the sound propagation of the driver. You don't want to alter the doors, so having the midbasses playing up too high is going to mess with things because you can't aim them. I haven't seen the inside of the doors in your truck, but chances are that there is some space between the door panel and the sheet metal. That space will sometimes allow you to go with a larger driver spaced out from the sheetmetal that will still "fit" in the smaller hole in the door. Bigger is better. If you could fit a shallow 8" woofer (not a sub just a basic bass driver) spaced out a bit, that would be the best route to go. Like I said though, not sure how much room you have to work with but something to think about. From there if you're going to consider glassing a mid into the kickpanel, put the tweeter right next to it. That will allow you to aim it. With a dome mid and tweet combo in the kick, you can do quite a bit without a lot of room. The fact that most dome mids propagate better than cone drivers is nice in that regard since you don't have to angle them as much for good results. The problem with a dome mid is where the lower crossover point usually has to be. You typically have to go pretty high which as discussed above is less than optimal for midbasses mounted in the stock door locations. If you could fit a small cone mid in the kicks on a bit of an angle that would probably work out better. For the tweets, don't focus on material. You can't categorize sound on dome material with good drivers. Since you're going 3 way, the tweet can (and should) be crossed higher than a normal 2-way allowing the mid to do its job and play as much of the spectrum as it can. Because of this you don't have to concentrate on finding a tweet with a low Fs, you only care about response on the top end and if you aim them in the kicks near the mids, off axis response becomes less important as well. After saying all that, I don't have anything specific to recommend as far as drivers go.

Not really any different assuming that there is room in the factory cutout for it and you have a dash kit. You'll have to install the GPS antenna but that's pretty straightforward. There's usually a DVD lockout that goes to the e-brake, but again straightforward.

Small box + low tuning = long ass port. Your biggest challenge is going to be getting a port (or ports) of sufficient area to fit. How deep are the subs and how much power are you thinking about? Also what coil config?

Jasper sells a jig that will go from around 2" out to around 18". I have one of the first ones that you linked (the second link doesn't work) and a larger one. I personally use a 1/4" spiral upcut (looks like an endmill) bit. Much quieter than a straight-cut and does a much better job of applying the cutting forces to the piece being cut and allows you to cut some really thin-walled rings. I've done 1/8" wall thickness rings in 3/4" MDF without breaking them.

Pretty sure that it's a parametric EQ. Knob for freq, one for Q and one for gain.

IIRC slope 0 means that the filter is turned off.

Now just clean up the rest of the install and you'll have something to really be proud of.

In that case, go with 60A or so on the AGUs and 250A on the main power cable. Single run of 1/0 would then suffice.

Boat supply places will have some nice big ANL fuses, but you have to consider the max rated amperage of the wire that you're running as well. 4x8ga out of the distros to the amp, right? 8ga isn't rated for 100A. 1/0 from the battery? 1/0 isn't rated for 400A. You'll need dual battery runs and to fuse the distro correctly for the 8ga. A fuse can handle more than its rated capacity in short bursts so I wouldn't be too concerned about making sure that you get 400A worth of fusing in the distro block.

He said that they were 8ohm in the first post. I'd not do this, but if I had to, I'd just use an active crossover.

Why'd you go with AGU fuse blocks? You also realize that the contacts in most all fuse holders are only rated for 80A. Those amps are current hogs of the worst kind. You are going to have to upgrade the alt. That amp will draw 3-4 times the current of the Sundown. I had worse dimming and voltage drops in my car with a 2100HCCA running 2 ohms (about 800w give or take) than I do with my 1500D. Class A/B vs. Class D is a huge difference. I'd love to have a VLX but no way I'd put it in the car (partly because of the current requirement but mostly because it won't fit). It'd hang on the wall with the rest of my Old School amp collection.

Don't remember any of the USA series 2-channels having a crossover. The B-52 mono amp and the 442 did also.

The people that talk about "underpowering" assume that everyone wants what they want, max volume. They think that if the amp is only capable of delivering half the rated power of the sub then the sub is underpowered. A sub is only underpowered if it has potential to take more power and get louder and it isn't loud enough for you. I ran a XXX 12 for quite some time on an amp that couldn't deliver 25% of the rated power of the sub. It was more than loud enough for me and sounded excellent. I "upgraded" amps 2x to run more power on the sub and other than the ability to get a little louder on the top end there was no difference. The same people think that unless you are running the amp balls out all the time you are wasting it, too. Most of these people wouldn't recognize actual quality sound if it showed ID before it kicked them in the junk. Talk to Jim about the sound quality that can be had from a tiny amount of power.

Should measure "inaudible" for both.

Do you have a source capable of providing an optical signal to the processor? If not, that feature doesn't mean a lot. You will need the controller or one of the Alpine units capable of the controlling the 701. You will need a Palm PDA for the 360. If you have a Palm and don't have one of the Alpine HU/controllers, that would make the decision pretty easy. Same if the opposite were true.

Whatever works. You can search for a good ground point somewhere on the body, or just go right to the battery.

I'd suggest a sealed box using the dimensions that you had above. Around 3 cubes total for the two subs after displacements or 1.5 per sub.

Have you measured the electrical resistance of those welds? The heat of the welding process changes the electrical properties of the steel and not for the better. The number of welds used are overkill so that a bunch can be of less than ideal quality and still hold the panels together. Lawyers win over engineers when it comes to design every time. Even if they were all perfect, they still aren't all in the current conducting path. The resistance is still and unknown quantity. A lot of people use the chassis as a ground because it is good enough for their purposes, that is far from qualifying it as the ideal ground for every situation. Low power, sure, it's fine and it's simple. Low current means low voltage drop regardless of resistance. Start getting into higher power situations and the ground becomes hugely important to getting good performance from the amps.

0.69 on the sub outs with a 50Hz tone isn't right when you get 3.6 with a 1 khz tone, but you probably knew that. I'm not too familiar with the function of the 9887 and what might cause that. It's going to be a "duh" moment when you find it though, rest assured. The only though I have is that you're either testing the wrong outputs or the sub and rear outputs are mislabeled and you have a HPF on the channels that you are testing.

The 9887 has 3 pairs of outputs, front, rear (or high, mid) and sub. The sub output has its own easily accessed volume control and is only capable of being low passed. It isn't affected by the fader control since it is independent of the other two outputs.

Yes, a lot of steel would theoretically conduct a lot of current but the majority of the steel in the car does not lie in the conducting path between the usual ground and the battery ground strap. All that steel does you no good. Electrical current doesn't flow through the entire mass of steel of the car. That isn't the path of least resistance. The chassis in effect acts like a very large number of small conductors of differing resistance wired in parallel. The current flows along all these pathways in inverse proportion to the resistance of each pathway. If there is a pathway with very low resistance, it will carry the bulk of the current. It's this multi-path concept that most people fail to account for when considering how good a conductor a unibody car or the body of a truck really are. Each vehicle is different, not just make and model, but individual vehicles. Quality of welds, uniformity of the steel's alloy, stress risers in the steel from forming, lap joints, etc... It all makes for a giant "?" when asking how good of a conductor is a unibody. On the flip side, I can tell you almost exactly how good a conductor a piece of copper wire of a given gauge is. Next what are you considering when you talk about "can conduct?" Capacity before thermal failure? Who cares. Sure the massive hunk of steel can shed more heat than a tight bundle of wire, but it will also generate more since it presents 10x the resistance per unit cross sectional area. It's that 10x resistance that is the limiting factor. Who cares if the the chassis can conduct a retarded amount of current before it melts, it's the voltage drop due to resistance that is important. The frame on a truck is different because it is a large continuous piece of high cross sectional steel that runs the whole length of the vehicle and can take you right to the battery if you make sure to upgrade the chassis ground strap in front. Single path of high cross sectional area, pretty much ideal.

You're thinking about the XES-P1 for the EQ and XES-X1 for the crossover and time alignment.

Has nothing to do with welds. The body is rubber mounted to the frame. There are a few small braided ground straps that connect the body to the frame. Grounding through a bolt to another wire that goes to the frame will work fine. Make sure you have a good connection above and below on the bolt. John, if you can measure the resistance it's too high.

Two years in Montana (27 below was the high on Christmas day the last year I was there) and no problems. When it gets cold, humidity drops really low, first off, and second condensation occurs when the surface is colder than the surrounding humid air, not on warm surfaces in cold air.