jonbearsmt

i have a full frame car, so for me, the big three..plus a alt ground to frame in front then i just go right off the frame in the rear to my battery banks.. shizzon runs unibody frame, and i think its best to run a ground front to back .. less resistance ... a uni body has welds upon welds that add resistance,

the back will always be lower... more runs of wire normaly help

what did they do to it??? i would always ask for a detailed list of all work and parts they have put into it.

very nice.. the Icons sound great too.... i have a single 15 inch ican on a JL 500/1 (WAY under powered) and it WANGS in 2 door honda accord. it also retains SQ, even more so i would belive in a sealed encloser.. if fact i plan to build a sealed for her soon.

night shade V1's with ZV3 spiders, 10's lots off nalgas no SA... are you saying you want a more SQ type sub. that can get down when needed.?

WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN YONG MAN!!!!!!!! i have seen you lurking for days.. i tried to PM you with no responce... steve has 2 SA V1 10's for sale.. one needs to be reconed... WAY worth it.. and out put like a boss!!! good to see you back

gotcha. thanks... and i guess every one is saying it..so it must be true.. but im hard headed, and i love to be "off beat:" in a way. so i guess im listening to everything that is said.. .and thank you for your advice. ill keep bumping until i get enough opinions or i make up my mind..... but i am looking to be off the beating path.

yes yes and more yes... frankly im offended that you didnt ask my take first... i have less then 1/4 of a bottle of jegger drunk so.... just keep that in mind. you know me.

well the first thing that comes to mind, is the sundown NEOPRO 8... skinny motor.. but im sure that the motor is deeper then 3 inches,. how much room is between the door pannel and the door ?

wow... thats odd... how deep is it to the glass.... because the basket just has to be shallow.. the motor can be as deep as the window... pics of the OEM speaker? vehicle type would help to

well what im talking about has 14 dioeds far from 4, its made to do what im talking about..

yes sir i do . thanks!

im not trying to use this thinking that i am some how making a high out put alternator. i understand that rotor and the stator need to be upgraded .. i looking to ADD this make it better,.

that shit was awsome. blew my mind,

SOUNDS LIKE A CHALLENGE SIR!!!!!!!!! if i got a hand job for every time they said "jon you cant do that"

in the future i may, but 1 they want over 5 bills for one.. and secondly i will still have the issue of losing power from heat and transfer, and i have always had a problem with the 4Gs with burning up rectifiers .. in fact i saved one a off the black towncar that melted and almost caught fire.

im pretty sure the phone number is for dealers only... all other sale need to go thru http://www.sundownaudio.com/ or email [email protected] thats how it has always been unless something changed

make sence ??? in my black lincoln i cooked rectifires left and right.. so much so that i kept a spare H/O alt i would switch them out and rebuild as needed about every 3 months,. so this time im looking not to have to do so .. i m looking to gain the power im loseing to heat back.. and NOT cook my factory, nor my H/O when i get it. let me know.. ok here goes Alternators make AC (alternating) current using a bridge rectifier with diodes to convert that AC current into DC (direct) current for use by the vehicle's electrical system. When your alternator's voltage regulator senses the need for electricity the regulator tells the alternator to start making electrical power. The alternator is then turned on and making electricity it taking power from the engine to generate the electrical power in the alternator, the more electrical power an alternator makes the more it costs. Here's where and how you loose some electrical power from your alternator. When your alternator is making AC power, which you pay for, and your bridge rectifier cannot transfer that AC power to DC it gets rid of it in the form of heat. You pay for generating power, then some of it gets wasted in the form of heat, because the alternator's internal rectifier is not efficient enough to transfer all the AC power, which you paid for, into DC power. To top it off, the more demand you put on your alternator the internal bridge rectifier becomes less efficient and more power is wasted. So if you are powering an HHO system or some other continuous demand system you are paying even more. "the small part " and "the big part" help recover that wasted power by tapping into the alternator stator leads where the AC power is generated. By taping into these AC lines before they go into the alternators internal bridge rectifier the external rectifier is offering a more efficient pathway out of the alternator in transferring the AC power generated into DC power. The increased throughput of higher amperage rated diodes, larger wires and a high volume fan to keep the remote rectifier cool work together to create greater efficiency and less wasted power. "the small part" rectifier is rated at 210 amperes, the" big part "' is rated at 420 amperes, much higher than any alternators internal bridge rectifier. Because of the recovery of formerly wasted power you can power your system, whether it's your stereo, HHO System, Emergency vehicle, or other high demand system for less money and less down time. the "small or the big part " will make electrical systems work better and your alternator's bridge rectifier last longer. both "parts" can be connected to just about any alternator by an experienced alternator technician. Our Unique remote rectifier system helps recover wasted power from your alternator plus adds greater durability against bridge rectifier failure caused by heavy use.

http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/LampReplacementGuide/AutoLRG-Results.htm size guide

my 8's sound GREAT!!!

great topic, im sure many will find this helpful, its awesome that you are willing to help people DYI... above and beyond,. thanks jacob

why the SSd?

those have an issue with water dripping down into the last 2 cylinders on the passenger side.. 7 and 8.. some times from the heater core, some times from heavy rain, some times from a hard car wash... the motor sits far back under the dash and the cowl sits right over the last 2 cylinders.. also i have seen intermediate failer of the single over head coils a cheap fix, around 50 bucks. . hopefully its somthing simple like that

IMO way better then either of the choices you listed... the amps are proven power houses,

something tells me you should have gotten a different woofer