liljestrand

Just a question lantz. If you didnt check out the coils how can you put the blame on wherever you bought the subs from. What if you did get them with 4 ohm coils. How can you prove that? How do we know that you didnt mess up the subs. Sure you shouldnt have to check it but humans make errors. Companies make errors. It happens. If you go to mcdonalds and order a burger with no onions are you just gonna eat the burger assuming it has no onions. Orare you going to check to make sure Iit has no onions .

Id be a lil ticked about the subs but you had way too many chances to check things. Why werent you suspicious when you recieved the subs and it had that sticker. Even a decent dmm from radioshack or autoparts store is 20-30 bucks. There is no reason to not have one. Looking at the big pic it seems to be stupid to tempt fate on gear worth 500+$ when such a simple cheap tool would have saved you. Lastly im wondering why the buyer didnt ask for a pic of the readings of the coils. Everyone ask for a pic of them.

I didnt get twisted or serious about anything. Your title says epic trolling. Myself and others simply pointed out thst no trolling had taken place.

Kyle post about JP quite a bit, Im assuming he's just waiting for the day that jp lets kyle give him a mustache ride.

The only thing i got from this post/video is that kyle doesn't know what trolling is. This was far from that, just a dude standing outside a rig in a thong.

Someone read an article on cracked todayI see I'm not the only one. Love reading their list

Someone read an article on cracked today

I really need a table saw.

He just sent me a message on fb. Hopefully he gets you taken care of alain

I know that his site was hacked or something to that effect and he finally got it working again. Lemme send him a message on facebook

I have 2 of the m1s. Very potent amps and people have been wiring them down stupid low. I want to get the new m1u's 14k each if you can keep around 15 volts.

Just a comment on the bt connectivity. Mine connects to my note 2 in about 10 seconds.

Shogen you could have asked me, I would have been able to give you a general idea. optimus_prime they are really good at getting things shipped out. My xc's made it from Denmark to the oregon coast in 2 days. Can't wait to see what you think about these. I got a couple of friends on team b2 running cc's and putting up big numbers. Ryan Poundstone gave Nic Watts a run for his money in lightweight bassboxing with 2 cc 12's in a rex.

I usually cut one baffle, then glue the second on and use a flush trim bit so all holes are equal.

found a leak in the tank, along with 2 others but all good now. the door pods look like shit atm. I had to throw them in to get ready for a comp next week and this will give me an idea on how they work out before i get too into it. will be a lot more "prettying" up after the comp in a week. Just trying to get where I can get points and atm I have no garage and the rain is killing me.

Nope not yet

I need it fixed also aaron its driving me nuts

starting the battery box.

if you have dual ones your only gonna be able to strap at .125 each, .5 each, or 2 ohm each. Since you will be either wired to .25, 1, or 4 ohms.

Sadly its not drivable that low lol. Can't turn the wheel at all.

I should clarify that. Its the turn on wire for my digital air ride management.

I'm fighting an electrical problem with it atm. Theres a wire running to the front that you are supposed to tap into an ignition source. well for some reason that wire is not working. I have no clue what is wrong with the wire at all. It has power all the way through the wire front to back but for some reason its not telling the air ride system to turn on. It reads 14.9 front to back in various spots. But if i take the wire in the back and hook it straight to battery the system turns on. The only thing I can think of is maybe 14.9 is too high of voltage for it? Since the battery I had it hooked to was only 12.7 volts. Which if thats the case seems awefully stupid but I can't really think of what else it is. Any ideas?

I'm fighting an electrical problem with it atm. Theres a wire running to the front that you are supposed to tap into an ignition source. well for some reason that wire is not working. I have no clue what is wrong with the wire at all. It has power all the way through the wire front to back but for some reason its not telling the air ride system to turn on. It reads 14.9 front to back in various spots. But if i take the wire in the back and hook it straight to battery the system turns on. The only thing I can think of is maybe 14.9 is too high of voltage for it? Since the battery I had it hooked to was only 12.7 volts. Which if thats the case seems awefully stupid but I can't really think of what else it is.

all thread and 2x4 bracing on the back. mocking up the batt rack. trying out some new rca's. Got 2 pairs of 4 channels. bracing and port wall added. Back end fully aired up ready for audio. toaster slammed. tomorrow meeting up with some buddies to get the inside resined up and hopefully get the amp rack figured out.