Aaron Clinton

Fuckity fuck buckets!!!!!!!!! SOB!!!!!!!! GAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Damn, you appear to have the up graded wheels too!! I am going to demand someone ride in the truck with you during some WOT 0-elevntybillion romps to film it. One of the greatest N/A V-8's of our time!! Now you can buy a bigger boat to at least challenge the torques of this rolling oxymoron. DO NOT WANT GAS BILL. Sick truck, you knew I would love it. The thrust is unreal, and really intoxicating. Well done Sean!

I just got back on, I am working my way back wards, have not seen the surprise just yet.

There were one of the ones I was peaking at: http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/264-902s.pdf

Sure, let's call it $270 + shipping. Edit: Just so people know what I am giving a quote for: 1 x US Amps MD-21 + 1 x SSA Dcon 12S4 A serious SQ sub/amp bargain. Thought I would quote myself for effect if anyone was interested.

:grouphug:

Shit no http://www.fukung.net/random ^^^ great waste of time Blocked at the office.

Rum of course.

First mistake. Early AM, cappuccino Any time later in the day, espresso coffee/americano is only for when eating something that it pairs very well with. Yes, opinionated I am.

:bigok: :bigok:

They are shipping in bunches at a time. We will update a number of people on tracking at once as soon as we get it.

The hope is to get them down as far as I can, towards the bottom of the A-pillar. I lost the link because it was last night when I was reading it, but one person mentioned aiming the FR's up reflecting off the glass to raise the stage and reduce any beaming. Eek. Stop reading recommendations. Just build some temporary pods and aim them all around yourself. EVERY driver and EVERY car/dash will be different. It was just what someone else did in their install that I had not thought of for a FR. That someone either has funny ears, got really lucky, has a very unusual car, or just did something and is now defending it. If it was for a smaller portion of the midrange it could be a different story, but when you are dealing with 250-20kHz (+/- some nominal amount) then it is a dangerous proposition to play with reflections. Your best bet is always to minimize them, not to "use" them. Agreed.

The hope is to get them down as far as I can, towards the bottom of the A-pillar. I lost the link because it was last night when I was reading it, but one person mentioned aiming the FR's up reflecting off the glass to raise the stage and reduce any beaming. Eek. Stop reading recommendations. Just build some temporary pods and aim them all around yourself. EVERY driver and EVERY car/dash will be different. It was just what someone else did in their install that I had not thought of for a FR.

So if I go this route, 8053 > 880?

The hope is to get them down as far as I can, towards the bottom of the A-pillar. I lost the link because it was last night when I was reading it, but one person mentioned aiming the FR's up reflecting off the glass to raise the stage and reduce any beaming.

Me neither and i have heard 2 other setups like this, no problems on the top end. One of them switched from Vifa XT25's to FR's and his top end improved a bit. Might have been aiming though. Having the unused tweeters in the a-pillars managed to fool a lot of people. Sean, I think you mentioned buying several pairs of FR's and testing out which one sounds better. Given their pricing that is a very good idea. Aaron, can the 8053 high-pass the tweeter outputs low ? As in 200-300hz ? I know the Pio 880 can't and neither can Alpines older than the 9833/9835. That is a good question. I have not used it in over a year. Maybe someone can jump in that knows off hand.

It will be a little bit. We have something else in the works, and release date or order is not set yet.

I forgot to mention, Brads final POV on the 603CF's will effect the direction I take with this.

I am kind of the same way, when using the 8053, I am usually dialing some out on the very top. Not to mention, I just have never found a metallic tweeter that is supposed to really excel in that crisp high range, that I really liked. The one I could bare the most was from my last 3-way passive set up, the stupid expensive MBQ QSD's of yore.

The goal is the best response possible with in my install limitations, while returning to active. Rear whaaaa? In that thread above, there is a very nice listing of possible audio advantages of going this route. One of those being, in my particular install is bringing as much of the stage up around shoulder level as possible.

The aiming issue is what is mentioned in the thread linked above from Don. I was hoping to have the RF come in around 350-800hz and take off from there. The more I can bring forward and lower I can keep the Carbons the better.

Thanks for the reply. There are some new TB's that spec nicely that I was looking at, along with the Aura's etc. I am hoping not to have the need to want to add a tweeter to this set up as it would defeat some of the purpose for me to go with a Full Range driver for the top end.

They are not made yet, this is a group buy.

Active 2-way with Full Range driver for the top end? This is not meant to be a pick my driver for me topic. My new dilemma is because of Adrian, he put the full range bug in my ear and I am starting to question my plans. I am not as versed in full range drivers as many others are on this board, so why not use the knowledge base. Setting: car - Mazda Protege5 wagon original front stage plans - Bravox CF603CF's power - many to choose from, so not an issue mounting location - FR's or mid/tweet would have to be at the base of the A-pillars (small manual car with no real room in the foot wells) Now where I am questioning my plans is that I have not had a passive set up in years, but this is supposed to be one of the premier offerings out there. Would be fun to put 200+ watts a side on the Bravox and say I have a $1200+ front stage and a $0 sub set up. I have been happy with 2-way active for a while now, and have the HU's to do it no problem. If I try this approach and were to go active it would be with a pair of AA Carbon's and a quality FR 2" - 3" driver. The advantages on the surface to switch to this approach; much cheaper, much less to mount and aim, less fiber glass work, active control of course, and no massive crossover to hide. I am not forced to go with a full range, but I am aiming for another top tier front stage again. The new TB's look interesting for sure. I do still have my SEAS neo textile tweets if I were to go a more standard 2-way active route. Don gave me a nice link to read: http://www.mobilesoundscience.com/f6/augmented-wideband-approach-car-fi-what-why-how-50/, even though I am not a fan of DS-21, it is a good topic on this subject. So the over all point of this topic is to get some feedback on Adrian's approach. This is not me doubting it, it is an effort to make sure it is right for me.

That would be ultra stupid.