fbi90909

yeah it looks nice from the front. though lots more pics are required! i'm curious as to what the back looks like as well. what are the specs on the box size? is it ported(looks like it) and what's it tuned to? did you seal off the trunk from the cabin? i'd like to know how it sounds cause i plan to seal my trunk from the cabin and mount 2 15's in the same location. also what car is that? edit: lol never mind the questions about type of car and enclosure. didn't see the sig.

Not bad for sum 8's but where r the 18's?? on the way there was 1500 watts going to each 8. they are the 50 dollar RE models. props to ya man!

that's pretty awesome for some 8's what 8's are they and how much power you giving them?

not a good idea to reglue the spider in place as the coil coul of shifted some and when reglued could end up being out of alighnment. you'd have to take off the center cap, use a shimey, then reglue it but then that's really voiding the warrenty. make sure that uyou email scott and give him a day or 2 to respond. all my emails were responded in 2 days so don't sweat it.

alamo's loss/damage rep took the information and gave me my claim number. i have to call their claim department tomorrow morning to let them know what ever it is they want. funny though when the officer pulled us to give us the information exhange he stated him/his vehicle was at fault of the accident. i grabbed my papers and went off to my friend who was driving behind me. he stayed with the cop trying to figure out why he was at fault. cop didn't want to hear excuses and left. good stuff at least its lookin on the up for you you know anyone that owns a body shop to give the insurance company an overpriced quote on the damages? not really, but i do have a good co-worker of mine that is in good connections with a few mechanics. i'll see what's up as he'll probrably hear about it before i get to him. i need to go put ice on my foot as it's hurting a bit from the braking + point of impact.

alamo's loss/damage rep took the information and gave me my claim number. i have to call their claim department tomorrow morning to let them know what ever it is they want. funny though when the officer pulled us to give us the information exhange he stated him/his vehicle was at fault of the accident. i grabbed my papers and went off to my friend who was driving behind me. he stayed with the cop trying to figure out why he was at fault. cop didn't want to hear excuses and left.

yeah, happened about 2 hrs ago. i just got done speaking with my insurance and Alamo rentals loss/damage department. i feel chitty seeing my car bruised like this, but very very pissed about people that don't pay attention to the road. i have been in near collisions MANY MANY times for the same reason of people merging w/o looking, and i knew that that would be the accident i would be involved in eventually and well it did happen today. the story, i was driving north bound on a 4 lane road with a center divider on the outside lane. he pulled out of a complex area from the far left onto the center divider. then at a very slow speed he merged into the inside lane(i'm still on the outsie lane/far right). right now i'm doing 40mph coming up to him. at half a cars lenght infront of me i see him just swirve into my lane at his low speed, probrably 5-10mph, and well that's when the magic happened. my baby, at the accident area his rental upclose pics of my damage. what makes me feel worse is the amount of body that shifted on the car cause my drivers side of the hood is pinching my head light and my door now makes this nasty scratching sound when i open it. really pisses me off. people seriously need to fucking watch the road. :madsign:

no.

he had the setup installed by some "professionals" and i'm sure what he ment by cranking it is he's turning his volume up. to the OP: do you have an aftermarket head unit? if so what kind? pioneers are known to give a chitty grounding noise in the RCAs that is audible at even no volume, but i don't think that is what is cause your amp to cut out. check all your wiring. remove the subs for any loose connections.

x100 thousand 47 times. i explain it to a lot of people that don't think using a smaller amp can cause damage to a subwoofer. if they properly set the gains it's fine, but if they try to get as much out put from the little amp it's going to cause clipping.

clipping?

oh there is no real break in period for a sub. you can just play it at low volumes to loosen the suspension for a few hours. or do like me and many others and just pound that chit from the get go.

to back people off from touching the sub? he ment sticker

from the looks of the pics in day time it looks like the light looks bare but in person it is well lit and visible from a good distance. the pics of the car in direct sunlight do not have any lights on btw. here are some night shots i took before i went to my friends house. first lights on brake not pressed, then brake pressed at half a car lenght: then at 2.5 car lenghts: at night it is clearly visible so it should all be good. i like the way it turns out a lot and am very happy with it.

i have a feeling that what you have on your car is similar to what my car does. my car has an ELD(electronic load detector) in conjucntion with an ECU(electronic control unit). well what is is the ELD is a little unit that sits in my fuse box, and when it detects a pull of a turned on unit inside the car that uses up a decent amount of voltage it sends a signal to the ECU which that tells the car to run the alt to produce extra voltage for the detected load. for example. power windows has a fuse in my fuse box. normally my voltage sits around 12.3-12.4. if i do something with the window of putting them down or up it detects a laod of needed voltage and would cause my alternator to kick in for the needed voltage, but as soon as i let go of the button and the ELD doesn't see any needed load it just tells the ECU to stop the alt. but to the point. you could run the big 3 direct to the batt. when the PD drive in the car kicks the alt in to produce the needed voltage for w/e you are running in the car it will feed that unit + feed the battery at the same time. basically bypassing the PD drive. only problem is you will most likely not get full alternator output as your PD drive was probrably set in the car so the car runs as effecient as possible, and to save on gas. just so you knwo i'm not 100% about your car, but the PD drive you state sounds something similar to what my car does. it just doesn't direct voltage. though, it's still ok to run Alt to Batt.

true. most of the materials i didn't have. lol the only thing i had was rubbing alcohol and my quick wax. i never really buff my car with any compounds. but i will eventually now that i have them. i have a ton of micro fiber towels which i use when i dry my car after washing they their all quite dirty so i wanted to keep the project clean.

well after seeing Sec's explorer with his recent smoked tails and having someone mention the use of VHT nite shade got me into thinking. with as cheap as people say it is i figured well why not take a shot at it? plus, i really really needed something to do! so i went on for a few days and researched, researched, and well researched even more. a lot of users on other forums have used VHT nite shade with good results. so finding out that a 7oz can of the stuff was only 9 bucks and usually 2 cans is what is needed for most tail lights so i went ahead and ordered 3 just to be safe. also most people say that the tinting process takes usually 4-6 hours, most of which is waiting time. most sites people said to just clean the lens, tint, then clear and your done, the process i used from a 350z site that had a tutorial was, clean lens, sand 800, clean lens, tint, clear, sand 1000, sand 1500, sand 2000, buff with rubbing compound, buff with polishing compound, finish off with quick detailing or wax. so i gathered the things i needed and began. List: 3x VHT Nite Shade 2x Duplicolor Clear Top Coat Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol 1 Pack of 800 grit sand paper 1 pack of 1000 grit sand paper 1 pack of 1500 grit sand paper 1 pack of 2000 grit sand paper Rubbing Compound Polishing Compound Quick waxing Orbital Buffer 3x Micro-Fiber towels Roll of Painters Tape pics of stock appearance: removing the tail lights was a BITCH!! took me an hour just to remove the passengers light(cause i didn't know that there are screws UNDER that damn car). total time was 1hr 30 min to get the lights off. next was to tape off areas that i did not want to get over spray or to have sanded on. next i had to wet sand the lights with 800 grit sand paper so the VHT nite shade would have a nice hold onto the tail light and help prevent chipping. heres what one set of lights look like sanded compared to un-sanded. after the lights were sanded and washed off of sanded dust i needed to clean off the tail lights with a microfiber towel and rubbing alcohol, the towel was used so that NO lint would be left behind on the lights. next i designated my work area. before i set up i washed down the table from any dirt and dust. then opened up a box and laid it against the wall so i wouldn't get tint over spray on the wall. remember guys. safety first, gloves and mask! the fumes off the VHT nite shade were STRONG! i then placed my tail lights in an arrangement where all needed areas that were to be sprayed could be with ease and not leave me with over spray on certain areas. basically to let me give every light an even coat per spray session. first coat. Note: every coat is a light thin coat. it's better to use thin coats because if you go to thick you will most likely end up with drips as the VHT is quite watery if over sprayed. plus with the light thin coats i was able to achieve the desired level i wanted. so here we go! second coat: third coat: fourth coat: fifth coat: Sixth coat(final): after i was done coating the tail lights with the tint i carefully placed each one in small boxes i have. then closed them off to allow them to dry in a dust/particle free. sorry no pics of that. total time from the start 4hrs 30min. well about 5 hours later i take my tail lights to a friends house to clear coat them cause his porch is well lit and mine isn't. i had 2 cans of clear coat and began with a thin first 2 coats. as i progressed on adding more layers i added them thicker and thicker. after the 2 cans were done the tail lights had a white haze to them. as i kept adding clear coat onto the semi dried base coats they just hazed up. i don't know why so i put them in their boxes and a few hours later they cleared up. sorry no pics. day 2: got up at 9am and well started wet sanding.(not many pics of the sanding process) heres what a corner light looks like to an unsanded with clear coat on it. there was still some orange peel on the tail light in the pic but i took my time and removed all the orange peel before i began on the next light. 5 hours later it was finally time to buff them, and yes I'm sick of seeing sand paper right now. i decided to mount them onto the car because the orbital buffer i have is a 2 handle 10" which is kind of hard to handle with one hand and holding the light in the other. (the passenger side was slightly compound buffed before i decided to mount it from the difficulty i had) i then taped off areas i did not want affected while buffing, then began buffing them out. then polish buffed them then waxed them. pics of final results. pic with lights on, brake not pressed: pic with brake pressed and lights off: pic with lights on and brake pressed: pic with lights on and car in reverse with brake not pressed: and a few shots of the car parked in direct sunlight: well that concludes my experience with tinting my tail lights. the difficulty is not that hard but you have to have a care full hand with spraying the paints on. plus if you don't have the patience to properly sand for a LONG period of time than this is really not for you. right now i really like the turn out. there are some tiny imperfections but well they are the results of a DIY first timer and not at a professional level. the cost of the project for me was: 2 of 3 cans of VHT Nite shade: $25 shipped 2 cans of clear coat: $13 4 types of sand paper: $17 rubbing compound: $8 polishing compound: $8 3 pack microfiber towels: $7 orbital buffer: $19 on sale(actual cost $28.99) rubbing alcohol: $1.50 Green painters tape: $6 total: $104 total time about 10-11hrs lol i could of had them done for $115 shipped, professionally. either way it was a great learning experience.

JR reminds me of Chino from the Deftones. nice information given from the interview.

not to my knowledge and I am aware I need to take it out and bend the terminals.. What can I say it was my first time reconing a sub... i like having the terminal/leads part sticking straight up and routing the leads to the side. now go get some vids?

mpyre still makes speakers?? iirc they had problems with drivers getting damaged in shipping but they never really followed up on their production and well it might be that they just fell apart. :/ www.mpyreaudio.com <-- site is down

why not? they don't have 2.5 inch coils

i have a 3.5 to RCA for my ipod hookup from Monster in my car and the exterior wrapping they use is very durable.

i have 3 sets of cheapies running in mine. though for my furture install i'd like to make my own so i can get proper lenghts instead of having additional wire to hide.

you should just recone it yourself. it's easy as nuts. all you really need are about 3 tubes of 20-30min extra/super strenght 2-part epoxy, some sheets of paper to create a shim, and a soldering iron(75watt & up preffered) & solder. just buy the drop in recone kit which should be around 115-125 shipped.

haha first thing that came to mind after reading this was a short bus. lol