todd.brust

sickness..I can't even begin to imagine what 150db sounds like at 20 hz!

haha heck yea man. its fun doing that. stupid digitalness. never drove an viii before but to be honest l love the looks of the vii. its a mix of old american gangsta car and modern sports car. i dunno theres something about that vii.... as for the system, its pretty much done. got the speakers, got the sub, got most of the wiring, all i need is the amp and some battery terminals lol Oh, I completely agree about the Mark VII's. I love the looks of them. I wanted one for the longest time but I ended up with a 97 Towncar. I still love the TC but i wouldn't mind one of the Mark series Lincolns. Even better is the 66 Continental with the suicide doors! Just out of curiosity, what did you end up picking out for your front stage and sub?

I love the Mark series Lincolns. A buddy of mine had a Mark VII and the top end on it was pretty decent. We took it on a long straight away and the digital speedometer stopped at 85mph but the car kept accelerating and when we ran out of road it took a bit for it to drop below that 85 that the speedometer maxed out at. The mark VII is no match for the Mark VIII though. I drove a buddies Mark 1997 VIII and those things are quick for a luxury car! Same with the Lincoln LS. I drove a v-8 LS with the slap shift and a few engine mods and the big difference between the Marks and the LS is the fact that the LS can handle exceptionally well. But i personally wouldn't be worried about the speed of your Mark. It's not meant to be a sports car. Just a cruiser with some extra balls. I say maybe get exhaust to give it a little more rumble. Besides that, I'd say stick the money into your active system!

lol I have a code for the one in my area, but i don't think that will help you in your part of town!

How would a single Icon 15 or RL-p 15 sound in 3 cubes vented? Would that sound clean? I can do up to 3 cubes. Both would do well in 3.0. Would 3 cubes sound clean and hit nice and low with either and what should it be tuned to? Between 15s which of these would be louder in 3 cubes ported with the power I have? RL-p 15 SSA Icon 15 Fi Audio Q15 Treo SSI 15 I think you would be happy with a Q, however i have only had experience with a Q. From what I have read, the Icon and RL-P are also very capable subs for what you want. I am not familiar enough with Treo to say anything about their speakers or capabilities. Either way you look at it, i think you will get a quality product and great sounding speaker

Here is the current Alpine line up. If you are looking for any of their older lines, you will have to go search through Google or something. http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/s...?category=AV_HU

X2

I am pumped to see this one in progress. My only question is about the ThreeSixty. I have never had any experience with them but from what i have heard they are a phenomenal piece of equipment. What i want to know is how do you make all the adjustments wit hit? Does it interface through a computer?

^^^^^DATA!! whoooooooooooooooooooooooooo ^^^^

I love the Lincolns too. It's all i have ever owned! I love the way the TCs look with the wire wheels. Nice cars to say the least. I still want a 65 Continental black with some some OG wheels with the huge whitewalls or some big wires.

Pictures always help. You should get some videos up when the car is running and tearing ass. I could imagine how well that car could handle and whatnot when set up, I mean the car is like the size of a Lotus. I can only imagine the possibilities.

The more music with higher voltage is all dependent on the amplifiers power supply. Whether it is regulated or unregulated. With a Regulated power supply, the voltage rails will remain the same at 12 or 14 volts, however with a unregulated power supply the voltage rails will vary with the input voltage to the amplifier. More Voltage with the same load will result in higher power. There needs to be any data to prove this, it is a simple fact as to how a power supply works. Sorry John, just wanted to answer this question. But to the OP, I think you can get away with just the big 3, but it doesn't hurt to add a battery. And that's all i have to say here now. lol

so what he's saying is he wants a sub to have a sub with 8 hz of audible bandwidth? Am i confused or completely misreading this?

Just for the record, I HATE fixing anything with SMT. Through hole is the easiest to work with IMHO.

Sounds like you are getting a little excited over this! When do you plan to go through and sound deaden, replace speakers, and install the aftermarket amp, because i want so see this all go down . Also i forgot to ask in one of my previous posts, but do you plan on eliminating the rear fill speakers or are you going to use the HUs time correction and mess with the soundstage that way?

I hate to say it, but pre-fab bandpasses do kind of suck. I have heard a few good BPs, but they were designed around the speaker being used.

I have no data to prove anything as stated before. There are many suggestions made on this forum based on personal experience. That is all that I am basing my suggestion off of, personal experience. Since i have gotten a different battery, I have had higher voltage readings more consistently while running my amp. The OP asked what he could do to help his electrical system if needed, and i suggested a battery instead of a HO Alternator seeing that a battery usually installs much easier than an alternator and usually costs less.

No i do not, do you have data to disprove me? I could simply be misinformed. I am not trying to mislead the OP, just trying to help and put in my two cents.

The deep cycle discharges slower than a conventional battery, however I should have stated that if the alternator is weak, the upgraded battery won't help a whole lot.

How much do you plan to spend on the amplifier? The Alpines Link you gave us says $450? You can pick up a Sundown SAE-1000D from the SSA shop for $400. If you are interested, the SSA shop also offers a bundle with the SAE-1000D with an Icon 12" for around 500. The bundle would be cheaper than the Q and the Alpine amp by lots with similar performance. Just my two cents.

I think you may be able to get away with a stock battery, but I would suggest doing the big 3. The big 3 is upgrading your ground wires (engine block to ground and negative battery terminal to the chassis) and the alternator to battery wire. This was discussed over on CSO the other day so i have a good link for you. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID=73496&PN=1 There is some good information on actually doing the big 3 there. You don't have to worry about being a n00b. Everyone has been there and you can only learn by asking questions. Good Luck with the install!

lol I saw that video about a week ago and got a good laugh out of it. The De-motivational Posters are good stuff to!

600 watt amp for comps?! Are you talking about 600 watts and 1000 watts peak or continuous power? I can't give you a definite answer, but i can tell you that changing your battery to a high quality deep cycle would put less strain on your electrical system. The big 3 would be a good starting point. I would suggest doing that whether you need a battery or not.

Alumapro huh? I had a set of Alumapro 10" subs, and i loved them! Alumapro makes a quality product. The local shop reps them and I almost picked up a set of their 6.5" Comp sets before i decided on the XRs. I can't wait to see this project come along! Glad to hear you will be going active!

Nice little write up. The stock JBL in some of the Lincolns isn't bad stuff. The JBL sound system in my Town Car was surprisingly good by my standards for a stock stereo. The cutouts were for a 5x7 but was basically a 5.25 and a tweeter enclosed in some kind of plastic shell. I have a few quick questions, when you say "Use the stock amp (if not, aftermarket)" do you mean the factory JBL or the HU amp? And Secondly, what do you plan to run for your front stage? Active please?