blue fury

Id research a little more about what it takes to get a BL and a BTL in a quality setup before making guesses at what you'll need. You may find out that it will take a lot more than you think.

Ill do an article on those old RF power 10s if you want, then later the speakers/amps in the next couple months

All I need to do is confirm the bank for paypal and then its all set up. Then I can send payment hopefully on Monday.

Whats the electrical like?

Ill be taking a wood structure class probably a year from now. Really plywood? I Would think because of bigger gaps between the pieces it would fail faster than mdf as far as bending stress goes.

Im saying if you install the amp with stock electrical, its possible for you to damage certain components- your amp might be damaged from low voltage. Your alternator might be over worked and burned out from the battery constantly being worked too hard and from huge current draw. You might even cause a fire if you use wires that are well under the recommended gauge size. Precautions precautions precautions

As long as both batteries are in good condition with a strong charge.

be patient. I have had my 2 subwoofers since 2005 and I still havnt put both in yet because of super slow income and priority shifts. All I need is a couple fuse holders and blocks with a bit more wire. It will be well worth the wait to do it correctly rather than rush it and risk damage.

So long as you don't puff up your chest and bitch back, you shouldn't get banned here. One of my first posts here I got made fun of for the equipment I was using that was a gift. Kind of put me off from here for the most part.. thats why I have so few posts. But that is a very hungry amp. You're lucky to have one, I'd like to in the future trade my 2 10001bd's for one of those or equivalent. With the yellowtops and duralasts that you listed, I think that youd need like 3 of those to have sufficient power for just that amp with the volume up. I think you'd save money by getting a big battery and putting it in the back. MANY people use powermaster, the 3100 has 117 ah, so maybe one of those in back then maybe a 5100 in front. Not to mention a nice alternator to charge them. Thats going to be a necessity with regular use of that amp. It would definitely be a shame if it sees prolonged low voltage.

Its always + to +, but as for the negatives, you hook them up to whatever has the least resistance. Its usually - terminal to - terminal > frame > sheet panels. Many people ground the back battery to the frame, many competitors use multiple runs from front to back. Don't skimp on the wire guage whatever you choose.

Id order it right now if there was the option.

i know i know, it was a christmas gift from my parents tho

oh sht. I get it now, but lucky for me the manual doesnt say anything about the high input. Hooray! Edit--- i comapred it to another of my amps and it says NO. not even going to fiddle with it then. dammmmm I have to buy Y's nowww ughh

oh ya its a visonik 240xt, and idk what you mean by rtfm

cause I dont want to but another rca cable NOW when im just going to get a couple inst. kits later down the line. I have my my 4channel amp running only the fronts right now with a rca cable and no inputs to the rear soooo its ok if I hook up all the wiring to the high input harness and leave out the fronts input?

check your wiring, most likely your rca cables. Unplug them, turn on the stereo and if theres no sound at all then you found it. Replace them or ground them.

makes sense to me cause on my other car, it would only start like half the time cause the battery would give enough charge even though it was a new batt. Took it out of the trunk, mounted it in the orig location, upgraded the engine and battery ground wires and it worked. If only I drove it more often... Thx fbi

LEEROYYYYYYYYYYYY JENNNNNNNKINNNNNNNNSSSSS!!!!!!!

I need a new alt cause im about to put 2k rms in my car. Already found one from excessive- 200A. Did the math for the amps, should be good. He includes diff. guages of wire, I knew I would need that but what guage? 2? He says that it should bolt right on, but is there anything else I need? What about fuses and their ratings? Since this isnt in my area im just going to have my mechanic put it in but I want all the parts ready to go cause I dont think his parts are as cheap as excessive's...

"I was having just shy of a jet engine noise from my fronts and doors and simply went behind the HU and soldered a little 16 ga wire (probably could've simply taped it) and grounded it to the back (side) of the HU.....! Wholly COW it was like a difference of Night and Day! It was like I just got a new muffler... ya know that all quite-no noise sound that feels/sounds allll-most as good as sex... I mean no noize boyz! And I owe it all to ... Geeze, I can't remeber... Wait yes...yes of course... Greg @ USAmps. I had first grounded the RCA's in the trunk but only got rid of say 75-80%. That's becasue it (the annoying noise) needs to be removed at the origin." THAT WAS MY PROB TIL ABOUT 6 HOURS AGO!! But mine was a bit different- y cables made the noise... took em out and its gravy now. BUT Id like to do like you and make a ground next to the HU. What wire exactly did you ground mhyde71?

excessive faq section says now he offers 300A alts...

What do I have to consider about the box design and sub placement and bracing to have the ports on the rear of the box? The reason I ask cause subs would be side and there wouldnt be too much room for the ports if they went next to the outsides of the subs in my trunk. Also are there any benefits to a single chamber push pull ported box? Downsides? What if in the same box, the speakers are on opposite planes- one in back, one in front? I cant find ANYTHING like this on this on google and want to know why.

Ive had my 1 rfr3110 in a regular square-ish prism shaped ported box no polyfil and at first all I wanted was boom. At higher volumes, theres a noise that I dont know how to describe, but I think its just reverb from within the box or something. Now im tired of boom and really want smooth bass, just LOUD smooth bass. By the way, its in a chevy lumina trunk, stock battery, will have 200A alt, 1x dub8001 (i know, not the best by far...). I have another sub (same kind) and amp (same as the amp im using) and im just saving up for an alternator, so in the meantime Ive been thinking of boxes that will help boost sound quality and eliminate standing waves. The point for this topic is to get some opinions and guidance, what I could do to a box- inside and out of it- to increase sq. info on sq, etc. Heres a couple ideas approx. 30"x40"x13" port area approx 30sqin. This box is single chamber with ports on the sides that can go into the box Id say no more than 5 inches, all depending how long the port needs to be (havnt entered the info to BBpro6 yet so length is unknown). Polyfil = the little curves in front of the big corner curves. I made this single chamber cause I was thinking a push pull situation. I dont know much about how push/pull affects sq or spl, would it be better? approx. 13"diameter x 40" port area approx. 30sqin Didnt realize how bad this came out til the preview! This one is one chamber per sub, pretty much a tube enclosure. Curved inside and outside edges/corners as the previous box. The port runs on the outside edge of the box and angles in, then angles again to run along the inside of the box for a short distance. The port is approx. 8"x4", dont remember exact measurements. About the back of this box... I was thinking a conical back with a dull point might pierce the general center of the soundwaves and bounce them to the walls instead of directly against the rear of the driver. Since its a tube, should I be worried about the length of the tube- like will some wavelengths match the length of the tube and cause distortion somehow? Am I on the right track with these ideas?

here's another thing- ive never had to deal with relays before since everything Ive done has been really basic, single amp setups and all under 1000 watts. SO I assume theyre pretty easy to hook up, but what site sells this?

I went on crutchfield and read a FAQ for multi amp and it said this You'll need a relay on the turn-on lead to protect your receiver. A relay connected to the power antenna lead draws little current from the receiver, but supplies enough power to turn on all your amps simultaneously. Since I dont have a power antenna I assume I could connect it to the ignition, but why cant I just do like how I want and splice the remote wire to the other amps? Ive never heard of using a relay for this. AND does anyone know of a site where I can browse hi output alternators?