mjmarovi

lol no I don't plan on running them at 16-18 volts, and I'm really not sure about being AGM that makes not handle the voltage, as kinetik makes a 16 volt batt that is AGM, as does batcap. but I don't really understand what the difference is between the two batteries. only reason I wanted to charge my batts to 15 volts was because I know some guys in competition that said they did and had greater success holding voltage.

audio interventions, it's in Bonita Springs close to me. James used to work at Sound Advice on 41...in fort myers

it was recommended to me, and I have seen results that kinetiks do hold their charge much better at 15 volts. personally I don't know about whether or not it is good to charge them over 15 volts, but I do know I have seen many people in competition run up to 18 volts, and they were kinetik 12 volt batts...like the world record van, their voltage ~18 volts, and they use like 34 2400's or 64 of them or something stupid like that lol. ok yeh I could probably find a good deal o the kinetik charger, that's not too bad a price. what about power supplies? If i had that charger what is the point? I mean I am assuming they help as it seems most everyone uses them at comps, but personally I never have. I guess I've always been into just daily ground-pounding, that's why my concern is always alty's and batts, not charging systems up for burps.

maxed out speedometer in a 03' cobra with about 25k under the hood. speedometer goes to 160, and stayed on it for a cpl seconds after, car does over 200 so i'm guessing ~170?

no one has a recommendation??

by what great customer service they seem to have...no clue....where did you buy it? Paypal to steve miller himself. well I suppose it shouldn't be too hard to call him or e-mail him and ask for a return...

it was distortin that camera quite nicely sounded like it was pounding pretty hard, especially for off that autotek

good to keep in mind, I think I am going to talk to the guys at the audio shop and see what they think...

by what great customer service they seem to have...no clue....where did you buy it?

Having the box built and ready to go by the time you get there, I could do it all in a day for you. I live in south Fort Myers, so depending exactly where you at ~2 hours away. Try floridaspl.com forum, i'm on there too, it's a good forum and you can see if someone is closer to you, but my offer is on the table. No, a 2600 does not exist. Best place for buying kinetiks that I've found is www.onlinecarstereo.com I am a very good customer of their's, and that's def. where I buy all my batts. Best prices and quick free shipping! head units...well for the most part IMO Alpine and Eclipse are about as good as it gets, besides finding those few decks out there for SQ competition like Macintosh, Nakamichi, and alike. but those are crazy expensive and def. not a need for this install. Personally I run the Alpine CDA-9887 with built-in xover, and absolutely love it. I had a rf 360.2 processor before, and this deck blows that processor away. (which was paired with a different alpine deck.) the 9887 is alpine's best singe-din that is not a DVD player, and it runs ~400. Well, they have an F1 status still I believe, but yet again no need for this install. for eclipse look into the MKII. that would be the competitor for alpines 9887 with built-in xover. (which you may not need, but it is nice to have) Pioneer makes a few decent decks, but overall that company has had many ground issues and background noise problems with decks. you seem to be on the right track with everything else...

are you sure you have it wired to 1 ohm? you have them wired in a series/parallel combination correct? each sub in series, then the two together in parallel to the amp? would it be possible to take a video? I know it's not the best, but would def. give a general idea of what kind of output you're getting. a ported box would be much louder, but really something's wrong if it's that quiet

wow I know this is an old thread, but did you ever test it? from what I've seen, doing subs and port forward into cabin with everything sealed off is the loudest, then second is sub back port back with as much room for air to move forward into the cabin as possible.

I see what your idea, so that you could fit 15's or even 18's and they would be mounted in the bed area, behind the wall. I think if built right you could get some good SQ, but I'm not so sure you would get the larger output you are looking for. I would just say go with more powerful 12's lol. or you could do something like a 4th order, mount the sealed portion of the box and the woofers in the bed, then port it into the cab. that would be much more practical then crossing a t-line with a 6th order. I saw the setup done in the trunk of an older cutlass, it was ported through the rear deck, slammed quite nicely for a 2000 watt system and two 15's.

could be a signal issue...try swapping RCA's...or switch the output from your HU...and did you try gaining down a little to see if it goes away?

Haha, what happen Jacob? you mean a 400 watt rms sub broke from ~2000 watts, that's it, i'm done, what happened to the quality control? LOL JK that's amazing it took that much to do it. I am already getting some crazy thoughts about these, maybe re-do the system I am working on now in the spring....j/w what 12 of these could do on ~9kw

alternator- the bigger the better, IMO ohio generator builds the best out there, and if you give them a call they will be more than willing to help you out on designing and building an alternator to suit your needs. batts- Batcap, XS powermasters, and Kinetiks are really the best 3 pretty unanimously. as for which is the best, opinions vary, the owner of Ohio Generator along with myself agree that Kinetik is overall the best batt, but any choice from the three companies I mentioned would do great. amps- SUNDOWN FTW!! lol if you want the system to last in the future, and not have to upgrade to a higher quality amp in the future go with something nice like a sundown from the start. a single BTL when installed correctly can handle even up to 4kw daily. of course any sundown SAZ series is strappable, and the minimum I would recommend on one is a 1500d, so you could always buy more and strap them together in the future. subs- BTL is a good choice, Ascendant Audio Mayhems are great to, built and designed from the same guys. as for the air space, that would be for a 15" 18's you should really use 6-8 cuft, and to hit the lows well and be more musical you will want to be closer to 7.5-8.5 cuft per sub. install- who is doing all of this for you? or are you doing it? be sure to allow money in budget for install materials and wiring, this is a decent sized install you are talking about so I hope you feel comfortable doing it, if not then we can make some recommendations for you there as well.

Alright, so sold off everything from old substage, well actually sold half of it, other half got stolen. Anyway will be running 2 1500d's on 3 SA-12's, and backing them on the electrical side will be a kinetik hc2000, hc1400, and optima blue top under the hood. right now alty is a small upgraded 120a. I am saving up for a real nice 200 a 240 peak custom valeo from ohio generator. Now the real question is this. I want to charge batteries to 15volts. right now with the optima, and two kinetiks that is a total of 4500 battery amps and 162 ah from kinetiks and I believe 55 ah on the optima blue top so 217ah total. I do plan on adding another hc2000 and hc1400 on other side of trunk in the spring when I double up on amps and add the alty. I have looked at the kinetik charger, but I'm thinking there is probably something out there for less that will still do the job I want it to do. also wondering what advantage/difference in power supply from charger and if you need both. I feel my knowledge of car audio is on a high level, so no need to talk to me like a kid, looking for expert advice on this, as this is the one area I feel I am weak in. think that covers it thanks in advance for comments/advice!

once you get to 1/2" or greater, plexi is pretty damn strong, at 3/4", that should work out quite nicely, just do us a favor and post some pics when it's all done would love to see it!

pretty much right Jay-cee, but you really only want to use one LPF. so you would want to turn either the one on the HU or the amp all the way up or off. of course you would want to go with which either one is of higher quality. or perhaps if they are different db/slope

"decent build standards" is not okay with me, I want perfection, though I may not always get it. Being a Sundown user you should know what I mean, guess not. I want perfection as well, but that has nothing to do with comparing Hifonics to Power Acoustiks. those two companies are wildly different, and using crunch A/B class amps and Hifonoics brutus series is like using rockford prime amps and saying rockford sucks. what about Hifonics XXV? what about the crunch 3000d-pro? and for rockford what about the power series? some companies that have high-end equipment that is competition grade also offer less expensive lines for people on a smaller budget, doesn't mean the company is crap. now back the actual topic: OP any progress?

for the money, great woofer, won't steer you away from it. I do think Q's will hit the lows betters. a lot of getting what you want out of a system though is in the install, so remember we're really just talking "abilities" of these woofers, what the outcome actually will be is up to you. as the Q is designed to be the most musical woofer from Fi it's power handling is extended into the lower frequency range as that is where most ppl play their Q's and the reason for why I back your decision on going with them. besides, I have used two Q's to reach near 150 on music out of my trunk, and Frankie Rio has used them in the past to reach levels of 160 db in his lexus, so not like they aren't capable of getting loud!

absolutely! I had explained this in another thread where someone was asking for woofers with lower Fs because they wanted to hit the lows. I had to explain to them how they were looking for the wrong thing. As for the "unloading" yeh quite simply as far as my understanding is, the woofer not even necessarily 1-3 frequencies below tuning, but at a certain point below tuning will be to far out of phase with the enclosure, and when the woofer attempts to retract after pushing out to play the note, air is then trying to get back into the box as opposed to vice versa as it should, which causes the woofer to actually unload. Now I believe someone already touched it on, but unloading doesn't always happen below tuning, only when pushing the driver hard enough below tuning. For example, I know some guys in SQ setups that have higher tunes and play woofers almost exclusively below tuning, but at low levels which results in very accurate suttle bass which is ideal for true SQ comps.

I know, I completely understand that, but the BTL costs twice as much and the OP already said he doesn't want to spend more than the cost of the Q's.

Not really sure why people are saying you are not a Q buyer, two of the 15's with BP power will handle that amp quite nicely, and Q's can absolutely crush the lows. I had two Q 15's on a 3000watt amp tuned to 31.5hz, really miss the system, wish I still had it. str8 up nasty! The BL and BTL are really more designed for higher powered more SPL oriented setups, the Q's IMO are the best in the line from Fi if you are looking to bang the lows and put between 1000-1500 watts to each woofer. And as it looks like you are in the power range and want to play music, why not use the most musical sub in their lineup designed for that amount of power?

You haven't heard a BTL tuned below 30hz with the high xmax coil have you? BTL's have the ability to crush notes as low as you want, they just are as "smooth" you could say as an "SQ" woofer.