mjmarovi

I measured it out, and mounting depth wise, I could fit it What's your question then? If you measured it and it will fit, build the box! You just need about 11" in total depth for it to fit. 6.5" for the mounting depth, about 1.5" behind the sub for the pole vent, 3/4" for the wood on the backside, and 2-2.5" in front of the baffle for the sub mounting flange and excursion. I guess that answers it. I really don't have 11" total. I didn't even consider having the 1.5" behind or baffle. I got way ahead of myself. there are three types of enclosures I like for trucks, 1) no back seat with a wall, 2) if no back seat to take out, blow-through 3) if you don't have the balls to cut up your truck for a blow-through, then at least take out your center console! lol just my .02 cents, cause like BigC said, decide on what you want and make it possible, no fun to compromise then not have sound that you wanted have. feels like waste of money then

it's really quite easy to mount a tweeter into a door panel, unless you really don't want to cut into the panel. as for the budget, no need for rear speakers, really unnecessary as all sound should be perceived as a "stage" and coming from in front of you. so that also frees up some cash to get some nicer speakers up front. budget is for amp and the speakers correct? so 600-800 for a 4-channel, or really just need a two-chanel amp, and nice set of components.... the pdx 100.4 is a nice amp, but you can get just as clean or cleaner power for less, but if you like that amp, and the size is def. a neat install factor, not necessary to change. Hybrid Audio Clarus components are amazing, but you would have to make a custom mount for the tweet. as for sets that can be mounted "coaxialy"....not a whole lotta choices out there, can't remember the company name, but the old designers from when MB Quart was actually german started up their own speaker company, nice stuff and they offer a set.

yeh I do like the internals on that amp, but I suppose it's like crunch and their 3000d-pro, one good amp at the top and the rest are there as a distraction to make some money. lol I wouldn't care if someone GAVE ME RD stuff though, I'm sure I could put it to some use messing around in the ole garage...and the wall sockets....

Q's will work better in a sealed enclosure without the BP power option. they will still easily take 1kw a piece without the option, especially in sealed.

Great great designs ! They know what they're doing. Good service too. subs up port back is a great start, usually seems to be the loudest in an SUV. I would recommend trying to go for as big of port as possible without going goofy, somewhere in 16-18 sq. in. of port area per cuft of box volume. this usually helps with SPL output. and you have the depth to work, so shouldn't be a problem for longer length of ports.

LOL yeh and I met a kid a show who was in a Scion car club (no offense if you own a scion but that was clue 1 for me) he had two JL (clue 2) 15's w2's or w/e the cheap ones with poly cones. and had a JL 500/1 slash amp. sealed wedge box in the back, this was the cube vehicle. told me he hit a 152. He insisted on a demo, needless to say I woulda been surprised if it was a 142, he must been on acid when he looked at his SPL score on the screen....

I have an idea! How about you let them play, and if the surround tears then you buy a replacement surround for 4 bucks!!

lol at Jay.... anyway, lets see where we are at after all this mess. you basically want something as loud as possible, and we aren't going to suggest any crap equipment so you will have what your perceived thought of "SQ" is, although this system will be far from an actual SQ system, and if you ask why then you have much to learn and much to read. 1)ability- so you are confident in doing the install yourself and know how to do it, great that's step 1 so we can check that off. 2)electrical- you also have great choices already made for electrical, that's step 2 so we can check that off. 3)budget- need to make sure there are funds for build materials and wiring, remember 0 gauge is expensive so location of all this stuff can def. matter. so we need to know your budget in order to start looking at equipment. 4) equipment- after everything above is pretty solid, now we can look at what amps/subs to match up and recommend for you. really electrical should follow this but since you seem to be set on the alty and two hc2000's which can handle quite a bit, I don't won't to tell you different and we can work with that. hope this helps get the thread on track, and hopefully you read all of above like you should, if not, and you're only reading the last line....WHAT'S YOUR BUDGET?

ummmm NO, OP please don't even look at this amp, it is OK, but wal-mart compared to arc and sundown, steg... now it seems you need to think about the future....the arc or the 100.4d would be plenty for those speakers even unbridged. and either could run them actively which actually can be safer for your tweeter since passives are generally only 12db/slope, and both those amps have 24 db/slope which will help keep tweeters from playing too low. most ppl blow tweets on passive setups, not the woofer. if you don't plan on running any more mids/highs in future then go with the 125.2 no questions asked. if you plan on running others in the future then get the arc or the sundown, both are amazing amplifiers, arc is and has been quite proven in SQ competition. and any arc or sundown amp will push more than rated power even after normal voltage drop.

nice deck, I run the 9887 myself but I'm not saying an inline xover, what about xover on the HU and the amp? Or you could try hooking up rca's to one of the other outputs on the deck, maybe the sub-out is having an issue. next thing to do is probably just call Audioque.

not at all a good use for 6.5"ers. They are a major compromise driver size IMO. I'd use the 8's and match them up to a true midrange not a compromise. wait...so you're saying you don't think 3 pairs of 6.5's will be able to produce good mid-bass? or your saying they wont be good into the 2-3khz range? I really doubt I will end up having them play much over 3-400 hz as my test of installing the second set of 4" mids looks like they will cover from 160hz and up no problem at whatever volume.

what kind of head unit is it? and yes sounds like RCA's....or could be a xover setting problem on the deck...

if you use screws, and it may be easier to get them back out, glue and/or liquid nails is usually a little more permanent.

Q's don't perform as well in sealed enclosures with the BP power option, still work of course, but if running sealed then it's optimal to have the option. ported will def. be louder, but yes sealed will usually have a tighter response.

you forgot all of us northern Sundown guys that go to SBN should go boom thats for sure lol yeh should be pretty nuts! I am hoping to pulling some serious numbers out of the trunk for SBN...I have a certain goal in mind

X2 LMFAO!

damn, seems there are quite a few then, just not in SouthWEST FL lol. well should be a good turnout for Sundown in Daytona this year then.

lol for a kicks you should ask him what he THINKS you should replace that woofer with....on another note, I wish I had your voltage problem, but who built your alternator? and yeh that equipment can handle the high voltage, hell at 15 volts are you probably getting 2kw out of that amp!

lol, all I am saying is a broken tinsel lead doesn't change the resistance of the coil. which is what was originally stated. testing the resistance AT THE COIL will still show the actual resistance of the woofer. Yes, of course wired in series and testing at the terminal it would be hard to get a reading...

exactly, and as long as you realize only running one coil on a DVC cuts the rms in ~half then yeh it's perfectly to do that, question still stands why would anyone want to do these things that are far less than optimal?

Really? Below 30hz? Let's see - Fi SSD, Fi Q, Mach5 iXL, Soundsplinter RL-p, Soundsplinter RL-s, SSA Icon, Dcons too but they don't handle 1000 watts or at least I don't think so, and the Sundown SA subs. x eighty googillion. Treo SSi or SSX

I've heard them all....Xcon and Mayhem will most likely be most musical. Nightshade and BTL will be loudest on a meter as they are the most sensitive per watt. DC audio Lvl 5 is more comparable, and the AQ IMO isn't quite as good as anything else there listed, Note it is less expensive and therefore is still a great woofer for the money. Hope that helps! oh, except I'm comparing all at same amount of power which is really how you should, nightshade is 1500 rms, but can handle 3kw, not fair to compare it at 1500 watts to a BTL or Mayhem or Xcon at 2000 or 2500. as another 1kw the others will surely be louder.

I might do that Monday, work all weekend, I got an old sony sub sittin around I don't care about...lol

why Fs below 30hz? you know that does not have a direct effect on how low the woofer will play right? sundown audio nightshades can get low as hell, and I've heard'em do it and the 15" Fs is 41 hz or 43 depending on VC conifg.

the 8's are there for the third part of the 3-way SQ setup. the 6 1/2's are there to add volume when I crank up the subs. I am contemplating changing up the doors that are already fiberglassed, and just going all 6 1/2's, but goal of the 8's is to only have to run the 8's with the mids/tweets during SQ demos/comps. Only thing is I'm not really sure how much SQ stuff I am going to enter. I am thinking of changing doors to all 6 1/2's, then next summer take the time and money to put some L8's in the floor in front of the driver and passenger seat. Damn, I might just tear down the doors altogether now and re-do them...... to clear that up as I just re-read it, basically my future goals are to have a three-way SQ setup consisting of the Legatia 4" mids and L1v2 tweets and a pair of L8's, maybe something cheaper than the L8's to start, but eventually L8's. the 6 1/2's are basically just there for loud and clean mid-bass, and possibly some reinforcement into the 2-3khz range for when banging the woofers. What are your thoughts?