95Honda

We built a fuel injected 429 for it. Pics were before we had the exhaust done...

I'm building a set of passive crossovers to do justice for the SSA Evil midwoofers and silk dome tweeters. This is a no compromise design that uses 48 (!) parts per set. They will be potted in epoxy resin inside ABS enclosures and hard wired with direct connection to the drivers. I have been working with these drivers for a while now and really like them. Install will be in a 1978 F-150 a good friend and I built. The rest of the system will be a SSA 150.4 and a 10" custom built PSI sub.

Yes.^^ Need to do your homework. Also ask yourself why... If it is to save money, it wont happen.

Similar to what I used to get with Ascendent and RE and Adire

Not sure why... I have having him build subs for me for almost 20 years... I think about 20 in the last year or so at least... What I like about David's subs is he is always customizing to the T/S I want without issue... I haven't had any issues.

Measurements are near field and the TS run was done above with the woofer in box to look at resonance and impedance. I used a Dayton Omnimic, DATS, O-Scope and a home made amplifier driven by an HP laptop to make all the measurements

I've been messing around lately with some 15" Drivers David Moore at PSI has been custom building for me to use for a few of the HT designs I have been implementing. I was using a lot of the Parts Express drivers for a while, the Ultimax and Reference series for custom installs, but the prices were going up and my wholesale discount kept seeming to get smaller and smaller. Anyway, David's drivers work well, sound good and measure decent in 3.5 ft3 boxes. Here are some pics of the last few, I have been getting the ones you can see coated with Line-X and the hidden ones just plain MDF. I have been using between 750 and 1000 watts per driver...

If any has a pair of the SSA Evil 4 ohm tweeters and would like to sell them please let me know!

If they ran the sub amp with high level inputs tapped off of speakers in the car sometimes when the factory stereo turns off there is no more dampening of the factory speakers and they act as microphones placing the subwoofer into a runaway feedback loop. Common with cheap install places like Best Buy.

I think you would be happy with something like this. The only downside is you need to cover them when not in use due to the fact that they can't take direct water like marine speakers. But marine speakers don't really sound that great for the most part so it is well worth the compromise.

so 2nd weekend out on the boat with these. They sound pretty good and have absolutely been bomb-proof.

Once I was able to get the tweeter response tamed they combined pretty good. I ended up with a 1st order filter centered around 3Khz with a Zobel network on the woofer and the tweeter ended up with a 3rd order electrical centered around 3.5Khz with a R/C series equalizer circuit that started rolling off around 5Khz at 6db/octave. If you look at the combined response in the first post it isn't too bad. There isn't much below 100Hz as the enclosures aren't tuned much lower than that from Bazooka. That is OK in the boat though, they are highpassed at 125Hz from the head unit. Bass is handled by a pair of PSI Bassline 10s, they fill out the bottom nicely. If I were going to build these again I would just use a piece of the schedule 40 PVC pipe I used for measurements with a solid end cap made of marine grade plywood. I think the bass would be a little better and the the enclosure would probably end up fully stuffed with Dacron. One thing I will say is these things are LOUD. I didn't get a chance to accurately calculate 1w efficiency, but if driver data is accurate from the manufacturer the system should be about 93 db 1w/1m. Not too shabby. Easy load to drive, too. The cool thing about using these kinds of drivers is they are really hard to blow with reasonable power. My buddy is going to have about 200 watts driving each speaker, at full clipping I am not sure he will be able to reach thermal limits with normal music. The Bazooka 8" coaxs only would last a weekend before one would melt down, I don't think he will have the same issue with these...

Here is just the tweeter on Axis. Compare it to the Eminence measurements and had dips in tweeter response as I found really came through when mounted to the Beta 8. Not good... 290-500--eminence-beta-8cx-specifications.pdf 290-525-eminence-asd1001s-specifications-44698.pdf

Here is the response of both drivers, combined and unfiltered.

So I went with Eminence 8" Beta coaxial drivers and the ASD1001 compression tweeter. I coated the woofers with "Wet Look" from Parts-Express to help with moisture. If I had to do it over again I would have chosen a different tweeter. It has a huge 12 db dip around 7K when ran through the Beta 8. Eminence's own driver measurements had dips like mine, Ill post them later. Anyway it made crossover design much tougher than it needed to be but those tweeters are only $24 each so I lived with it. If You look at the response I let it rise after 15K because I have a R/C eq circuit that altered the impedance enough already without getting more complex. It adds a little semblance to vocals but I think it will be ok outside on the boat. I think some of the higher end 8" coax drivers from the Italian manufacturers would be better but the price almost triples. These get pretty loud and clear and are pretty efficient...

I posted this in advance discussion do to the crossover design. Ill post details about it later and answer any question. There was a lot of work getting decent response...

I went ahead and designed some retrofits for a pair of Bazooka wakeboard tower speakers. The crossover took some time but came out decent in the end...

It is a complete waste of time to set your gains like this. You can't fully control voltage drive upstream, especially if someone else is controlling the source material, therefore it is pointless to do this.

Morel used to make a lot of shallow design subwoofers, back before they were known as shallow designs. They just used bigger voicecoils with internal magnets and really cheaply made stamped steel baskets that made the design shallow enough to fit anywhere. I installed a few in the early 90s. I have done a lot of installs with 8s, I just finished another dual 8" setup for a 1-ton Dodge last week. Displacement is displacement. There is nothing magical with motor force. If it is a small cone it has to move a lot to get loud. This 8 looks like it will move a lot...

Hmm, I wonder if one of those would be enough? Do you have the T/S?

Picked up a new F250 Crew Cab for the wife and want to fix the substage of the factory system. Looking for a class-D that has speaker level inputs and auto turn-on. Looking for a pair of 6 1/2" or 8" subs to go behind the rear seat. If anyone has anything they would like to get rid of, let me know! Looking for stuff in good or better condition only... Thanks!

Adding anything passive inline with the drivers when using active filters defeats the whole purpose. This practice has spawned from wives-tales in the late 80's when active was first being used in car audio and people didn't understand it...

How did you pick your volumes and tuning? If you didn't model, you need to go back and do that first. That is the only objective way to predict how it will "work"...

I don't see how you could go wrong with 4 10s vented and tuned around 30Hz for just about all music...

What do you think "loading issues" are? Unless the vent is too small, and the box Q drastically changes to the point of a leaky sealed (or Aperiodic) box, the drivers will behave the same regarless of vent location, baring extreme variations in box dimensions. If you were really concerned about Hemholtz resonance behavior, I would get rid of the aggressive curve or kerf on one side as this has an unpredicable effect on vent performance. I think we get tied up in heresay too much in car audio, and not hard science.