95Honda

You wired it up wrong.

They have no idea what the power was because they based it off the Re of the driver. They had no idea what the actual power was once the system impedance was factored in, could vary 2-3x in overall power. Meaningless test.

The RMS rating has nothing to do at all with how much power you need.

.132 (if you ever actually reach it) will be fine.

An 8" Aeroport has enough surface area for any 15" driver.

I don't think anyone thought you were being a jerk Jon. I have a 2 year old and 4 year old girl. I have been on active duty almost 16 years. I have lived in so many different places in the world I lost track. Safe and dangerous places. I think about this stuff all the time. I am armed to the tooth, I carry 100% of the time I am able, concealed and open. I think about evey situation I am in. I choose not to put myself in a situation that would ever cause me to use a firearm. I hope I never, ever have to shoot someone. I believe my wallet is worth more than anyone wanting to take its life. You can agree with my lifestyle or not. I am probably just more responsible for my own actions than you are if you disagree with me. That pretty much sums up how I go through life. I come from a super liberal family, seeing me and my wife and girls walking down the street you would think we are are regular suburban yuppie family. I like that.

The only downside to this is you will reach the thermal limits of the D2 driver before the D4 driver if they share the same internal air volume. You will reach the thermal and mechanical limits of the D2 driver before the D4 driver if they are in seperate air volumes. This will make it nearly impossible to optimize maximum output without damage for your customer...

Additionally, clipping or "dirty" power has nothing to do with ruining your sub. It has never killed a subwoofer before, yours won't be any different. Just like people said, listen, look and smell for signs of stress...

It isn't that. People get annoyed (including myself) when missinformation is posted and it is justified under the "well lets test and find out" banner. Not only does it misslead people, but it drags down this site. Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with creative design, but making things up (like most of the "transmission line" enclosures, "I need clean power class D amps" and "The RMS of subwoofer is how much power it needs" for instance) doesn't help anyone and just perpetuates ignorance...

If you experience difference in heating with the same power applied to the subwoofers then you are either being subjective with your testing or you are not in fact applying the same power...

I think you are missunderstanding what is going on here. The voltage and current through the individual coils is a constant for a given power, an amplifiers output voltage and current sourced is what changes with voice coil wiring configuration.

If you find out otherwise, your testing is flawed...

There is no difference in what each coil will see either way. The parallel wiring will be less complicated overall, and not require strapping the amps, that is it... Also, each strapped pair only sees 1/2 the overall load, so they see .5 ohm each, so they see the same load as when you have them operating individualy in your example...

Unless you change coil impedance, this is false. Given the same overall power...

No, I think you understood it right. Alot of people get confused with this...

By the way, the only thing that will effect the overall heat dissipation of the loudspeaker is to change the overall impedance. If you have a 4 ohm driver (single 4 ohm, 2 + 2 ohm, 1+1+1+1 ohm, etc) it will always dissipate the same amount of heat for a given power rating, no matter how you arrange the coils. If you have the same driver but at 8 ohms overall (single 8 ohm, 4 + 4 ohm, 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 ohm, etc) you will have less heat for the same given power due to less overall current flow, no matter how you arrange the coils. I hope this makes sense to you...

Formula for voice coil heat is expressed as: Q = I^2/Z When Q = Heat, I = current and Z = impedance (source http://www.aes.org/t...121210/7059.pdf) So, no matter how you wire, the current through the individual coil doesn't change for the same given power. What changes is the amount of current and voltage an amplifier produces for a given output power. In other words, no matter how you wire up a group of coils, they heat up exactly the same with the same amount of overall power. Do some basic searches on current and voltage in AC circuits and it will make more sense...

Batteries will never be completely open unless they are broken. Most often, the higher quality and high capacity batteries have exrtremely low ESR. Shizzon- 1. Draw a schematic diagram on paper of your battery bank. 2. Replace the battery drawings with resistors to represent ESR. 3. Now you will see why you are reading continuity from battery to battery. Now you cannot measure the ESR of a single battery with a DMM because the voltage potential from + to - post will damage the meter or severly throw off the reading. It is working in your case because you have removed the voltage potential because you are going across both positive terminals (there is no potential between +12 and +12, so no current flow). you are actually measuring the combined ESR of both batteries. There may be a small amount of voltage potential that is throwing your readings off due to the different float level of the batteries.

Everyone is making this extremely overcomplicated... Batteries have Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR). That is what you have been messing with...

Seriously. Take it to someone who knows what they are doing... If you can't isloate down to a ground issue in 5 minutes, you have bigger problems. Additionally, what you describe certainly sounds like you have a bunch of problems and can't figure out how to isolate them...

Stop and find someone who is knowlegable before you ruin your audio equipment or your truck...

The RMS rating of the subwoofer has nothing to do in the slightest with the amount of power you will need to reach a certain output level. The RMS rating of the subwoofer has nothing to do in the slightest with the amount of power you will need to reach a certain output level.

M5's point was good about tolerance. Also, a word on visible clipping. I could not visually discern anything that less than 5% THD (as measured with an H/P distortion analyzer) when looking at the waveform on a high-resolution O-scope. Laymans terms, you can't really get a good idea of THD looking at a sine wave on a scope....

As long as you do the math right you should be OK.

I just use bottled water... The cheap 1 gallon purifed stuff without Flouride... If you don't have city water with a ton of crap in it, you can use your tap also...