95Honda

Feed back is caused by a loop, don't think you have that. Need a new deck...

Just remeber this, if you exceed the RMS rating of the sub you will overheat the voicecoil. The gain setting on the amplifier has nothing to do whatsover with how much power the amplifier can produce...... So the whole "keep the gain down" is just false security..... If you have a sub that is thermally rated to handle no more than 2000 watts, you can destroy it with a 2000 watt amplifer 100% of the time if you really try... This is true for any subwoofer that has a realistic 2000 watt thermal rating....

No such thing as underpowering....

That is going to be retarded loud at any power level.... I mean ridiculometer pegged retarded loud.... I like it...

I haven't heard the sub yet, will let you know when I check it out next week....

If you want to do it cheap, run a piece of duct tape on the rear of the surround with a small amount of high-temp black silicone rubbed on it, stick side tward the surround. I have done this numerous times when peopl ehave brouggt me a sub that a screwdriver or Dewalt cordless drill had punctured. Believe it or not, I have a friend with a Tempest that he beats the shit out of and I did this (7!) years ago and it still works great... Something about the flexibility of the fibers in the duct tape.... BTW, silicone by itself will not work, you need some type of strength member....

If you modeled for (1) 4" port 20" long, then (4) 4" ports would be much, much more longer than 20" in length, each....

Same car, lol... I went with pods and a Q10 in the back....

You guys have DC coupling on your inputs?

Anything could have happened, there is no way anyone on here will be able to lead you to an answer over the internet.... Literally, a hundered things could have gone wrong with your system.... Is the amp still under warranty? If not, you are going to be out a $100 or so to get it fixed, that is pretty much the bottom line. For what it's worth, most car audio shops have people who are good at making things look real good, they don't really have much knowlege of how electonics actually work. The car audio shop is suspect to me as soon as I read your installer's gain and break-in statement, because both are pretty much wrong... Not trying to be a bearer of bad news, but it is what it is.....

Pretty much all class Ds have similar efficiency, none are no more "voltage suckers" than others within a small margin... What does doing "rated power" have to do with anything anyway? You couldn't tell the difference between 1800-2500 watts most of the time.... Pretend the "rated power" is 20% less and be happy with what you bought....

I think the amp has thermal shutdown also (like pretty much all amps these days), so I think you are kind of wasting time trying to figure this out... Either you did something to damage the amp, or a part went bad. That's pretty much it... And when something blows and you aren't there when it happens, it is 100% speculation at that point. Hell, we don't know if you had a strand of wire short between + output and Remote, or ground..... Something as simple as this can destroy an amp.... People forget about these things way to often... Personally, if I were Sundown, I wouldn't warrantee anything installed by the end user...

The gain setting has nothing to do with the maximum output of the amp. You can get "full tilt" with the gain at 1/10 setting. The amp is going into protect because of too much DC offset on the output, it has a protection circuit that monitors this and shuts the amp down when there is too much. This means the output stage or control of the output stage of the amplifier is damaged. This is also why the sub goes straight back. You need to get it repaired. Nothing (input signal, wiring, etc) can cause this problem other than the amplifier itself.

Wire it up one coil per channel and listen to it. Everything else is just mental masturbation until you do this.....

I am pretty stoaked to get him set up with the 10" Q also...... That thing should do pretty good with what he already has. As a side note, he also told me it gets very, very loud. Which isn't surprising considering the power and drivers. He said as long as the headers aren't open, it is fine even at freeway speed....

After a little tweaking (the knobs that indicate frequency on the Leviathan were not spot on) sound is great as first impression. We also ordered the Q10. I am heading to Seattle for a few weeks of vacation next week and will check it out/tweak it myself....

Shop has almost finished the pods, they look pretty nice. SDX7's aren't idealy on axis on the drivers side because of the clutch, but I still think they will sound great. I chose the SDX7's for the off-axis response due to the cone profile and phase plug... The tweeters are positioned pretty good... In all honesty, I don't think you could put a better combo in a kick pod like this. These are arguably a set of the best dynamic tweeters made at any price right now and the SDX7's aren't a slouch either. Between that and the Leviathan, I think this is going to be one awesome sounding front stage... I think I am going to order a FI Q 10" to round out the bottom end, he can get just under 1ft3 if fiberglassed properly and it will not take up any room in the back. The remaining 2 channels of the Leviathan will give 600 WRMS and should be a perfect match for the 10. Picture is from a phone and blury, will get more later...

4 ohms per channel. Why do you think this would be risky?

BTW, that TV isn't what is going there. I am still looking for the perfect size one to fit the opening...

Well, I finished the built in cabinets, I built them pretty much from scratch. Along with the Mantle. I built a paint booth in the garage and sprayed/sanded multiple coats with everything so it looks really good. Next step will be a set of shelves on each side and wiring for all the in-walls. Slow but steady progress.

It will sound better, last longer and run more efficient if you just run 4ohm/channel. You probably would barely notice the difference in output. Running minimum impedance is retarded for all but burps on a mic...

If you have a car or truck with a frame, you will always have lower resistance grounding to the frame. In some very limited cases with uni-body construction and very poor ground placement you could do better with seperate conductor all the way to the battery. In my opinion, most people run extra ground wires because they don't understand how they could do it better without running the extra wires... Or they think it looks cool...

Should sound pretty good. High end stuff. I think th eonly issue will be the driver side SDX7, it just won't be able to get real on axis do to the clearance needed to operate the clutch... I am sure it will work out fine though... Nice thing about the Leviathan, he has 2 channels left so a sub is always a future possibility... I will ask him to take some pictures.

I ended up getting him a set of SDX7s, the top-end Scan-Speak Neo 1" ring radiators and the Leviathan to power everything. It is all being installed this week in Seattle, I am still in Colorado so I won't be working on it. I will let you guys know how it turns out.