Everything posted by 95Honda
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Fi sub as H/T sub?
When you tune around 20Hz or lower and only play an octave or 2 above, group delay really isn't a very audible problem. Also don't forget that Passive radiators don't offer an advantage in group delay over standard 4th order vented alignments above resonance.....
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Fi BTL N1 or BTL N2
So in your long post you had your drivers choosen before your power, right? I'm not going to argue with you bud, the OP didn't really understand what he was asking and we pointed him in the right direction. Subjective answers only perpetuate incorrect knowlege. Believe it or not, there are people on here who have more experience and knowlege than you. Help by giving objective advice.....
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Fi BTL N1 or BTL N2
That is some of the most subjective nonsense I have ever read........
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X series true wattage
The RMS rating of a subwoofer has asolutely nothing to do with output.... Why is this BS still on this forum? The RMS rating of a subwoofer has absolutely, and I mean absolutely nothing to do with the power required to drive a loudspeaker to full output... There is no such thing as "impedance rise". There is an impedance curve, it goes up and down. System impedance cannot drop below DCR, ever. If you think you have measured this, your either full of crap or have no idea what you are doing... Only an idiot would spec out power before figuring out box alignment....
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Fi BTL N1 or BTL N2
I'm not trying to turn this into an argument, but this is the way it works- Determain your output goals (nothing to do with power yet) Determain your drivers you will use (still nothing to do with power) Design your enclosure, and then you will actually know what your power requirements are.... If you are able, apply the power you need to meet you goals......
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Fi BTL N1 or BTL N2
I'm sorry, but when you say you need something that handles 2-2.5Kw, that is just plain back-aswards... Do you have any clue on the box? If not, then power requirements are pretty much a guess....
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Looks the original Tumult is back....
I didn't really have much experience with the Avalanche. I do know that it has a smaller, less costly motor..... Little less throw also.... Other than that, I think they were similar. It was a shame they went out of production, I think they were a good deal. Bickering between them and Adire killed the whole thing....
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Fi sub as H/T sub?
If you tune low like 15-20Hz, I wouldn't worry too much about a SSF.
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Another Scam...
I haven't heard anything, I doubt I really will honestly..... I'll bet they probably laughed about after the fact.... That is also why I put a fake return address on there....
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Sundown 1500D or 2000D for 18" XCON D2?
No see, this is where you aren't understanding how this works. You take a BTL and give it 1 watt, it will be louder than any other FI sub with 1 watt. The BTL has the highest RMS rating, but requires the least amount of power for comparable output.... But this is a dead horse at this point, some people get this, others will "Give it it's RMS".....
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Sundown 1500D or 2000D for 18" XCON D2?
This is the biggest mistake people make. You think because the RMS rating is higher, it needs more power? I still saw the "Give it RMS" a few posts ago, lol.......
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Sundown 1500D or 2000D for 18" XCON D2?
Why? It is the thermal rating of the voicecoil. Period. The number one factor for power requirments is the enclosure alignment. The dumbest thing you read about this is when someone says "Give it it's RMS"..... Which amp? Whatever you get the better deal on....
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Parallel DVC options
If you use sufficent gauge wire, there will be no difference. If you use some B/S Wall Mart 18 gauge zip-cord, you might be able to measure, let alone hear a difference.....
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Couple of questions about 2005' XXX recone.
I think it is great you guys still service these drivers. They are on top of my all time list, I still am amazed every day when I listen to my set of 18s David put together for me 6 years ago......
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Just bought two blk friday X's for a home theater setup..
I always use stereo subs. It makes a huge difference. Especially for dealing with room anomalies. I cross over as low as 60Hz 6th order on my current subs. I can tell when my daughter has turned the gain knob down on one of my sub amps do to the enequal left/righ sub balance....
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Sundown 1500D or 2000D for 18" XCON D2?
The RMS rating of a subwoofer has absolutely nothing to do with power requirements in the slightest.
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The port area issue
The port area versus enclosure volume is only meant to keep idiots from using a 1" I.D. vent with a high-stroke 18" driver..... Other than that, it is pretty useless....
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What gauge wire
As long as you can properly terminate it to the driver/amp, there is no such thing as too big. You just get drastically diminishing returns after a certain point. As long as your runs aren't really long, I don't think there are many installs out there where #8 will introduce signifigant voltage drop....
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Looks the original Tumult is back....
Check out the link, it is HSU research......
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Looks the original Tumult is back....
It has the original single piece top plate. You can really tell with the tapered appearance...... That gen motor and the XXX were the same. My current XXX 18s in my H/T were build by David at RE with a pair of Tumult motors I sent to him. They are the same beast..... The same buildhouse built the XXX and Tumult motors.....
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Looks the original Tumult is back....
I think all of the newer XBL2 subs have more modular, cheaper motors. I think those original motors like on the Tumult and early XXXs was designed/machined as form follows function. When Adire switched to the next gen motors for all of thier stuff, they kind of went on a cost savings route. I see the same thing on the DIY cable stuff. Not that the new stuff is inferior by any means, I just think those first woofers were Dan Wiggins expression of a no cost compromise subwoofer...
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Looks the original Tumult is back....
HSU Research has a dead ringer for the original Tumult. Regaurdless of what they say, I bet it is pretty unchaged.... Really, an awesome driver...... My link
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8" sub
Also look into Tangband, I have used a ton of thier 8s. My dad currently has 4 of them in his F150 behind the seat running on a MMATS 2200.1. They have survived 4 years already.... The original RE series 8s are great little drivers, I used to get them for $35 a pop, the box in my sig has 8 of them. I doubt they have changed much, these were always made in China I think..... The box in my Avatar did 143db on the Termlab w/150 watts... Any of the 8s sold on here are great also...
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Another Scam...
I have it ready, I even packed it up in a Nikon box. I am going to drop that bitch off in the morning. I hope it is fermented by the time it gets there.... Guy gave me some address in Bulgaria...... It is going to take a week at least.....
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Another Scam...
It is getting so bad it is almost comical... We are selling one of our older SLR cameras on a site similar to Craigslist over here in Germany... So I get the response "I would love to buy the camera, only problem is I am on buisness in Russia and my wife lives in Africa, If I will pay you more than $200 than you are asking can you ship it to her? I will pay you immediately upon reciept"... blah blah blah.... It is almost scary that anyone actually falls for these... So I decided what I am going to do... My 2 year old daughter just filled a diaper with the nastiest crap I think she has ever taken. I am going seal it in a plastic bag, box it up and mail it to the guy....