slim2fattycake

hehe there's your problem. 3 yellowtops. If you told Rob you were running yellowtops, he would tell you to use different batteries. He recommends against using yellowtops for car audio. Get rid of them and get deka 9a31s. You probably will be okay with two of them in the rear. I had 3k on on one 9a31 in the trunk with a deka 9a34 under the hood and the xp 270 alt. I only drop down to 13.4-13.5s even with all accessories on and full tilt tone.

O yeah, I forgot. You could go sealed with that 18 as well.

You cannot turn it up that much if it is already moving a lot. You cannot free air the same amount of power as you had in a box. But if it doesn't make the noise then the sub is fine. Weird that the sub doesn't make a noise free air but in the box and then another sub doesn't make the noise in the same box. And both to your question.

If budget was the problem then I would have spent more on design and testing instead of equipment. Placement and design are way more important than equipment let alone sub size. Now that you actually have too small of a space, you have no room to try different orientations of sub/port and box. For Fi's subs, you shouldn't go out of the range of recommendations much at all. The best suggestion is to try whatever size box you can fit and see how it sounds. It looks like you would need a 6" aeroport at least to not have port noise. Or Just tell your friend he made the wrong choice and now he has to sell the 18" SSD and get a smaller sized sub. To stay within the same price as the 18" SSD, you could have gotten 2 15" Xs and sealed them or 2 12" Xs and ported them. That would have been better for your space. Really, I would have gone with a single 12" sub. But that's just me.

Shoulda measured up before getting that 18. You should probably know that bigger size sub doesn't always mean more SPL. And that is 6 cuft NET not gross.

270 XP is pure sex. It will fully power a 2200 watt amp without having to have another battery. If you plan on adding another 2200 then just wait until then to get another battery. Get this alt with your single 2200 amp first and see if you have voltage drops. If you do then get another battery.

get on a meter and you may be disappointed lol.

2 Audiopipe 30001Ds = $600 for 6k watts, 3 Audiopipe 30001Ds = $900 for 9k watts, or 4 Audiopipe 30001Ds = $1200 for 12k watts.

lol

As far as I am concerned, until it's in your hands, the seller is responsible. I.e. if it never shows up, they need to take it as a loss and send another. No reputable company would leave you out in the cold because of a screw up before it ever hit your possession. And I'm pretty sure no judge would side with them if they did. I wasn't mad at Mark. I was pissed off at DHL for a retard cannot decipher 4 numeric symbols in the right sequence. I was also pissed for the bitch that signed for it knowing it wasn't her address or to her.

great score.

You really gotta ask? lol

Or a SPL-Lab meter, right?

keep stock and put another battery in the back. I'd choose deka 9a31. Don't get a yellowtop. There's also powermaster as well if you have the money. i don't think you need a high output alt.

I have put 1500 watts on a 12" SSD before, 2k on two 10" SSDs, and this 15" SSD only got 750 watts.

just try to lift the dustcap then if you think its separated. Also, were your cuts perfectly straight and seams perfect? The loads of glue isn't going to be a sure thing unless your perfect with your cuts. If its just the dustcap, you can get another dustcap and put it on here, no need for a recone.

they can take more if your smart about it. I had a 12" SSD that took 1500 watts daily.

yeah have the gains down and just listen and watch the sub when you set it up.

do you plan on keeping the amp for a while? do you plan on upgrading another SSD 15 so you have 2? I'd get dual 2 ohms for a 1 ohm load and just have extra headroom.

That should be easy to spot. Definitely not a problem when I had it. Doubt it's the problem here.

They delivered it to 5020 instead of 5202. I remember looking at a signature confirmation picture and it had 5020 as the house number instead and so I went to that house and got my sub. I called mach5 and Mark couldn't do anything about it either as it was out of his hands. It was the shipping company. The person that signed for it said she knew it wasn't hers and my name was on the package and she still signed for it. What a hoe...

feel your hand around the box on all the seams as well as around the sub mounting hole itself. See if you have air leaks. You did tell me that this was your first box so its an easy mistake for first timers. Did you silicone the seams like I said?

talk to UPS. tell them to ask their driver to verify what address he delivered it to. check with neighbors and houses on your street that have almost similar addresses. I had this problem with DHL once.

You got this from me on CA. I didn't hear any problems when I free aired it before shipping to you. Everything looks fine as well. I even listened to it in the previous owner's car.

Wait, so is the REM wire connected straight to the battery instead of the remote turn on from the head unit?