ABXX49

Unless someone has the exact set up you do, it's really hard for anyone to answer. All cars respond differently to every adjustment you make. You're best bet is trying to find an SPL competitor that has the same vehicle and pick his/her brain.

Sounds to me you just need a few amps with remote gain control (bass knob). When you're EQing your system, it should be used to make cuts at frequencies to tame them down, not to boost them. Also, just a hunch I should throw this out there, never use your bass boost on your amplifier or HU.

One more step further away from the competition.

Actually, I couldn't have been happier with my Icon on 300.

Hence why mine was 'loud.' The type of music I was listening to at the time took full advantage of the range that my box worked in. If I tried to play anything other than a specific type of music, it was terrible in my opinion.

My first system was a 4th order. It got loud, but as a whole, I found myself liking ported enclosures much more. Again though, it's all dependent on your goals and space for what type of enclosure you want.

This SINGLE story is enough to make me stick with my Sundown amplifiers. Just one story out of, what I presume to be, hundreds.

Are there size limitations?

Yes, I had both kind of enclosures, Tlines, normal ported, and 4th order bandpass. The 4th order bandpass could get louder, because power handling is better then in a ported box, and Tline was waay more efficient then any of those boxes. I'm pretty sure for a T-line to be as efficient as a bass reflex design, the box has to be MUCH larger. How are you defining efficiency though?

thanks always willing to learn maybe not in school but in life yes. Welcome! Not to lecture, but I think you should take advantage of that FREE education they give you.

Not that I would ever knock Jake or his products, but don't you think you're rushing things? There are a lot of options for under $200, but as m5 said, we can't help too much without knowing what you want from a subwoofer.

This is the way things like this should be done. Great work!

It's one of those things where you have to be careful about putting all your eggs in one basket. I'd recommend going to school for something like electronics, or something at a technical school. Get a degree that you can always fall back on.

If it's just a small crack and NOTHING has shifted, you could probably throw some sort of epoxy on it. Worst case scenario is that you need a FULL recone from the magnet up.

I'd go up to 1/0. That's a lot for 4 gauge wire imo.

SWEET. I'm so jealous.

If you listen to a lot of rap mainly, you could tune a bit higher. 33-35Hz would be a good range. The rule of thumb is never play more than 1 octave below your tuning frequency. (Tune to 34, don't play below 17) EDIT: There is no way to really know how building one way vs another is going to change in your vehicle. If you've got an SUV I'd recommend sub up port back, and a trunk sub and port back.

I've typically build my subs down firing for safety purposes. I would hate to have someone/child put there foot through the cone. As far as placement, that is going to be trial and error.

Just checked their website for a few seconds. Noting that they don't mentions RMS power anywhere, I'd stay away. I didn't read any further into it.

$400 for what!?

I thought the same thing..lol Looks good though!

We can only help you so much here for the most part. Check out: diyAudio and Home Theater Forum - Home Theater Systems - HomeTheaterShack for more solid info. Those guys are the 'gurus.' Do you're research before you post there.

He's recommending buying one of the tested and tried designs they have on the website. You can build you're own if you want, but it IS NOT like putting together a car audio system. First you're going to want to select the drivers, I recommend heading over to Zaph Audio and reading the driver reviews to find acceptable drivers. You're going to want to see how 'low' or 'high' the drivers play by looking at the frequency graphs. After you find some drivers that will work well together, you need to design a cross over. I have NO experience with that unfortunately. I'm pretty sure you can find it on the internet, or buy a book on it. No one can just say "you'll need this capacitor, this resistor, and a few filters at A, B, and C." You will need to test out many, many different combination of those. That is why I'd recommended a tried and true design. Unless you have the patience to learn such things!

If you build the box to Fi's recommendations, the bigger you go, the louder it will be.