KU40

watch your ass at Arizona watering holes... Yeah I read that too. That sounds brilliant.

Ideally you'd want to position your fans on the end of the amp rack, not directly over them. That way you can have the fans at one end blowing air over the amps while the fans on the other end suck it away. Blowing over the cooling fins works better than blowing directly down on top of them.

x2

You're not missing anything. It's worthless in 99.9% of installs. It's normally centered around 45 hz, which is where most subs and vehicles have a natural peak already, so there's no need to add on.

You can base it mostly off of personal preference for most drivers.

MD1D

Use the front RCAs for the front component set and the rear RCAs for the rear speakers.

You can only have one crossover on at a time. If you set it to full pass, neither of the high or lowpass crossovers will be used. You can only use either the highpass or the lowpass. But what you can do is use the subsonic filter as a highpass. So you can set your subsonic at 80 hz or wherever you want it to be highpassed at (to be determined by your ears upon installation), then set the lowpass wherever you want to cut them off at up top. For the 4 channel, you'll want them on channels 1 and 2 and highpass them. The mids on the 4 channel go on 3 & 4, where you can again use the subsonic as a highpass plus the regular lowpass to bandpass the mid. Why are you buying basically two different versions of the same speaker? If you want a 3-way system, buy a true midbass.

I don't understand why people have this notion that a sub should not play above a certain frequency, and that it's a good idea to have your midbass play down to 50hz. Let's think about this, do you honestly think a 6.5" midbass is going to be able to match output levels of a 12" subwoofer at 50hz, 70hz, 100hz? Not only that, but having a midbass play down to 50hz creates a lot of unwanted work, you now have to deaden the shit out of your doors because they're going to buzz like crazy. I too used to have midbass that could play to 50hz, hell they could play to 40hz without issue (Peerless SLS 6.5"), but that added a lot of annoyances with door resonances. I did my own little test on this, and it turns out your mind likes to play tricks on you. My sub was playing from 20hz-100hz and I had my midbass crossed @ 50hz then I moved it to 63hz, and then to 80hz, and then again to 100hz. Guess what, the sound didn't change one bit. The over all stereo, sounded exactly the same with midbass playing @ 50hz as it did @ 100hz. You think it's louder because you feel the vibrations up front in your pant legs and your sideviews shake like crazy, yet there is no added benefit to this what so ever. I think what ends up happening is a lot of users enjoy the bloated lowend from 30-50hz that a lot of installs offer, they then assume that the driver is horrible above that point but in reality its that bloated lowned that really kills it. Most subs can play up to 100hz w/o issue, but it's the install and tunning that makes or breaks it. I disagree. You may have found that in your install and that's ok, you can do what you want. But when all that I did was drop the crossover on my sub from 80 hz to about 65-70 hz about two years ago, I noticed a big difference. The midbass was a lot less muddy and you could hear a number of frequencies more clearly. Also, in 98% of the installs by members on this forum, at full tilt there's no way the front stage can keep up with the sub. I have a feeling that's what happened to you. The sub was so much louder that it drowned out the mid up front. Did you try lowering the crossover on the sub at the same time? IMO, 80-100 hz sounds a lot better and more crisp out of a mid than a sub, for the very fact that the mid was designed to play in that range. It has nothing to do with the size of the cone, so nobody misunderstand me. But subwoofers are designed to play subbass, which is generally less than 60 hz IMO.

I accidentally left this open while I went and played softball, then showered, ate, and watched Jumper. That would be a cool gift to have.

If it's just an SPL box for competitions, tune it high (40+ hz) to increase SPL. But you'll have to do some playing with different tuning frequencies to find out what's loudest for your car. It may be a box tuned to 45 hz, 55 hz, or 60 hz. You won't know until you try. If it's just for burping and no music, the subsonic filter won't matter as long as you play above the tuning. But don't play any music or a tone below tuning frequency without a subsonic filter. It'll be a one note wonder box, but in SPL competitions that's all you need.

I don't understand your wiring of front speakers to the amp. Try to use words like components, coaxials, woofer, tweeter, etc. Then walk us through which channels of the amplifier power what and how they are wired. Why do you have the JL crossover wired to alpine coaxials?

Posting what equipment you will be using is a BIG help. That's 24.6 square cubes gross. Are you building a wall? My guess is for like four 18s? In your signature you have a single 15.

Our 2 other best players are going to be gone for tonight's basketball game. So I guess I'll have to score 40 for us to have a chance. None of our other regular players are aggressive with the ball at all, nor are they good handlers. I guess we'll get to see how I fare against the quadruple team. Really sucks, too, because the team we play is 0-4 and we really need this win since we're only 1-3 ourselves. Not that it'll matter in the league, but not being last is nice.

I hate drama. I realize I brought a little over here in the RTMS, but that's really uncharacteristic of me.

lol God I wish I still had my geo metro. That thing was 4 cylinders of fire and mayhem. Lucky that thing didn't buckle in the other direction. That would almost be like slamming into a wall with some vehicles. It would mess up some front ends for sure.

Haha that was helpful of the scanner.

the only difference between power and ground wire is the color of the insulation.

I just talked to myself for about 2 minutes.

Yeah, basically anything but ED. I had some of the first flat cone k's, which were ok, but thankfully nothing ever went wrong with them.

email [email protected]

I've always done it by ear as well.

Hello

Just be nicer to your equipment!

Larger boxes are more efficient in general, not just ported boxes. But they also lower the power handling because the subs reach mechanical limits easier. So really it depends on how much power you are going to put on them. If you are going with their RMS power, you don't need to build the enclosure any larger.