KU40

Each moofer powered wiz 5000 wattz ? in fact, no one else seemed to pay any mind to how retarded that question was... Those were very funny replies, I lol'd.

SPL is not all about stuffing tons of equipment in a vehicle. It's very possible to make two 18s louder than fourteen 18s, even with the same power to each sub in both installs.

Didn't sleep for shit last night. If it wasn't thunder waking me up, it was an arm asleep or the fan blowing the sheet so that it tickled my back. And I have to drive 5 hours this morning But I did manage to have a good dream about a few beautiful women somewhere in there.

Man that thing's wild. Five valves per cylinder? Extra intake or exhaust? Intake. They will always favor the intake side. Look at any vehicle and the intake valves will always be larger and or more. That was my hunch.

Happy Birthday fearless leader

probably around 25 hz.

How do you know they haven't? I'm sure somebody has. People put stuff in vans all the time.

You can't. If you run a mid and tweeter on the same channel you have to have passive crossovers between the amp and speaker.

I've heard lots of good things as well. I think you'll be happy.

No

Just leave the gain turned down.

What? Is there a question in there?

My nephew has OI. He just broke his leg for the 3rd time in 8 months yesterday. I hate that fucking disease. All the boy wants to do is play baseball and he can barely even walk. Man that would be awful. I feel bad for your nephew. I consider myself lucky as I've never broken a bone.

The cupholder fits a 32 oz. gatorade correctly? Nice. I haven't seen one before that can do that.

Did you just call me a knob? I don't even know what that means. Try reading through the links in my signature.

No. Each channel from the head unit can only put out a certain amount of power and it doesn't depend on how many channels are being used because they are independent of each other. Try putting an external amplifier on the fronts, that'll liven them up quite a bit.

Whew I'm tired after reading that one long sentence. If that 16 cubic feet is after port and sub displacement, you're tuned to..............wait for it............46 hz. That's your problem. You need to build a new box. Or at least lengthen the ports to 8". That would lower your tune to around 35 hz and make it a bit more listenable. But it would be hard for me to believe that you don't have port noise with only 75 sq. inches of port for those eight 12s. You may have to redesign a new box to get more port area if you experience noise.

Most of the national chains should have the proper equipment to do it and do it right. Whatever you do, check them before they put them back on the vehicle. They have a bad of habit of just throwing the tire on there and then weighting it where needed instead of trying to remount the tire in a better position. Ideally, you want the least amount of weights needed and spaced out instead of in one area. Large wheels and tires are usually not an issue, diameter-wise; it's usually the extreme widths that cause them fits. My old man's '90 GT has 10.5" tires on the rear and I went to 3 different places and broke 3 machines until I gave in and had to take it to Tire Rack. That's true too, didn't think about the balancing aspect. Especially if you only put weights on the inside. You broke three machines? How did they break?

Man that thing's wild. Five valves per cylinder? Extra intake or exhaust?

What size is it? The only problem with low pro tires is that people are afraid of scratching the rims when they get mounted. If that guy was inexperienced or had inexperienced help he may be worrying that he'd have to pay for new rims if one got scratched. Or else he was just lazy and didn't want to go through the trouble since they require a few more seconds of extra care and patience.

That's a good way to describe it. I didn't know it was an M. Night Shyamalan movie until the ending credits, and then I was like ohhhhh makes sense.

My bad, I should have looked more closely. From the link it appears those are actually separate terminals for each component of the coaxial. One set of terminals for the tweeter, one set for the mid. The side with the capacitor is for the tweeter. You'll want to hook both positives to the positive on one channel of the amp, and both negatives to the negative on that channel of the amp. If you only hook up one you'll either only get mid or only get tweeter sound.

Is it possible to keep welcome threads simply as welcome threads and real questions in the proper other forums?

Peak ratings are worthless. With a subwoofer, you have no idea how long they made it last with that peak rating. Some sub companies may say if it lasts for 5 seconds, that's peak. Others maybe 1/2 second. And others simply double the RMS or even just make something up with absolutely no basis. I have no idea what JBL does, and I'd just run an 800 watt RMS amp on that sub. I'd say it's impossible to tell if that sub can handle 1500 watts RMS without actually getting one and testing it. Especially since RMS numbers can be made up themselves, or at least measured differently with different companies. Back in the day it was said that JL Audio set the RMS for their subs by playing the wattage for 24 hours continuously on the sub. If it survived, that was the RMS. Other companies set the power ratings strictly by coil size standards. I forget what they are, but it's like a 2" coil is rated for 500 watts, 3" coil 1000, etc. That is independent of any cooling mechanisms that the manufacturer built into the motor. Other manufacturers have their own tests. There are nearly as many ways to rate a subwoofer's power handling as their are companies that sell them.

Prefab ported boxes usually have little in the way of SQ. They get lucky once in a while with the correct airspace, but almost all that I've seen use a tuning that's way too high.