KU40

You wouldn't need quite a few amps for the last option. If you got subs that are dual 4 ohm, you could get 8 and wire each sub's vc's in series, then parallel the whole lot for a final 1 ohm load. Or you could get dual 1 ohm coils, wire four sets of two subs in series so that you basically have four 4 ohm loads, then wire those in parallel for a 1 ohm load on the amp. There are many other options, these are merely two. Oh the helpful wonders of dual voice coils! I'd say if it's a personal SPL machine, use many subs in a ported box in a cut through.

Did sets of two bicep lifts, two shoulder lifts, three back lifts, 10 pullups in a superset, about 100 crunches and various ab exercises in the C-sit position. Then I did three miles on the stationary bike as I begin the restrengthening process for my knee. Good thread idea.

Some photos from a car show the gf and I walked through during my visit to her down in southeast KS: Me in front of a '69 Camaro. I blink in every picture. It's ridiculous.

Are you flooded in over there Ryan2? I heard I-70 was closed down near Junction City somewhere because water was crossing the road. They even closed it between Lawrence and Topeka for a bit. This rainstorm brought the heaviest rain I think I've ever seen in my life. It started 15 minutes before I left work (of course couldn't wait that extra 15 minutes so that I could get to my car, so I got soaked). Right after I got home I got a call from a coworker who takes the same highway I do asking if I got through. I said yeah, just had to swerve around some standing water in low spots. But he said the road is impassible now, a creek is overflowing it. When I got home I checked my rain gauge and it said 4". It had been almost exactly one hour since the rain started. Incredible.

I think that should be fine.

I'd also suggest a single amp to drive both subs. Not only is it easier to set up, but it would likely save a little space and maybe some money. With only a single cab and another amp for the interior speakers going in, you may need all the space you have.

What kind of system is this for? Music, video games, movies? If it's for movies primarily, you may want to tune a little bit lower. A number of movies have some rumbles down in the 16-20 hz range. So not only would you want to pick those up, but most home amps don't have subsonic filters so you'd want to protect the sub a bit with a lower tune as well (though some do have a set ssf). If it's primarily for music, you may want to tune a few hz higher to help with the output in the 30s. That being said, I think my home subs are tuned to 24 hz and I like it and have never had problems .

Can't say you didn't get what you deserved.

Is the dust cap loose or have a hole in the glue holding it down anywhere?

Shut it down basically. It won't power off, it just sorta trips a circuit breaker in there.

Well I didn't mean to scare you, I just know a lot of manufacturers have that policy. I've had a number of amps with tape seals over the screws for the back plate on the amp and if the tape had been removed or messed with for any reason, the warranty was void. I couldn't remember if my SAE1200D had that on the back.

This is stupid. OP, read the noob posting guidelines and if you have a real question, ask in a new thread.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you may have voided the warranty by opening it up for those pictures.

I don't know that I'd turn the gain on the amp ALL the way up. I think it would be too easy to accidentally flip the remote gain over a few notches too far and send it into clipping. I'd rather set the gain on the amp properly, then use the remote to turn it down. You'd also have a lot more finite and incremental control over the output of the subs that way.

Subsonic filters won't make the amp turn off or cut out. To hook up an ipod or similar, there are 3.5-mm headphone jack to male RCA adapters. I know Radio Shack has them. If your component speakers would cut off depends on the install. Are the RCAs for the subs hooked to a subwoofer output on the head unit or to a front or rear output? Are the components run off of the head unit or external amplifier?

I liked my Planet Audio amp. It stayed alive as several other amps in my installs failed over the years. I think I had it in my car for about 3 years powering some highs, now it's doing sub duty in my brother's car. It was a TT2300, 150 x 2 @ 4 ohms. They had a number of lines, the lowest was very average, the highest (big bang series I think) was pretty decent. Not sure about their new stuff.

If you find that doesn't work, try using a different source for the signal, like hook an mp3 player straight to the amp or something.

No, you only measure from the inside of the flair.

This is why you can't depend on impedance rise in daily systems. I really wish everybody would stop recommending that. It would also help us immensely if you told us what equipment you were running.

I would rather have midbass in the doors rather than kick panels, I believe there's much better midbass capability in doors. Any chance you can put them in your doors instead? That would save you feet room as well.

Does your Panasonic have a dedicated sub RCA output? Does it have crossovers for your interior speakers? If you have the RCAs coming out of the front or rear RCA outputs, and not a sub, and the head unit has high pass crossovers for the interior speakers, that crossover will be passed to the sub also. If that's the case, that's the problem. You'd need to turn the high pass filter on the head unit off.

Yeah, Pet World. My friend manages it. Wheat State pizza is also in that shopping area, it's good stuff. I'm not going. I'll be out of town, plus I left the SPL scene years ago.

No, speaker wire next to RCAs will not introduce noise. RCAs next to power wire won't do it, either. It's a myth. As for the Audiobahn, I'm not sure of the power output. My guess is it's rated something like 2 x 75 @ 4 ohms.

Maybe it's not completely your fault if you truly got a bad amp, but look at it this way- it's definitely not FI's fault if the amp is bad. I read back to your other thread and you said that you tested the impedance of the subs when you were initially having amp problems and they were both confirmed as dual 1s. I assume instead of impedance you mean resistance? Anyways, the only company that may be liable is Alpine. Since they know they sold you a previously returned amp, there should be some liability on their part. Call them.

The amp's crossover probably sucks.