KU40

The BL liked the box and tuning frequency better. Change your box setup for the MT.

Who knows. Buy it and then you tell us.

Well it is a normal ported box.

If it was too low they wouldn't design and manufacture it that way. There's a reason your amp's input goes from something like .2v to 6v. You'll just have the gain a little higher.

Is your box leaking air anywhere

Washed and waxed the Explorer yesterday, he's all shiny now.

2.8

You may want to rethink your choice of amplifier. With two dual 2 ohm subs your final wiring configurations are .5, 2, or 8 ohms. You will only get 1800 watts out of that Rockford at 2 ohms. Just in case you were thinking you'd get all 2500 at 1 ohm.

I don't know why I'm starting this. How do you know he will be fine with 45-50? I've read threads before where people argued over the "rule" 12-16 per sq ft. I just want your reason, personal experience with this sub, or? Because I also have a 15" sub that's actually a bit higher-powered and with just as much xmax and I have 45 sq. inches and its fine.

Hook up a power and ground to it, plus the remote wire from the head unit. The one output is the remote to your amps. The relay adds available power to the remote line. Most remote lines on head units only put out 500 mA or something, and some big amps need a few hundred mA to get started. If you have too many amplifiers or other electronics hooked to the remote, it won't have enough power to turn them all on. But a relay steps up available amperage to something like 5-10 amps if I'm not mistaken. If you go to radio shack or even a car audio place and ask for a 12v relay they'll give you one and the wiring diagram. As far as I now Bosch is the most common manufacturer. Web search that and you'll learn about it.

Are you measuring voltage using your vehicle's voltmeter, or a DMM at the amp?

Port width and height depends on the port area that the sub needs in the given airspace. I'd give either of those subs about 25-35 sq. inches in a slot port. Length depends on port area, net box volume, and of course what you want to tune the enclosure to. I'd suggest downloading a box modeling program like winISD so that you can play with port sizes and see their relationship with each box.

I just sent my mom a check to help her build the fence she wants/needs at her house. My brother and I are also going to build it for her. The only thing I asked for for Christmas when she asked what I wanted was a Sundown SAE1200d, which was $300. But she gave me all these other presents also, so I just invested her 300 in stocks and am now giving her back her 300 plus the profits gained. But with the way she is, there's a 99.9% chance she'll rip the check up and not accept it. She has done that every other time in the past that I've tried to pay her back for things.

I would suggest doing at least one mod, and that is converting the 6x9s to 6.5" holes for components. If you just want 6x9s, you'll be stuck with coaxials as far as I know (Haven't seen any 6.5" plate components), and those are not good for SQ. You'll still be able to keep the factory grills so it will still look factory, just make a little mounting plate that covers the 6x9 hole and has an opening for a round 6.5" instead. As for components, I would pick raw drivers from a place like Madisound and integrate them together with active crossovers, either on the amplifiers or an external electronic crossover.

Check the coils of the subs, see if one is low or open.

You don't need 72 sq. inches of port area. 45-50 will be sufficient.

Rained about two inches last night. I was a little worried about hail since the storm that moved through had dropped up to tennis ball-sized hail 100 miles west. This week went by pretty fast. I get off an hour early today, yay

Yes

One run of 1/0 to a distribution block would be sufficient.

what voice coils do your subs have?

Make sure you didn't damage the subs during your little display of bottoming them out.

Actually probably not. Depends greatly on the size of the stock alternator, but not many are made over 150 amps. How long are you going to be able to play your system pulling 250 amps with a 150 amp alternator? How about with a 90 amp alternator?

It would be best to tune that way, yes. But if you never play music below your tuning frequency, you never have to worry about it. If you have a box tuned to 35 hz and only listen to rock music with the kick drum at 65 hz or whatever, you will never have a problem.

Last you a year? Any of these subs with the proper power applied will last forever.

The main thing with Explorers is that once in a while they'll have transmission problems. If you test drive one, make sure it shifts correctly, run it through the gammut. But I think the newer ones, (maybe 2003 and up?) Ford changed the transmission and they are better now. I've never had any problems with mine though.