KU40

Read my post above. The salespeople are trying to do their job, which is to sell you their own products. But they have to discourage you from buying other things first.

What engine is in a 98 Explorer? The base models have the 4.0 liter pushrod V6. My XLT has the 4.0 SOHC V6. There is also the option for the 5.0 V8.

Your gross volume number is right. However, a 7" wide x 13.5" tall x 16" long port does not give you 4.4 cubes @ 40 hz. Factoring in sub displacement of .4 cubes (guesstimate), you have 4.53 cubes net and my winisd says it's tuned to about 48 hz. If you want a 4.4 cube box and tuning of 40 hz, lengthen the port to 28" and increase the gross box size from 5.9 to 6.3 cubes.

Those subs would be fine. You can always limit the power output of the amplifier with the gain knob.

Peaking at 36 hz is way low for SPL. You need to tune that higher if you want to gain. That will have the biggest impact of anything you could do. Oh, and yes temperature does have an effect on it. I heard of a big time competitor a few years ago that recommended running your AC full blast for a while before the run to get the car's temperature down as much as possible, turn it off and let the voltage get back up, then burp.

No

I would wire it correctly to a switched source. You don't want to have the hassle of turning that switch on and off every time you get in and out of the car. Just get a DMM and connect it to every wire in the harness until you find the ignition wire that turns off when the key is off.

A guy that works at the gym I go to commented today that my arms look bigger and shoulders broader than when I started there 6 months ago. That was encouraging to hear. I mean yeah I'd sure hope I'm seeing results after the work I've put in, but it's nice to have it be noticed. In an ungay way.

Did you take math in high school? Volume of a cylinder is area of circle * height. AKA: pi*r^2 * height..

That's just it. I wouldn't buy a SUBwoofer that could only play well down to 40 hz. Different subs are made differently and thus play different frequencies differently. The Xcon is made to be a subwoofer, not a midbass. Also, I would imagine that the midbass frequencies are just fine from the Xcon, it's just that the box is making them quieter because of the exaggerated low end. If you isolate the midbass frequencies and send adequate power to it, I'm sure you'll find the lower midbass just fine from the xcon.

Hard one to guess on but if i had to say anything underpowering a sub wouldnt make it as efficient and during summer time YOU WANT efficiency on your sub so stick with the bl and get your full potential out of it. Dont waste your money on something you cant get it to perform to its potential! AKA: im digging how you roll in your volvo love my 92!!! 240gl That is the opposite of true. As a sub receives more power, it gets less efficient. Power compression is not your friend.

Indeed. Moved.

May have been a short inside the amplifier. Try hooking it up to somebody else's car.

Grand cherokee came with a 136 amp alt and I had a wal mart battery up front with 850 cca and 80 AH already in it. Like I said got a BT100 in the back and after talking with an RD sales rep who I have bought several things from said the 1750.1 would do .5 easy. I agree about testing voltage though just to be sure. What is the best way to do it? My buddy has a regular volt meter I could use. Edit: I see you were questioning whether or not my electrical could handle .5 ohm not the amp. What is the difference of running 2500 watts at .5 ohm or 1 or 2 ohms? Lower impedances make the amp less efficient and have to draw more power. As for the gain, there's no problem in having your head unit at 21 and setting the amp gain higher. That's the whole purpose of the gain. Your gain probably goes from like .2-6 volts, which means if you had a source with only a .2 volt output, your gain would have to be all the way up. There's nothing wrong with that. Having a higher gain setting in and of itself does not cause clipping, as there is no "magic spot" where clipping starts to occur like with most head units. Do not use the bass boost to get more output. Just adjust the gain higher. And yes, increasing the sub level output on the head unit will increase the signal voltage to the sub amp. I'd set the gain with the sub level output maxed out, that way you have a lot of play to adjust for higher or lower bass volume with different songs.

I wasn't sure if I should have posted it here or in the FI section. Well like I said, if you'd like me to move it there I can. As for the box, try searching for bandpass box on here. However I don't believe I remember anybody talking about building one for them on here. Bandpasses are not that common. Be prepared to build several boxes to get it right as they can be tricky. Maybe try a Google search, there may be some general rules of thumb about bandpass boxes that might get you started.

A large enclosure doesn't limit the mechanical ability of the sub, it just reduces the mechanical power handling ability of the sub. The sub can still move the same amount in any box.

You don't need the same topic in two sections. If you'd like this thread moved to a different section where you think you'd get different viewers, I can do that just let me know.

there is no set number for +- watts for a sub, it depends on the box the sub is in. The coil still has a thermal rating.

Ok! I set the head unit bass gain to 50%, the channels to 100% rear (those are the outputs to the amp) and played a 100hz test tone. (sine wave) Readings: Xover on center: 10.1 Xover 100%: 22.7 Xover 0%: 3.7 So since the voltage is changing, it's a problem with my input signal? Looks like the crossover is functioning just fine. Based on those voltages, the signal was down -15db @ 100hz when the crossover was set to 50hz, which is -3db more than expected (12db/oct slope) but could be due to inaccuracies in the crossovers (the pot style crossovers on amplifiers are rarely 100% accurate in range from the tests I've seen). So just to clarify, the two problems you are experiencing is weak output from the amplifier and you feel you are getting too much of the higher range of sound out of the subwoofer? Correct. I had the x-over down to 50hz and still could hear vocals. Power output may be subpar, I didn't really bump it for long since i wasn't sure what was being fed through the subs and didn't want to damage them. When I did have it up high it seemed as if my old amp which is putting out roughly 600watts less powered the subs better. The subs are under powered by 200 watts each. I was thinking I could possibly try turning the gain down on the LOC? I don't know how that would affect the crossover and what it does to the input signal. You won't damage the subs playing higher frequencies or vocals through them.

You only need one thread about this, and it belongs in the for sale section.

Maybe an obvious question, but did you charge the battery before installing it?

Digital Audio makes car audio amplifiers as well, if it's the same company. If I recall they're somehow linked with Audiobahn, but I'm not sure if it's true. The chrome on the speakers leads me to believe it's something similar though.

I'd definitely throw in more port area and a higher tuning frequency. However I have never used the subs so I don't know what would work best. If he is planning a blowthrough I'd imagine he wants it fairly loud? Definitely tune ~10 hz higher then.

I had an ST-1000D about 6-7 years ago. It was my first big sub amp. It did the job pretty well. I read a review by a car audio magazine and it didn't quite do rated power, like 962 watts and at a decently high THD as has been said. But will that matter on subs? No. It seemed to be pretty solid overall. I'd say they're about average. Obviously better than the Legacy/Pyle stuff, IMO slightly better than Hifonics, but I like my Sundown better.

You could take up some of the space inside the box. Lowering net volume while keeping port dimensions the same would raise tuning frequency.