KU40

Everyone is going to say they like it. Why don't you try being more specific with your question and what you want out of the sub. Also try using the search feature. Tons of threads have already been started about it.

i only have 1400watts max to work with but im going to use the bp power up grade By volume he means physical space for the enclosure.

Do not be a menace. If you do you will get no further support from people on this site.

Oh, so you want to do like a kerf flare. Search for it on here, I'm pretty sure somebody has done a write-up of how to do it. Basically you make vertical cuts along the back side of the port that don't go all the way through the wood. This allows you to bend the wood backwards in a curve.

Do yourself a favor and stop thinking about max wattage. it means nothing. Also, I'm not sure where you got that the Q can handle more power than the Bl. Here, I'll quote from the tech section of Fi's website that you didn't read: "The BL line is pretty much a lower power alternative to a BTL or a higher power alternative to the Q series of woofers. "

Run a router over the edges of the port.

Man I needed more sleep. Oh well, I have tomorrow off so I can sleep in tomorrow morning. Yeah right. I'll still wake up at 6:45-7.

It is so fun. Watching the big splash as they attack, never knowing when it'll happen then BAM. I hadn't gotten into it until this year. I carry no less than 100 top water plugs with me at all times. On the deck of my boat there are usually at least two topwaters tied on. Do they work better in shallower water though? The reason I've never really used them before is because I've never had them work. But recently on my trip to Minnesota they worked for the river I fished on, and another time at a farm pond. That's pretty much it. I can't really get any lake fish to bite them here.

I must have glossed over the sealed in .2 cubes part. I agree, you are likely choking the mid. Granted I haven't heard all speakers, but I haven't heard one yet that sounded good when it was sealed like that. Especially ones marketed for car audio use, because they are generally designed with infinite baffle application in the doors in mind. Sealing them is the opposite of what you probably want to do.

Agreed. Nuke it off the orbit. Off this universe I guess I didn't know a subwoofer is both resistive and reactive because he can wire it to 1, 2, or 4 ohms! Hey, at least we're getting new quality members. They're all experts! I can aplaude them for trying to apply their learning. But it stops there There comes a time when just making the effort isn't good enough anymore, you actually have to be good at it. I think that happens around 8th grade.

This is what ghost riding gets you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1O7ZvDFP_8 Ha, that was set up for sure.

Agreed. Nuke it off the orbit. Off this universe I guess I didn't know a subwoofer is both resistive and reactive because he can wire it to 1, 2, or 4 ohms!

It is so fun. Watching the big splash as they attack, never knowing when it'll happen then BAM. I hadn't gotten into it until this year.

I worked 14 hours on Monday as well. Outside in the 100* with basically no wind. It was a hot mofo. I drank like a gallon of gatorade, two waters, and a pop. Only the pop because the town I was in (Kirwin) is small as hell and doesn't even have a gas station, just bought it from a vending machine that just happened to be outside the place I was working.

What frequency is the highpass crossover for the mids set at?

That is from being dropped, most likely from the shipping company. It may have just been a tiny crack when you put it into the enclosure for the first time and unnoticeable, but the vibrations tend to promulgate such things. I can't really hear anything in the video. But since it only got worse when you put the sub back in, maybe the gasket didn't seal well to the box this time and you have an air leak.

I think you'll want to get a bigger, better amp to do the BTL justice if you go that route.

Perhaps if you used terms more specific than the completely broad and subjective "SQ" somebody could more precisely pinpoint the differences.

You're welcome, Mr. Sarcasm. Do you honestly expect somebody to help you less than an hour after you start the thread at midnight? Sheesh.

Seriously? If you draw more current than the fuses can handle, the fuses blow. They are there to protect the amp from drawing too much. That's their whole point of existence. ps- even if lightning struck that amp it couldnt put out 3500 watts. Not only that, but if it did you'd likely blow your 1000 watt-RMS BL sub.

"Loud and clear" is not what I meant by how good your interior speakers are. What is meant is how low they can play. Woofers in a component set sound much better at 80 hz than a sub does, so if you can get away with having your component play 80 hz, by all means do it. Same with 70 hz, 60 hz, etc. So set the lowpass of the sub at a place only to pick up where the interior speakers leave off in the lower midbass region.

I'm not sure why you trust winISD's FR graph, that is based on an anechoic chamber, which a vehicle certainly is not. I would contend that it's useful as a general guide, but definitely not with the specifics that your project puts forth.

Are you sure that the tuning frequency isn't increasing as you cut down on the port? But this is just more evidence that nothing in SPL always goes along with theories.

Get a 1/0 gauge wire kit. You can't really figure out box specs until you get the new car so that you'll know what will fit.

What head unit do you have? Do a search on here and you'll find discussions on active vs. passive.