Thumpper

I have always found that if I spend the money on a good quality product there is no need to equalize or process the shit out of it

I do not buy cheep components...they always sound like shit to me when I do the last ccomponents I had were the JBL 660gti"s at $1500 a pair and they were to date the best sounding components I have ever owned and they took 400w rms per channel for 5 years flawlessly...still in perfect shape in a buddies car so imo a good set of comps are worth the $$$ I might take a chance on these....last time I had to buy 2 sets of comps to get the double mid bass up front

I am trying to decide what to run on my front stage and I have been curious about these http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/schedaProdotto_en.asp?id=2&idcat=31&idprod=98&numid=1&numcat=2&numprod=4 has anyone here run these yet or have any experience with the Mille 's ??? I have been looking at this set for my front stage and wanted to see if people who got them in their installs are happy with their performance for the $$$$...comments good or bad

LOL

cool ........check your PM

go ahead....make shure you post the results

I originally came up with this design when I used to install systems in nightclubs and just for kicks I tried it in a car... not a very space efficient design but it's LOUD I really liked the sound of the black and white one... it unloaded really well in the interior of that car

well so much for the big debate........... was the amp clipping or was it HF dirt from the class D ........????

No not at all man. I made this post for two things. A, to prove the testament of the build quality of the driver. And the B, to hopefully have this tinsel lead issue addressed. I love this fucking sub man haha, and will always stand behind it. Awesome sub indeed. As for getting the tinsel lead issue addressed, about the only way to fix that, is to switch to an amp with better mosfet switching filtering. Try a JBL GTi 6000 or a pair of Rockford t4000. go for the JBL A6000gti if you can find one I had a JBL A3000gti amp........those things have the SICKEST woofer control over anything I have ever heard in car audio I would have kept mine but I just do not have the room for the amp and 4 batteries to run it anymore

I got side lined with a nasty case of Medullary Sponge Kidney 3 years ago I had a kidney infection that spread to my other internal organs not something I would like to repeat

I got a few PM's from people asking how I am doing since I came back doing fine now , I have 5 stints between the right kidney and the ureter and I have gained 50 pounds...back up over a healthy 200 it's actually weird to not feel sick anymore....I'm digging it just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit and I'll be starting back up with some projects for locals on my evenings and weekends just so everyone knows I have no interest in selling designs but I may ship an enclosure or two IF the customer takes care of all the shipping BS from their end...later in the year after I complete the local stuff I have lined up

that sub is a victim of full tilt abuse.... I see this happen ALOT..... it is usually caused by over exerting the sub due to simply exceeding the subs mechanical limits from heavy equalization or clipping the amp I have had braided leads get so hot that they have ignited the woofer cone and burnt a hole right thru it all operator caused...it's got nothing to do with the build quality of the sub

the way the damage has started it looks like the sub has been driven to it's mechanical limits..the braided lead looks like it was pulled tight and broke the epoxy around where the lead attaches to the former

unfortunately I have done that before you clipped the shit out of your amp

I like the way my system sounds when it is cold out but the -30*c stuff has costed me a few cone kits ,the surrounds froze and cracked all around the cone....LOL

Just sittin' here watching repeatedly I only watched it a few hundred dozens of times................................

Looks like the trunk of Barry Whites old car........ it was lined with white fuzzy

I had four 15" Xcons in my last install ...blurred my vision with ease

So anyways I traded my A3000gti amplifier for two Soundstream REF 2.640 two channel amps and a pair of the REF 1.500 mono blocks.... all I can say is I'm really impressed, the REF 2.640's are nothing short of amazing on the top end and the REF 1.500 are every bit as impressive on the bass love the damping on these things , everything sounds tight and un colored symbols , guitars , drums as well as lots of hidded instruments and vocals uncovered best part is there is absolutely NO noise floor....dead quiet they run on the warm side and they can really eat the juice ...I see a second alternator being installed soon I remember what my old school Reference Amps sounded like and I'm almost convinced these sound better.....I have been hearing musical detail over the last couple weeks that I have not heard in years ( same songs I have listened to since high school) in fact the last amps I have owned that impressed me this much with un colored tightness and detail were my old Harmon/Kardon CA 160 's

you know you have a car audio addiction when you dream about the effect high current servo's have on damping factor ................ .........and the next day your farts sound wayyyyy tighter.........

the HX2 series woofers from RF were awesome woofers I had a pair of 12" Power HX2 's in a Mazda Hatch back and I could damn near levitate the car on 15hz..... the FS of the 12" Power HX2 was around 27hz...... the Punch HX2 dropped decent as well

it"s worth getting the higher strand count....it is more flexible and easier to install some of the cheeper welding cable has a real cheep jacket on it that is easily damaged

I had fun with my dream sub amp already....the Crown A3000gti by far the sickest amp I have ever owned period but it required to many batteries and alternators to run not to mention it is the size of a spare tire... I liked the old school Harmon/Kardon Ca-260 amps I had back in the day...they were very nice sounding the new Soundstream Reference amps I have now are nothing short of amazing for tightness and detail...no noise floor what so ever

glad to be back I kinda miss this car audio thing , I'm hoping for some warm weather so I can strip the interior and do some sound deadening this is gonna be an SQ set up so I do not want a single rattle in or out of the car when it is finished as far as subs go I only have 500w rms for each sub which is not enough power for the Icons so me being a big fan of the smooth sounding copper coiled subs that dig low I narrowed it down to the 10" JL W7's ... they work very well on 500w rms and I can get them locally with out all the shipping/duty/exchange fee's

going any bigger than a 8" in the doors will sound very warm and lack any good mid range in the upper spectrum...you would need a 4" mid to fill the gap not even mentioning the fact that a large woofer in the door will require a $hAtLOAD of sound deadening to hide the sound of krinking body door panels personally I would go with a pair of 6 1/2" in each door....lots of out put and enough midbass to bounce your mirrors if installed corretly