hispls

Update. Picked up a new alternator and took my old one into a local shop that re-builds.... Sure enough old alt has a smoked diode in the rectifier and with the new one there isn't a hint of noise. Dunno if this'll help someone sometime but just throwing it out there. Having the old alt re-built so I have a backup when I smoke this one.

Statistically the Monday after "black Friday" is the biggest online shopping day of the year. If you guys can get any vendors to offer anything special it would do well to be extended through Monday.

Really you should be more concerned about how much space you have to work with. Buy subs that'll function the way they're intended in the space you have. I'd also suggest while you have a small sealed box, play around with aiming and placement of the box/woofer in the trunk and you'll probably find what sounds best and yeilds best output. I've built boxes with that just didn't word with the accoustics of the car and were outperformed by half size/half the number of drivers in a better position. The point is, don't paint yourself into a corner where you have sub(s) that can not be made to perform well in your trunk.

....... Not complaining as I know how swamped Stephen must be, still.....agonizing is a perfect description. I'll take solace that I'll have mine before the international guys, but probably not too quickly since I'm total opposite side of the country.

I promise you will NOT run out of X-max either way if your purpose is SPL (40-50hz range). You will be limited mostly by thermal power handling. If you run out of excursion you either need to use a subsonic filter or have a box with LOW tuning or variable tuning.

Dunno if anyone cares, but my initial 2 cents is that if anyone is on the fence about getting some LMS drivers I'd say go for it. These have more output at 30hz than my TC2K 15's. Crazy excursion and very nice sounding. Drawback would be large-ish box requirements for the size driver.

Just got my trunk repaired this week. Will attempt to get them in this weekend and post pics/review.

In the manual (in cm I believe). Did you get a chance to get my bolt shipped?

It is not a resistor that needed to be swapped out. It needs to be cut, and if you had to swap it out, it would be very difficult as it is a very small resistor. Steve can send you a .pdf file of which resistor to cut, should you chose to do so. Here is an explanation of the problem, (it is not really a problem at all or a design flaw), that I received from Steve yesterday. Dear Bill, I have heard this and there is a fix if the turn on "pop" is too loud. Most customers are happy due to the fact that when they turn the system/amplifier on there is always some music playing at that time. The system powers up at the last volume setting. Under this condition you are not able to hear any noise. Attached is a PDF with instructions on how to modify the Leviathan to be less sensitive to power up. The protection circuit was designed to prevent the amplifier from turning on if a high signal level was present. Interesting, actually a byproduct of a protection circuit. Getting my trunk repaired this week then new subs...fortunately I have enough going on to not be going crazy waiting.

Come on first wave! 2 digit serial number....get!

Indeed it was the pre-order stuff only. Hell if it were me, I'd just have him ship me the resistor and swap it out myself.

You forgot Lanzar in your poll (and a few others). Plenty more in the gallery here....will post more.

Picking up some 12" LMS 4K's (have one now, the other should be along this week). Just wondering I know they seem to use the same style motor/basket/surround and svc LMS 3 ohm coil. Looking for some input on real world application from someone who has done some testing in differnt alignment boxes with this style driver.

Paid

Will settle up tomorrow. Meanwhile someone rear-ended me and my trunk will not open. Gotta get this squared away by the time these amps ship.

Can't believe I pissed away money on other amps a month before these finally came out

When they start smelling funny it's time to back off! Metal cones can get pretty hot. Totally depends on the sub though. Depending on the glues and type/size of coil(s) used I immagine some can get really hot and not be in danger.

Way overkill. Please drop me a link/pics when you're done. I've re-built the trunk of my 01 camry a bunch of times and I find it's an accoustic nightmare....not to be Mr. Doom and Gloom but it's the worst car for accoustics I've ever owned.

I'd advise against it in that spot. Even if you had that chamber sealed off airtight, the metal is just NOT thick enough to handle much and it'll sound like ass. Best bet is to build a box to roughly fit, then if you like cut something to finish/fit over the top to make it appear that way. If you really really wanted to do any of those, you'd be into a few hundred bux worth of fiberglass to tighten and reinforce things. Very similar trunk to Lincoln Towncar (which I used to have). I did a similar thing with a LOT of fiberglass and wood, ended up doing bandpass ported through the rear deck. Was a HUGE project and worked fairly well. Not sure if I'd do it again if I had the same car though.

Possibly failed because of the paint on the cone? my 2K is taking a BEATING and JB weld is holding strong. (did you run a bead on both sides of the cone?)

So please MTV....pimp my ride!!!

2 kronos for low would be 2KW if you had 4 ohm loads. That's generally plenty for most folks. Don't forget the difference between 1KW, and 2kw, and 2kw and 4kw is ONLY 3db on a good day. Could probably gain as much by re-building your box more than likely.

I have a TC2K 15" that looked EXACTLY like this. Bottomed out hard off of turn-on pop from faulty head unit for the original dent, then this full rip happened a couple weeks later. Repaired mine with JB weld and it's been holding up to some massive power for nearly a year now (hint, inverted mounting and you won't even see this!). IMO 3 layers of glass won't be as light as a single bead of JB-weld along the tear, but let us know how it works out!

Then you aren't getting 3k out of that amp anyways, especially if you haven't supercharged your electrical. If you haven't and you set your gains to 3k I wouldn't expect the sub to live, but that would be the fault of the gain setting and not that the sub can't take 3kW. Not sure why you'd want to throw 3k at it anyways. Even if you set your gain at 2k your ears will NOT be able to tell the difference in output. It will be measurable, but not audible. What makes you say that amp won't put out 3k of clean power? I realize my electrical isn't the best in the world, but I've got more than enough alternator power, just need a little more on the battery side. Agreed that amp probably WON'T do 3KW. I highly doubt that real world you'll keep operating voltage high enough for that for more than a fraction of a second. AND the difference between 3KW and 2KW would likely only be barely noticeable without a meter. If you tune your box high (mid to high 30's) you will get a LOT more output in useable frequencies. Big boxes with Big ports are efficient. Basically your 2 types of failure are thermal and mechanical. Thermal will likely happen >40hz and mechanical < 40hz. Low tuned box or smaller sealed boxes will protect against mechanical failure, but small sealed is enefficient overall and low tuned is inefficient in the higher frequencies and you'll likely run more power to things (risking thermal failure). Of course you can protect against mechanical failure by using a subsonic filter if you tune high or use a large sealed box. SO my suggestion it tune high in a large box with as much port area as you can fit and use a subsonic filter to cut off the stuff below tuning. Personally I tune low for useful program material in movies and organ music, but in 98% of music you'll NEVER notice not having <30hz. A GOOD 18" sub on 2KW shoud be painfully loud in a good efficient box.