nick_19

10 volts... that's horrible. That'll kill your amps over time... Under 12 is even bad, let alone under 11. Get your voltage fixed before anything else.

See the flat black knob on the front right at the very bottom? It looks like it is in a curved groove. Well that thing allows you to angle the blade by loosening it and letting it slide through the groove to the top. It goes from 0 - 45 degrees. It is super easy and looks damn nice IMO. Not near a flared port, but better than just sanded or nothing at all. Makes the port look bigger to, not that this box needs any more port area!

I like the idea of 12's better. More cone area. Less power per sub (more efficient/less stress). And plus it just looks more badass ha!

Alright. Yeah the 1500D will be the best amp in that price range. Sorry, I did not know you were really trying to budget on this! In that case, I don't know if you know of this website, but they are very trustworthy, and are directly associated w/ Sundown. A great way to save some money and get a great amp! http://www.db-r.com/sell/store/index.php?categoryID=92

If you are going to be putting 400 to 450 watts to the SSD's, you should probably just put the copper coil on it. Someone already correctly said what it does. Lowers power handling a LITTLE bit, but it'll make it a little bit heavier and less likely to have a peaky response in a sealed box. The BP option changes the spider pack, adds a chamfered pole piece, and adds 6 cooling channels for the coil. It'll bump up your power handling a good bit, but up to 800 watts you won't need it! I do understand price is a factor. And those subs will sound excellent off of that power going to them! Oh and about Fi, you cannot go wrong w/ this company. Scott, the owner, is an amazing guy and you will get nothing but excellent, personal service from them. I've loved my experience w/ them!

What is the range you would LIKE to spend on just the amp? And I might not be completely correct on this, but I THINK bi-amping is where you have a component (not coax) set, and you will power the tweeters off of two channels (one ch. per tweet) and two channels on the mids.

As far as matching amps, you could just get a Sundown SAZ-3000... At 1.34 ohms and careful w/ the gains you should be fine. And if you worry, just get the BP option on the SSD's. That'd raise their RMS to at least 1000 or so.

It's all good. Any of the companies here will give you a great product and great service, but there is no reason to just pick a brand because you want to. Pick equipment AFTER goals. Forcing goals and equipment together will not work. But judging by bigjon's experience and many other's experience w/ the Nightshades, they seem to be a damn good sub. The BL's are great as well. I would say drop the cash for Havocs (or a Havoc) only if you want to get a little bit lower and have slightly more SQ. Good luck w/ your choice.

Lol. Sounds like you've got this under control. My only recommendation would be to get a bigger amp... I know you don't NEED to give subs their RMS by any means, but 1500 will only give them a lil over half a piece. As far as running the speakers off of the H/U, I wouldn't do it, but you could. Would kind of be pointless in a sense to buy a nice set of coax only to run them off of the H/U. You could definitely do it and be satisfied though! Good luck.

I'd say 2 15" BL's or Nightshades... The RL-p does NOT sound like what he wants. If you can't fit two 15's, use one 18. The BL and Nightshade will get loud as chit and retain pretty good quality from what I've heard. I just don't think your friend is looking for much SQ, so there is no reason to go w/ a SQ sub. The Havoc would also be a good option to look into. edit: I am NOT trying to diss SoundSplinter or the RL-p in anyway. I'm just saying that it doesn't seem like the sub that fit the mentality of "a few of whatever goes real loud."

That is for the Havoc. Not the Chaos.

This is a prototype of the xCON. The first prototype. These subs didn't make it through our rigorous testing. The xCON prototpe that did make it however is this one. Ahhh. That makes sense.

Lol. I bet it wouldn't matter if one could hear 20 Hz at 150 dB... It'd be so incredible anyway. Ha.

Can I do that w/ a TL? It's a pretty new one. I don't have a lot of tools, but I have got plenty of boxes and both subs available for use and I can most likely find any equipment I need from a friend.

DO IT!!! I cant even imagine what that sounds like! I doubt anyone can imagine considering you can't hear 20 htz

There is no pic of the sub on the first page :'( This looks good. Any like... updates on whatever line this is?

One has a triple stacked magnet and a good bit more motor strength than the other with a double stacked motor. One has triple spiders, one has double (unless BP is added). One's moving mass is larger than the others. They are definitely different subs. They have the same basket, but they are very different subs... And they do not sound the same. When I get home (Christmas) I will do a huge review w/ vids and TL scores comparing these subs... I've got both readily available.

If it is 4.4 after sub disp and NOT port disp - you will have right under 33 htz If 4.4 includes port disp - right around 32

The Havoc is the only choice I'd as much as consider out of those options you presented. (I love mine.)

Can someone make that picture about 1/325345435 the size it is now?

1. Depends on your amp. 2. ^^^ 3. Running one coil = dead subwoofer Running two coils = bass!

I have my sub in my trunk w/ the sub facing up and the port in the rear of the box facing to the side of the trunk (driver's side). Trevor (Thumpper from Pound That Sound) said that this positioning generally tends to be mic friendly and lower the peak frequency in vehicle a little bit. the port is firing towards the left in this pic.

Looks sick man!

You need this. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp Whatever the "final" load AT THE AMP is (ohm load) is the power rating you will use. I'd get this amp: http://www.sundownaudio.com/1200d.html Great guy to buy from and an AMAZING PRODUCT. Then get two Dual 4 ohm subs and wire them like this: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woof...mp;woofer_imp=4 to achieve a 1 ohm load at the amp, giving you a total of 1200 watts, or 600 watts to each sub.