ChadS13TDI

update: some new pics....The box isn't complete yet I still need to add the flush mount and cut both holes. Also needs to be carpeted. I stuck it in to get an idea of how big it is. It's big. If I were to do it again I'd probably go sealed maybe 2 sealed but we will see I still havn't heard it. I hope it rocks my socks off because it was a pita so far. damplifier complete by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr damplifier left by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr rear deck by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr box internal by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr box in car by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr battery location by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr

Yikes that's a long time. I ordered mine beginning of may. Really hoping things are speeding up.

Building the box Sunday.

Yah not going under the car. This is my plan. Is it safer to go with say a 250amp fuse on both ends near the battery? Also my other question was should I use a fuse on the line from the rear battery to the fused distribution block?

Ok so I'm staring to piece together and figure out what I need for my electrical pieces.. I will have a second battery in the rear. running two amps. Sub amp -T1500-1bdCP Front Stage amp is undecided at the moment. I have 1/0 Gauge OFC running to the back. probably ~15ft run. My plan is. Battery up front + (in line fuse)>>>>> (inline fuse) Battery Rear Positive + Ground up front will be left alone. Ground in the rear will be placed in the factory installed Ground fused to the body in the trunk. For the amps.... Running from rear battery ----- Short zero gauge OFC to a fused distribution block >>>>From the fused distro 4 gauge wires to each of the two amps. Grounds from the amps will run back to the ground in the trunk. What do you guys think first of all? Sorry it might be a little hard to understand... My main Questions are What size AMP should I run between the two batteries? 300AMP? Can I go smaller or do the two batteries draw bigger loads between themselves? Second question....should I put an in line fuse on the 1-2ft piece between the rear battery and the Fused Distribution block? thank you!

Alright I'm convinced...

I will have to work on that.

I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean without the door panel on? There is another guy on here that did a passat install. I might be able to sneak some pics from his thread.

I'm waiting on delivery of an xcon 12" going In a ported box tuned to 33hz.

I just want something that sounds good. A good mix of everything. I want it to slam and I want the front speakers to,be able to keep up. Which incriminators are they?

Haha not even in a suburban ok...that made me laugh Well I know what some of that stuff is and I'd prefer to keep it somewhat easy to install. I am definately deadening the doors. Not sure about a baffle. Not sure what it is. Location and aiming are foreign to me as we'll. I'm here to learn though.

I'm planning to do the install myself. What do you mean focus the whole budget on the fronts and the install? How much extra cost is there? and really not have any rears? this is a sedan and I will have people in the back seats from time to time? Most people will recommend only running a nice front stage with no rears, I would be one of them. Music is recorded in stereo, not RFront/LFront RRear/LRear.How will that affect the sound overall in the cabin? Will the people sitting in back be drowned out by the sub? Sorry I've just never heard a stereo setup this way? Also I'm assuming you would direct me to some of the nicer component speakers? Will they work with the external crossovers on my stock deck? Thanks for your help.

I'm planning to do the install myself. What do you mean focus the whole budget on the fronts and the install? How much extra cost is there? and really not have any rears? this is a sedan and I will have people in the back seats from time to time?

Front dash Tweeters Dash Tweeters by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr Front 6.5" Front speaker by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr Rear 6.5" Below and Tweeter up top. Rear Doors by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr

Hi Guys I'm also planning to do the door speakers (With an Amplifier) in my car and I have never done this I've always only added a sub. So I may have a lot of questions and I'm looking for some direction. This will be hooked up to factory Head unit Via LC6i (unless directed otherwise.) My car has 8 total speakers. Front door has 6.5" speakers and then tweeters in the dash. Rear doors have a 6.5" at the bottom and then a tweeter next to the door handle. I have added pics below for reference. I have no idea what the depth would be or if spacers would or could be used? Not sure how to find that out. Now I don't want to go crazy but I'm willing to flex my budget if it makes sense. I would like to set my budget about $2-$400 for just the speakers. I presume I should figure out what speakers before selecting AMP. I'm also not sure how much power I should need/want? I would like to retain the tweeters in the dash and upgrade them if I can figure out how to do that. Would a component set work in this case? There would be a fairly large distance between the door speaker and the tweeter? Worse case and I can't figure it out I would plan to disable them and just run the front door. The rear speakers I'm looking for input. I have a love hate relationship with that tweeter by the door handle. It ends up being nearly ear level for the front passengers so you get some nice highs but at times it's a bit much and I'm wondering if I get an amplified setup if it will be just to much. So I'm leaning towards just leaving the tweeter with the 6.5" in the bottom of the door. What do you guys think? now do I run all new wires? tap into existing wires (no idea how to do that) What's best? If at all possible I would like to be able to restore the car to a factory setup but it's not necessary as I do plan to keep this car for the longhaul. For those that may not know I will be pairing this up with my 12" XCON when it arrives. I listen to all types of music but an emphasis on dubstep, electronic, house music. Thanks for all the help in advance! Pics in the next post.

#6406 #6373 #6356

Got about halfway done with the trunk. Need more Damplifier Pro. HALF by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr TRUNK2 by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr HALF2 by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr

I am going to be installing a factory batter in the trunk. I have three choices for Tray's. I'm not really sure what the difference is or which one I should get. I'm assuming more Amp hours is better. After looking at this stuff I'm actually thinking It might come with a battery? may not be size related. I need some direction. 61 AMP HOUR $40.46 95 AMP HOUR $38.76 72 AMP HOUR $38.76

Well today I got the power wire ran and did a tiny bit of sound dampening under the rear seat while I had it out. Man what a PITA running this wire was. It's tough when you have no directions lol :laugh: Mess by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr Rear seat out. surprisingly easy... chair by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr After some Damplifier pro. bench done by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr After some digging I found the entry point..... battery by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr Nearly there... Success by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr Finished.... success2 by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr Glad this part is over with:banghead::laugh:

How did you get through the firewall?

Thanks. The car has been great so far and just looking forward to an awesome system for my long a$$ commutes. Have lots of plans for it besides stereo. hoping to drop it and throw on some 20"s at some point....one step at a time though!

Yeah I didn't look that close earlier.....kind of looks like it pooled there. not sure if their grease gun went crazy when hitting the shock in the trunk or what? I am going to get back in there to run the power wire tomorrow and I will look at it closer. I'm not to concerned. Here are a few exterior pics. nothing to great. need to take some better ones. passat3 by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr 7falls by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr

Here are some initial pics. I got all of the trunk liner out. Ready to get started with the Damplifier Pro. BEFORE: DSC01695 by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr AFTER: DSC01700 by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr OEM BATTERY LOCATION WITH BUILT IN GROUND IN TRUNK FOR V6 MODELS. I PLAN TO ADD A SECOND BATTERY HERE WITH AN OEM FINISH. BONUS OF HAVING A NON V6 MODEL. (NOT SURE WHAT THE ORANGE STUFF IS.) OEM BATTERY LOCATION by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr STOCK DAMPENER DSC01701 by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr THIS IS BEHIND THE FOAM STUFF. NOT SURE IF IT'S MORE HARDCORE DAMPENING OR WHAT. I PLAN TO REUSE ALL FOAM ON TOP OF THE DAMPLIFIER. STOCK DEADNING? by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr PIC WITH A DAMPLIFIER PRO SHEET. DAMPLIFIER PRO by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr

Hello, Figured I would start a thread in here as I plan to log my install progress and plans. It's going to be a long slow process but I'm hoping to have the first part completed by the first or second week of June. What I have planned so far. SUB: 12" XCON Ported. AMP: RF t1500-1bdcp (running at 4ohms for now) Lc6i Damplifier Pro Trunk Kit. (plans to do the whole car over time) Stock Electricals... Future plans: More Damplifier Door Speakers all around Powered (not sure what I want yet) Possibly a second battery in the trunk (I have the ability to install an OEM fit and finish battery in the trunk.) Loooooong term plans: New Headunit. This weekend I will start laying down the Damplifier. I'm currently awaiting delivery of my XCON. so my project is pretty much snailed until that shows up. I will get some pictures up this weekend once I get the Damplifier and power wire ran. Thanks for checkin it out!

Yeah I noticed that people run them at the lower wattage. I guess my concern is I just want to have more than needed and I can always turn it down I don't want to damage my electrical system so I'm willing to do whatever it takes (within reason). It's seeming like running a second battery should be pretty easy given that my car has a factory spot for a battery in the trunk. I would plan to run the power from the battery in the engine bay to the rear battery and then ground it in the trunk. then power the amp off the battery in the trunk. Question is what battery would I need/reccomended. can they be had for under $200? Regarding the Big 3 upgrade. I have seen people ADD the zero gauge to existing setup and some remove? which is the correct way, or does it matter? seems easier possibly to just add to existing but not sure? The Vehicle is a VW Passat TDI. Can you explain the efficiency piece for the AMP? I have read this somewhere but my Buddy seems to think it makes no difference what OHM you run the amp at. but I have seen efficiencys go from say 86 at 4 or 2 ohm and then 1ohm it's in the 70% range. What does this mean in layman terms? Next question is I'm pretty sure the XCON only comes in dual 1ohm or Dual 2ohm voice coils. Which one would I get for a 4ohm application? If I wanted more power could I rewire the same sub for 1 or 2ohms? I am really leaning towards just adding the second battery for what it's worth though. Sounds good on the box tuning, looking foward to hearing what you come up with. Thanks again for all the help!!!! kinetic hc600 and high strand count (ofc wire) 4ga should do the trick. I love my kinetic, you don't need an isolator, my car NEVER dies and I can bump it when the cars off at full volume for a good 45 minutes at least( 1000w mono and 320w 4channel). If you could go bigger i would too, they work wonders (solid 14.4volts at both amps). Nice that looks pretty stout. I really don't know what I'm looking at when it comes to batteries but I was those Kinetic's seem to get great reviews. I think I'm going to run my sub at 4ohm's first. Planning to get the RF t1500cdbp (pretty sure I'm butchering that model #) Pushes 1000rms, birth sheets are coming in near 1200rms. I will evaluate and see if I need a second battery or possibly just upgrade the original battery.