lithium

thanks ill see what we end up doin. thanks for the advice

would you guys recommend- 1. running power from battery to the cdplayer instead of using the factory harness? 2. grounding to the fire wall or use the factory harness? deck is the clarion mentioned in my build log (the cheap one that can do active)

by spl i just ment if there would be any NOTICEABLE gain in loudness with a larger port area vs the recommended? also, would a flared port have any advantage over a regular round pvc port w/o flare?

im going to try as hard as i can to get my friend to go with the dcon over the type R he's got on his mind.

would you notice a increase in spl if he went with a 4 inch port or bigger (tuned to the same fs). the manual for the type r states a 3.75 inch port is recommend. is the idea behind the flare port that you can go smaller on the diameter and keep port noise down?

my friend is getting a 10" type R (powering it with a kicker 400.1). he's trying to keep the box as small as he can so i was thinking about using a flare tube port for the box. what diameter should we be looking at? any suggestion? (sub isnt purchased yet. but i havent seen anything better for 100 bucks shipped) edit: damn i think i put this is wrong section... please move if it is

i like to make a ghetto compass out of a piece of wood and a screw. screw the stick in the middle of box(dont screw it to tight or you wont be able to spin the stick around to make the circle). then drill a hole on the stick at the radius of the circle. stick a pencil in the hole and spin it.

ill get some pics up of the equipment i also have afew questions -- would you guys recommend running power from battery to the cdplayer instead of using the factory harness? should i do a ground to the fire wall or use the factory harness?

im glad i didnt give up and take it to a garage

turned out the battery i bought had a dead cell. explains why it didnt hold a charge at all.

haha it was free so i think it will stay. i havent tried setting the alarm over night yet but i do believe i was originally sold a defective battery and the replacement is holding a charge just fine. my raammat and cd player should be here today but i wont be home for afew hours. this weekend i think ill make some new baffles for the doors. the ones i have now are alittle too ghetto...

apparently the battery walmart sold me had a dead cell. not sure if that was before or after it being installed in the car. got another under warranty and it seem to be holding a charge. i hope that was the problem i was having.

whatever problem with the new head unit during shipping seems to have been taken care of. do to arrive monday along with my roll or raammat. ill post more pics to hold you guys over till i start the build. lol

you guys are all a bunch a picture whores... lol i kid. but i will get some more up. my car is having some charging system problems so ill be alittle busy with that for the next few days.

Any amp can do active. The SAX-100.4D simply has crossovers on board making it so you don't have to run an external unit. ya thats what i ment. my bad

im trying some raammat out in my doors and some other spots depending how much i have left. ill start installing just after xmas. it was about 140 shipped to central PA. i have dynamat extreme in the trunk but that cost me the same amount for half the square feet... always hear good things about second skin audio as well.

sundown amps can do active.

random pics of things not installed yet

guess ill start this log in case i run into problems or question. comments are welcome. equipment is already baught and on the way. front stage- pg rsd 6.5s component set. going to run it active till funds allow upgrade. also have a set of polk tweets i may try for fun. sub- AA arsenal 12" currently in a 2.2 net tuned to ~30hz. also have a sealed box laying around. i may eventually have one of fisher's hybrid horns boxes designed up for me to try out. goal is budget. i wont call this sq because it definitely isn't. its how i want it to hear. front stage amps- kicker kx250.2 on mids and kicker zx100.2 on tweets sub amp- kenwood excelon kac x10d in the mail- (these items are my xmas present from my parents to myself... haha so no install till after the fat man comes) i think i did ok with 400 bucks to spend.... krukonceptz-(showed up today) ground distro (sold out of fused distro so ill just use my walmart pos for now) 3 pair of 2 channel klarity cables (the cheap ones) 8 gauge blue and white (12' of each, because i may move my amp rack...) ~~~~this is the Al and Cu (KLMX) stuff that ive heard some people complain about. ill see how it works for me. ---------------- Clarion DXZ785USB for the hu. got it for 225 shipped- (showing an exception on the tracking info- hope to find more out later) ---------------- roll of raammat coming monday. (getting some closed cell foam for my bday in January. i hope)

good luck with your bids.

haha sorry to hear that. i get alittle annoyed with the ppl who buy like 8 of the 10 amps they have in a bid. im still alittle pissed that i didnt try to get one of the 31 zx350.4s they had for sale at once... they sold for under 40... i think one dude baught like 20 of them and probably made some big cash on ebay the next week.

ubid.com has some kicker stuff. i dont think you can beat that rf amp... but you can walk away with a 750.1 or 1000.1 for pretty cheap. damn that rf amp is nuts!

from what ive read on the bl and btl. go with the bl with your power at around 1500rms its a pretty good match. id wait for someone with more experience to chime in as i have never used or heard fi subs. and they could also suggest the options you would need as im sure you may have questions on them.

inverting does nothing to sq. i experienced some motor noise but it was not audible in the front of the car. things u would take into account is there is no need to factor the sub's displacement into the box volume. also, you may find it better to reverse the polarity aswell. good luck with the build. i like my AA arsenal inverted for short time i used the sealed box before building the new ported enclosure.

add some bracing to the box. another baffle maybe