lithium

there is only one side, the customers. jacob's shitty response is over on diyma if you need to see it for yourself.

I still say model them up and compare a few options

I am sure the OP can correct me if I am wrong- but I think trunk/rear deck in GTO is limited by the placement of the gas tank. They moved it to behind the rear seat to meet our crash standards. Edit found this pic... There does appear to be room to work with...These are 8's...I'd thin you cound make 10's work. Though the Quarter panels boxes are more common. ya that wont work..

I'm trying to stay away from shallow mount. Another option I've found is the Dayton HO at 5" depth. It's happy in .7 cu ft. IB off the rear deck is possible, but not with much output. There's room for shallow 8's, which isn't enough cone area for me. http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-4-10-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-462 that dayton? maybe you ment the 8"? 5.37" depth and has a pole vent. maybe with some fiberglass work you could make it work. the only point in favor of the shallow mount is that you could go with a 12" so you might not loose much displacement. try modeling them. what about pairs of 8s for each side? dayton ho 8, jbl gto804, shit like that?

if the sub has a pole vent than you would need something with even less depth. maybe shallow mounts are in order. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27183_Alpine-SWR-T12.html cant do ib off the rear deck?

why not install the system in the car you're actually going to drive.

model them

yep something like that. i run mine on about that much. more than enough power to rattle your doors to pieces.

the android rooting and flashing business confused me a bit but I ended up installing usb rom.

iirc, they are not designed for sealed enclosures. sell it and buy something else. a 10 or 12 in a sealed box will take up less space than that 8 in a ported enclosure.

i think you can set it up to turn the screen off (and maybe go into some kind of sleep mode) when it isn't charging. My n7 isn't installed yet but it will hold a charge for quite a long time with the screen off. leaving wifi, gps, and/or blutooth will shorten that time a bit.

ppi p1000.1. wouldn't notice the difference in power. or buy something used.

That's gear whine you hear from straight cut gears. ya but there seemed to be some extra rattling as well. the discussion section noted the car did not finish the race

probably nothing wrong with your current sub. install is jacked.

thanks guys. deadening pics: I had tons of cdl tiles remaining so i went a little overboard. Then again, the sls 8's are some pretty serious drivers. As you can see, i focused on the flat portions of the panel. The outer door skin got ~50% coverage with tiles. I popped the grill off the factory trim panel. The factory 5.25" speaker will be replaced by peerless sls 8's. I removed the factory speaker and lowered the window down to measure mounting depth. The sls8's need 4.4" mounting depth, cutting the trim panel will be necessary. Here's an idea of how much of the trim panel i will need to cut.

why the grill cloth looks like totally different colors in the pictures must be my camera. actually it looks almost purple in person. I might order some better quality cloth later.

updates. false wall and floor are done for the most part. Going to try some carpet dye to lighten up the carpet later. I wanted to make the sub vented properly into the trunk so i created the oval hole. Came together well enough I think. I used a chamfer bit on the router around the edge of the hole and used a rabbiting bit recess around all the edges. the grill cloth is just stapled on. These are the mounts for the false wall. (red dots) Finally ready to move on to the front stage and tablet install.

double post

using a bandpass enclosure to direct the sound through the rear deck or rear seat makes sense. but it wont sound any better/different than a vented enclosure.

01 santa fe, i know since its a SUV Subs up, port back will 9/10 times work the best. i had a blazer before and tried it firing back and the sub up port back was quite a bit louder. Also i have done probably 4 different single 18 builds lol and wanted to try something different. I have done 2 15s 1 time in a suv and i was kind of upset over it lol, wasnt what i thought but the enclosure was pre-built for other subs and in no way up to par either. i mean yea i metered/burped a 147.9 or 148 but my single 18" hdc3 was just as loud on music(147.6 30sec-music ave) and on like a quater of the power(like 800watts tops). I couldnt understand it, i was impatient and sold both 15s lol and went back to a single 18. So i figure i would try again, but build this box from ground up. all comes down to the box and install.

im not familiar with FI, subs are nice but have no exp with them. I though the FI q was more od a SQ sub you would want to look at he ssd or bl

so you're looking for a pair of 15s? Thoughts on a single, higher end 18"? and actually listing a budget and box size limitations would help so we dont have to guess.

lots of ways to seal the holes, making fiberglass covers is pretty common. Making a baffle require wood, a jig saw, and something to water proof the wood. First you need to take the door panels off and measure if it will fit. The stock speakers in my previous car were 5.25 but i managed to fit 8" midbass drivers behind the panel. So the stock size doesn't necessarily restrict you.

Icon would work. Gcon would work if you cut back the power. check the forum for used gear.