manbeer

I don't even now what to say. Holy chit

^signature material right there

That is SO nice! I wish i could hear one of the flared port boxes in person, or that i had room for something like that

Ughh....i just got my car back from the stealer today and went straight to a friends house and worked on cars for 8 hours. I'm tired and grumpy, and i am starting to realize that i'm tired and grumpy like 90% of the time. I'm just rarely ever in a good mood these days. On top of that, i turn 25 in a few weeks and i am starting to realize that i'm getting older, and have accomplished much less at this point then i had hoped to. It's tough to tell whether it was underacheivement or overly ambitious goals. Anyway i guess i'm just ranting cause i am a little frustrated, and sometimes it's comes out easier when talking to people that you don't personally know

I've been really happy with all the Power series amp offerings. With the reasonably priced refurbs floating around they are probably some of the best bang for the buck amps you will find. The subs aren't BAD, but definitely not worth the money. Still better than a lot of the commercial offerings though.

congratulations, you just scored yourself a few hundred dollars worth of plexi for free!

very good deal

And all the infiniti/nissan guys do is talk about "japanese reliability" and how german cars have "electrical problems" Well, i'd rather have a window that doesn't roll down or a seat that doesn't heat up than a car that doesn't get me where i need to go! I think japanese cars are good if you drive like a grandma, 10k miles a year, and never go above 4k rpm. If you like to drive hard, they don't hold up too well...the german cars LOVE to be pushed hard.

They get very loud in medium sized ported enclosure of a moderate amount of power. Sound is decent for what it is, they don't seem to dig real, real low but that could also be a result of the setup i heard. If you're primary goal is a loud daily system, they are a pretty good choice

Thanks, unfortunately i think my car is the biggest piece of garbage. It rides like crap, handles like crap, squeaks and rattles like a hooptie and is always breaking down. In fact, i can not give you measurements because it is at the dealer right now, after breaking down on me AGAIN. all it is good for is looking nice standing still. i will avoid nissan products like a case of gonorrhea from now on. Do yourself a favor and go german. 3 series handle better but still absorb the bumps better, are made better and of better materials, and hold up to hard driving better. I will be going BMW or Porsche next...and this is coming from a moderator on a G35 board

You guys should see what i deal with on a day to day basis being a mod on the G35 forums...now that they have fallen into the price range where "certain" people can afford them If i see one more "what size spacer to fit G37 wheels on a G35" thread i swear i might shoot myself. You thing the sub vs sub threads are bad, this is simple math...X offset - Y offset = the spacer you need. duh

If it means anything, the DCON 12 beats my T2 10, on 1/4 the power

I think he is referring to the T3002 from those specs. If thats the case, and he is running it at 1 ohm or 2 ohm bridged, it'll be more like 800 class AB watts. That being said, i did the same amp in 2 ohm bridged for a customer with another G35, 4 gauge wiring, stock everything, no big three...voltage fell to 12.9ish. G35 has 110 amp alternator You should be fine, if anything spend the money on some 0 gauge and ring terminals and do the big 3

is that...MONNNNNNNNNSTER cable?

That doesn't seem to be much port area... it's like 50 square inches on a box thats probably (or should be) 5-6 cubes or more. I would go at least 80 square inches.

That trunk went yesterday, i have something new in store for when the dealer fixes my car. Final specs 1.9 cubes after woofer/port displacement, 30hz, 36.5 square inches of port area

sweet! gonna get it on the TL?

I'm excited, now i can't wait to get the car back. Hopefully it's something simple they can fix tomorrow or i can at least get a loaner. it's funny how i made a complete 180 since first signing up here almost a year ago. at first i was trying to figure out how i could get the most bass and maximize the amount of volume in the given space. I was looking at 2 12" or 3 10" icons and an SAZ-1500 or 3k even to run them. The components were less important to me so i figured i would get a set of focal K2p or something popular and well regarded and be done with it Now, i love the idea of a lower powered substage, everyone got me sold on going active, and i just want to pile on the power up front for the extra headroom. I find it ironic that initially i was going for 1500+ watts to the subs and maybe 300-400 up front, now i'm going for 1500 watts up front and 4 or 500 to the single DCON, which i am more than happy with

1st teaser photo. Car broke down yesterday and is at the dealer. I just removed the sub from the sealed box when it was being towed and will be working on a ported box this week

Go for a D1, series wired for 2 ohm load. should be nice, let me know how you like the amp...i am a huge fan of old SS but too much of a sissy to take the plunge on the new ones until i see some results

Dual means that there are 2 voice coils. A dual 1 ohm driver can either be wired in series for a 2 ohm final load, or in parallel for a .5 ohm final load. Similarly, a dual 2 ohm driver can either be wired in series for a 4 ohm load or in parallel for a 1 ohm load. You can also run just one voice coil, with the expense of losing 50% of the power handling capability Selecting the proper VC configuration really depends on what amp you want to run the sub with. Are you saying that the amp you are looking at makes 500 RMS at a 1 OR 2 ohm load? In that case, go with a D1 and series wire it, since the amp will likely put less of a strain on the electrical system at higher impedances. What amp is it that you are considering?

'00 SE. it was on its 3rd tranny within 2 years/40k miles

Ordering today. I will also order the SLS and seas neos today. The car broke down again last night so its at the dealer, then after it leaves there it will be going into the body shop in about 2 weeks. When i get it back i'll be adding deadener. I have 36sq ft alloted for the doors to start with and will be picking up some clay.

My temp. tweeter solution will be seas neo textiles, everything will be upgraded at the end of the season when i have the time to switch things up a little. Those should be fine to cross at 2500hz, 18db/oct right? i will be using 18db/octave slopes all around to start cause they are the easiest to do with the 4XS So i am thinking initial x-overs will be 40-250 on the SLS, 250-2500on the RS100's and 2500+ on the neos. That sound like a good starting point?

Well the RS100's would end up being under 50 dollars a pair, the specs look good, and since i order from parts express at least twice a month they probably wouldn't add more than a couple bucks to the shipping. How about going with them? They are cheap enough where i don't really care too much, should have no problem crossing over low enough for the SLS's (i am thinking of doing 250hz 3rd order as the low pass on them to start) plus they have the phase plug which (i may have been misguided on this) i was always under the impression helped with off axis response http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=295-378