SilkySmoove

Great write up man. This seems to put into perspective all of the varying view points I have been seeing across the net in regards to adding an additional battery vs getting a HO alternator. In my case I have slight head light dimming running about 1300W rms. I currently have a duralast gold under the hood and a Kenetik HC600 in the rear. Would you suggest upgrading my starting batt or simply place say a HC1400 in the rear instead of the HC600???? This is all in a 2008 Altima 3.5SE with a stock "130A" alternator.

Nice and smooth looking like the Havoc.........can't get much better than that!!!! Looks like it might be time for a new build this summer lol

Thanks for the replies. And I know exactly what you mean by the "amp running out of gas", the point of diminishing returns where turning up the gain yields little to no additional output.

Quick gain setting question. I am running the 1000D on a AA Havoc, which is a 1200W rms driver, at 1ohm. When I set the gain using the DMM method to attain an output of 1000W with at an ideal 1ohm load the VAC reading should be about 31.6. However, at this level the output of the driver does not seem to be anywhere near it's full potential. When I actually measured the impedance of the sub wired at "1ohm" it was in the 1.2-1.4ohm range. So my question is should I use sqrt(1000*1.4)= 37.4VAC instead of sqrt(1000*1)=31.6VAC when setting the gain? Also, how do you normally factor in the bass boost, LPF, and sub-sonic filter settings when setting the gain? Thanks!!!!

Thanks for the continued input guys. However, my priorities have shifted a little so I have decided just to do a single RE SE 12" since this setup is going in my old car, which I don't drive much. I also figured that I should work on my front stage and mid bass to have a more well rounded system. Once again MUCH THANKS!!!!

Thanks once again. Now I have to see about getting one built for this Havoc by Mr. Fisher!!!!

I don't think that Havoc's come in 10's.

Thanks for the quick reply. So there is no audible performance difference between the two if built properly?

I am just curious to know what the difference between flared and standard slot ported boxes. Obviously outside of appearance is there any performance difference???? I am looking for a nice ported enclosure for my 12" AA Havoc.

What about Audiopulse Epic 12's???? And does anyone know who sales them????

ROFL I'm not a fan of that guy, he just butchers good subs Cool, cool..........now I know to steer clear. Preicate that lol.

Ok, don't roast me too bad guys. But what do you think about these subs I cam across on ebay? The parts used in the construction of them seem to come from fairly reputable companies. Robot Underground

I had been trying to do some research on the DCON but not too many people seem to have posted any reviews on it. I guess the lack of reviews is due to it being fairly new. How well do they hang on the low end????

Icons are 1000W rms subs, I believe, so I would not be getting full performance out of them feeding them roughly half there rms. I was thinking something in the 500-700W rms range each. So what if you feed them half of what they're rated at. Too many people are too concerned with numbers....My Icon is only going to get about 450 watts when I put it in. Absolutely correct, I am concerned with numbers........the numbers in my wallet. I am not looking to spend over $500 for a pair of subs in this setup. If I was looking for a single sub the Icon would be a prime contender.

Icons are 1000W rms subs, I believe, so I would not be getting full performance out of them feeding them roughly half there rms. I was thinking something in the 500-700W rms range each.

Budget wise I would love to keep it under $350 for a pair, but I am willing to spend a little more if the difference in quality warrants it. Space wise it will be going in the trunk of a '93 Altima, and I have not decided on sealed or ported so I don't really know at the moment. And YES, I am keeping the Havoc lol......no need to get rid of that sexy beast.

Whats up guys. I am currently in the market for two solid SQ 12's to run off of the SAE-1200D I have on the way. This will be going in another vehicle of mines. I have never done a dual 12 setup so I figured it was about time to try it out. I am currently running a AA Havoc 12" on a SAE-1000D in my daily driver, so I am looking for something similar that will get LOW and maintain SQ. Thanks in advance for the forthcoming input!!!!

Does the fuse on the alternator to batt+ go closer to the alternator or battery? Also, what size fuse should be used? Thanks.

Any dimming at all with that SAZ-1500D???? I am thinking about stepping up from the SAE-1000D, or maybe to the SAE-1200D. What is your current electrical setup?

Thanks guys for the quick and useful feedback. Any recommendations on best brands for flexible 100% OFC wire????

Thats what I was thinking. Any other input?

I purchased about 15ft of Kicker Hyperflex 0 gauge to do the BIG 3 and the wire was MUCH bigger than expected. I had never dealt with 0 gague wire up until this point. I attempted the install with the wire but had difficulty due to its large size a tightness of my engine bay in addition to the awkward location of my alternator ('08 Altima 3.5SE). So I was just curious to know if using 4 gauge or 2 gauge wire would be sufficient since it will still be at least twice the size of stock? It will be 100% OFC, none of that aluminum clad stuff. Background info on my system is a Sundown SAE-1000D powering a 12" Havoc and a 4-channel Kenwood eXcelon powering my Ininity Kappa components. I experience slight headlight dimming at high volume. I have a Duralast Gold under the hood, which was the biggest batt I could get due to the opposite placement of the Altima's batt terminals. And I also have a Kinetik HC600 in the rear. My current power and ground wire is 2 gaguge Rockford Fosgate. Thanks

By the way the stock alternator is 130A.

No, I have not done the Big 3. The car is fairly new, 2008, and I am not to keen on doing anything invasive if it can be avoided. And as for the second battery placing additional strain on the alternator, the Kinetik batteries have very low ESR's which places a very minimal load on the charging system compared to regular wet cell 12V batteries. Also, as stated before the dimming condition has neither improved OR gotten worse with the addition of the power cell. Anyone who has experience with Kinetik power cells please chime in.

Hello all, I have a Sundown SAE-1000D powering a 12" AA Havoc and a 4-channel Kenwood eXcelon powering my mids and highs. With this setup I was having a little headlight dimming at high volumes. Now even after adding the Kinetik HC600 in the trunk I still have the same dimming problem; no better or worse. I am pretty sure I have it wired properly with the 2-gauge run from the battery fused at the battery running to another fuse within 18" of the HC600 then from there to the distro block. Both fuses are 150A ANL's. The only wiring difference I have from the suggested wiring in the manual is that I have it grounded to the chassis in the back as opposed to having a ground run all the way from the negative terminal of the battery. Why isn't the HC600 taking care of the little dimming I am having???? Any insight on this issue would be more than appreciated. This is all in a 2008 Altima 3.5SE with a Duralast Gold under the hood and 2-gauge fosgate power wire. The little headlight dimming does not bother me too much per say, but I was just trying to correct it so my light dimming does not affect others while I am bumping down the road at night.