Punkeyboozter

signed in for free stuff... I accept paypal as well.. thx in advanse

wow i somehow managed to miss your reply for so long hehe.. i came to the same conclusion besided the eclipse is butt ugly but is way more advanced i believe. BTW ohio gem agreed to build be a alt but it wont be cheap + need to ship them a OEM from the other side of the world. ...damn but i suppose that is the things we do for bass.. thx for ur advice again

Working on that for you! while you at it... dont 4get your only supporter in Singapore (how I wish!!)

What i cant hear you

If you dont have a meter you could do it by ear, <this might require a trained ear but normally its qute obvious. you can do it like this. set the volume on the headunit around where you would like to turn it up to(NEVER GO TO MAX) normally around 20 dependant on brand and model works nice. Turn the gain and bassboost all the way down on your amp. BASBOOST=BAD then play a tone lets say of around 45-50 hz then slowly turn up the gain till you hear the sound of the sub changing..then back of a little. This is considdered a a fairly good way of doing it. But best yet if ur not sure get it on a O scope is fail proof (not noob proof) but the right way of doing it.

_BAN_ double negative doent make it right, but then again whatever tickles your fancy at the end of the day that is all that matters

maybe you can try http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/home/in...calculatorflash let us know how it turn out. what are you tuning to?

amps dont come with cables but you can normally get the cables for less if you buy a amp from a audio shop. forget the rear speakers bro unless you watch 5.1 DVD's or have a very long truck or car

never heard hybrid Audio but heard good things. can also look into cdt, hertz, morel,dls focal and the likes...seas also not bad o and passive is the way to go if ur a noob and way easier to get right

Hi Can i please have a copy of the BL 12' specs..webbie is down.. Need to start buying wood hope you guys arnt part of the storm struck area's

so questimate around a 137/8 on the TL?> Get us some TL scores too...Nice clean install btw

*edit Stupid double post

Hey man, Running active normally gives you more flexability and sound a lot better but cost a fair bit more. if you want to keep things clean try to stick to the same line of amps. Personally id go with the sundown but to be honest the RF isnt a bad choice. The Q i never tried before but they say it takes a while to run in but once its there its very nice and hit the lows nicely. If you like loud and clean considder porting your box and tuning low id think maybe 30 Hz should work nicely for you. as for upper freq speakers id avoid the alpines unless u get those made by scanspeak(love) stock electrical should work just fine for you but keep you eyes on that volt meter. you will also need 0/1(the size of my thumb and the size of your willy) cable from the bat to your trunk(distrubution block) and split it from there to ur amps. Any thing you add to elec from here will be a bonus. now you can go and impress those Essex-Girls have fun dude ......and we want to see pics

sibscribed..this should be fun and not tooo hard. considder using 1" acrylic and bolt it to the back part of that box so that you don loose all sight to the rear. my 0.02 cents ...have fun

looking good man; decently sized trunk you have there..what car is it?

what still no pics?

you should be fine man, im running a 85 amp alt and stock bat pushing around 1200 RMS for the time being no issue's(except for extended tone burst) the big 3 gave me a more stable voltage and a 0.3volt increase in voltage under load. the car is still new and the metal is still fresh; they told me no need to reinvorce my grounding...boy were they wrong. btw remember to fuse that cable from your alt to your bat. a few inches from you bat will be best and for your system I think a 100-150 ANL fuse should do the trick.

thats wack yo. I like the cart idea; i suppose a wheelbarrow will work just as well.. what do you use to power these? 5x deepcycle batts?

Excellent stuff, but I'd only choose it if you're leaving it natural. If it's getting covered anyway, I'm not sure I'd bother with the expense. my car is kind of weak and weight is a issue. Also which is considered stronger as im planning to use single baffle(weight reason) and treaded-rod the hell out of the box. also if we have to get technical which theoretically sounds better. i could stain the wood if i dont carpet but i refuse to leave it bear. btw the box will be for two bl's off topic; Just found someone that can help with my alt issue after a year of sending mails and negotiating. <<--just had to share this whooohooo

should be fine but ulll prob be better of with a T1500BD or a something like a saz-1500 my0.02 cents based on word of mouth

haha I AM A going to be the installer-so it better be good.. im more worried about the formulas used to calculate the box. btw ever tried birch or marine ply? shall i go with 3/4 as well?

all raitie then. i have downloaded winsd or whatever pro(its free btw) i also managed to find a app called "bass box pro" or something like that. Maybe i can use all these many aps and compare the results...no im not going to build 4-5 boxes just ONE for the time being but i will feed these aps the same info as far as possible. Then if i have time and money to pay the internet bills ill do a review. on ease of use and results etc. the bad news is project will start in around 2months from now. Good News is if it turns out to sound sh!t then another project will follow shortly after..if cash permits. Was thinking of trying birch or marine ply but a bit scared cos i only used MDF before and build mostly sealed boxes for public performance. let me know what you guys think

BUMP

Bro how about the tool on this site is it any good? any one actually use it?

so how good does these boxes sound and do they get loud? plan is for two loaded BL's in a 4cbf common chamber tuned to 32 hz