rushnrun

the 1.4ohm is 2 ohm nominal (I assume the reading is vc's in series.)... the dual 1 ohm woofer is the one you want, wire it in series and you're set

X2 tite bond works much better than liquid nails, it absorbs into the wood making it "one-piece" the liquid nails is flexible and not really a good choice. (several people use liquid nails, however, I cannot suggest using it.)

"window" bracing is easier/cheaper than threaded rod... the dowels will help... better than nothing (as long as you can get them secured w/out cracking the wood) also more expensive than the 2x4 route.

needs the back, top and bottom plates braced (even a simple 2"x2" brace will help. with that large of a panel you'll have flex. my general rule of thumb is if it's over 18" (long or wide) it needs a brace. I didn't run the numbers but looks good.

I've seen some with three leads... but the third is for the dustcap light.... never seen a 3 VC subwoofer....

I've never seen an amp that "strapped" in that manner.... Never strapped my sundowns so I dunno... the massive's , soundstreams, and swiss amps that I have all strap differently than that... check your owner's manual... (unless that's one of jacob's own diagrams...)

I talked to a Dodge tech today... he said if I remove the cat it'll throw the engine code and cause the truck to get worse gas milage (due to the errors the ECU would see) so I guess I'm putting a cat back on... I didn't get the exhaust done this week but in the near future it'll come together. Got the brakes and gas tank taken care of (finally after a ton of issues) just pulled the truck out of the garage woohooo... Stereo time tomorrow!!!

Not t argue... but to clarify..... I have personally ran a pair of these amps for daily/comp. I used my pair on two solo x 10's D1 coils.. for comps I ran the pair at .5ohm for burps, for daily I ran a single amp at 1 ohm (on the pair of woofers) So the amp WILL run one ohm... even half ohm... (for burps) It would be better to run it at 2ohm for daily but these amps can handle 1ohm daily as long as you have the electrical to back it. there is VERY MINIMAL power gains from running one ohm though... So I'd suggest that you get a dual 1 ohm woofer instead of the D2. the amp will most likly last longer and run cooler, not to mention the reduced strain on the electrical.. I don't reccomend running this amp at one ohm if you're a newbie/novice... you need to understand the electrical backing that is required to effectivley run this amp at one ohm daily.

It won't run 1/2 ohm bridged..... well atleast if it's built like the massives. the massive's will go directly into protect (which is how the protection should work)

the sundown 4-channel can support active(I think).. You don't necessarily have to have a deck that does it. Having it on the cd player makes adjustments at your finger tips instead of in the trunk but.... You can still get decent sound without going active.. I

well I decided to remove all the wiring and lines and sandblast the frame where the tank is (Only where the tank sits/covers--I'll do the rest when I have more time). got it blasted today and it looks good. I'll undercoat tomorrow and get the lines and tank all hooked back up. should get some stereo work done on friday.. I need it to be functional for sunday. (not a comp, but I have a show to go to.) ***I'lll get some pics of the sandblasting posted later... the frame of the truck is/was rusty as heck...

did a little testing today... tried to get to a lower ohm load.... Massive P950.5 5 channel amp rated to do 550w at 2 ohm on the sub channel (I entered the wrong rms value in the previous post). rewired the sub to be parallel (1 ohm nominal_resting) The gas tank is out of the truck so this is just off my one extra Batt... Voltage was low to start(12.2) with and dropped even lower... dropped down to 30hz for testing to get the ohms down (impedence rise)... Power Consumed: 11.7volts-49.6amps=580.8watts Power Produced: 33.8 volts-15.6amps=527.28watts 33.8/15.6=2.17ohm that's still roughly 90.8% efficient @ 2.17 ohm...! so it's almost doing full rated power at 2.17ohm, 11.7volts and at 30 hz also did a db reading at the same time... basically 130db at 30 hz with just 500watts and a single 12 not Loud at all...

X2 there's a TON of people running the crunch amp. *I run the Massive Counter part to the audiopipe 3000 (the same board as the AudioPipe--they don't seem to be the same build quality as eachother--the massive is a little nicer IMO) I really like the massive amps, small footprint, good efficiency, and do rated.. from what I've heard the AudioPipes aren't as efficient as the massives. I really need to get an audiopipe to test.

you can pick up one of my used massive P1500.1's fairly cheap

ahh bottom left corner on main page... no more "?" banner

Lucky you I'm trying to figure out how to turn it off...

$2 for the pump..... not getting a mouth full of gas.... priceless... the tanks out... I'm gonna fix a few other things while I'm down there... my cat's plugged/broken (it rattles internally) so she's coming off, muffler's rusting out too.... Looks like straight pipes and glass packs are going on Also re-doing my $200 break job that I just had done. they didn't even mount the new lines... there just hanging there... grrrr..

how do you change the theme???? it's annoying as Heck

got a mouthfull of gas today... and still can't get the fuel to flow outta the tank grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr...... got like a pint before it stopped running... gonna be a long process at that rate going to napa to pick up an electric fuel pump... save me some heartache and heartburn.... been burpin' gasoline for an hour...

wtf??? you need a d1 to wire to 2.... it's ohm's law.... try looking it up yourself...

I just did some more testing.... I the other day I used the ten in a box tuned to 45 hz and today the 12 in a box tuned to 30hz both boxes peak twice... once at the box's freq (not the tuning but a little higher than the tuning) and they both peak at a different note But the same note on both boxes (the freq that the truck resonates at...)... **not super accurate but close enough for me... for now... **the QC 12 does almost the same SPL number at 20hz as it does at 40hz with my low power it's only like 130db but nice to see a woofer play pretty flat across the freqs... (other than at the box peak and the vehicle peak) the woofer rolls off around 60hz though (about 2db down)... (probably due to the low tuning)

it's cool for a reference, but it's gonna be in the wrong location for one, and it's an audiocontrol for two.... I think all ORGS use termlabs these days...

Oh, are you talking about the speaker wire?? I automatically assumed you were talking about the power. You have to pull the boot loose from both the door and the frame. I held the boot as tight as I could with my left hand and fed the wire through with my right. It's a bit of a pain but I got it done. **don't tape the wires that are going through the boot.. the tape sticks to the boot and is a huge pain. *I taped the speaker wire to a very slim/long flat head screw driver (the screwdriver is about 10" long) you only want to tape it to the very tip otherwise you'll never be able to get it off the screw driver to pull it through the boot. **you don't want to use force, you need to take your time and wiggle it through, otherwise you could cut into some of the wiring. *** I haven't found my peak freq yet... From some early testing I'd have to say my truck (the vehicle itself)peaks lower.... which is HORRIBLE for SPL but I'll deal with it... It should do some NASTY hair tricks when it's done

mine's a 5.9L 2wd club cab (rear has no doors) It's just the Lariet (*sp) so I guess I still don't know what you're talking about between the doors? I assume you're talking about your rear doors?? My wire runs went real easy so?... if your's has rear doors the whole rear compartment is probably a little different (the seat mounts and such) I'm gonna do some testing today with my single QC 12 to find the sweet spot. My 10 that I normally use to test with is bottoming out so guess it's seen too much high-power testing (i've had it hooked to 5-6k on several occasions)

what year is that? how did you get the wire through the rubber boot? it's a 96... and which boot???? mine has a big 3-4" boot right through the fire wall.. cut a little x in it and call it a day I removed the boot for now, I won't be running one run of 1/0 for very long (possibly... soon to be multiple of a larger gauge )