Impious

If I ever get around to figuring out how it works, I should have a crude measurement setup.

You would have to ask all of the former-owners of now defunct internet-based car audio businesses who proceed him A lot of them burned down in a blaze of ignorance and misdirection. Or you can ask Ben Milne how he's managed to lie and cheat for nearly a decade yet still remain in business. Oh, and not all forums are educated. Have you visited some of the others?.....

95db w/ response down to 50hz and 250w continuous power handling and clean response to 5khz+ is still pretty....umm, extreme, for an 8" driver. well honestly I dont know what to look for on how to tell if a speaker set is good or not. I know with subwoofers but speaker set's are totally different. What stats should I be looking at? As far as low frequency response, a speaker is exactly the same as subwoofers. They are all the same thing. And the same set of parameters define their low frequency performance. You'll just be dealing with a different bandwidth of frequencies. As far as midrange performance, there's no real "stats" to look at as the T/S parameters define the low frequency response of a driver only. One indicator would be inductance, as a driver's inductance and resistance work together to basically form a classic first order lowpass filter. So if, for example, the driver's inductance induces roll-off beginning around 2khz....you can pretty much rule out performance up to 5khz. Beyond that, it's really beneficial to see the actual measured performance of the driver.....frequency response, impedance curve, distortion measurements, etc. But there are some things to "expect".....I would reasonable expect an 8" cone to experience some break-up issues somewhere below 5khz, for example.

You do realize the only reason I'm planning to purchase a pair is frankly because I don't believe the claims, correct ? The comment was made tongue-in-cheek. But if they end up as cheap as people are saying, I'll buy a pair to see how they hold up to the claims....again, because I don't really believe it. EDIT: Oh, and no response to the email yet But I don't know what their turn around time on emails are.

95db w/ response down to 50hz and 250w continuous power handling plus clean response to 5khz+ is still pretty....umm, extreme, for an 8" driver.

What equipment do you have currently? Unless your amplifier is junk or severely underpowered, you're best bet for (potentially) significantly improving performance is to change out the subwoofer. If your prefab box is appropriately sized and appropriately constructed it won't hurt anything to use it.

Can you recommend a car that's really fast but also handles well in a wide variety of situations? Attn NOOBS!!!! SSA Guidelines to Effectively Answer Your Questions

that was a beat that we downloaded from a website called freesound.org I was just being a smart ass because of the comment made in the video

Audax PR170M0 6.5" Midrange - 100dB from Madisound 100db sensitivity. But with .5mm Xmax you aren't going to get much midbass out of them IIRC companies like B&C, 18sound, Eminence and Faital all have high sensitivity 6.5" mids. But.... We have that stinking Hoffman's Law to contend with. Problem with small drivers is their small cone area, so you really need to give up the ghost in low frequency performance in order to gain efficiency. So how they were able to get 50hz performance out of a 6.5" with 94db sensitivity and 250w continuous power handling (which will be put to the test if I remember to get a pair).....I'll be very interested to find out. BTW, I have an email dispatched to them to try to get a little more info. We'll see if they divulge.

Nice video. What song was that?

Clicked the link expecting to see a video of 20 people climbing out of the car

Hmmm....so now we have a high efficiency driver than can play down to 50hz and handle a continuous 250w? I'm going to have to buy me a pair of these. When are they going to be available again?

Technically yes, but why in the world would he spend $100+ on a Maxxlink when he can accomplish exactly what he wants with a $1.50 part from Radio Shack ? But is a line driver too. You also get pretty chrome too.$80 online all day long. He doesn't need a line driver. Waste-O-Money no matter what it costs as long as it's more than a couple bucks, which is all he needs to solve his problem.

There's no reason with today's technology to look at big, low impedance class A/B amplifiers when you can get exactly the same performance in a potentially smaller and more efficient package with other amplifier classes. While it may be big in Italy for whatever reason (can't say I can understand the appeal of the systems in the above links personally), the rest of the world is advancing with technology into the future with amplifier designs that provide more benefits than class A/B has to offer. I've really yet to see any valid reasoning as to why you feel the need for the amplifiers to be class A/B as opposed to other topologies other than "because it's the big thing in Italy right now". That's not really valid reasoning, that's just following the herd. Class A/B has it's place as a topology.....big, high powered, low impedance amplifiers isn't really that place anymore.

Technically yes, but why in the world would he spend $100+ on a Maxxlink when he can accomplish exactly what he wants with a $1.50 part from Radio Shack ?

Why?

That is a disgrace to Camaros of every generation.....even the ugly one's from the '70s

Lies !

It does not affect the level of the channels. But what you might be hearing is a change in frequency response.

Stop it Goddammit !

I'm not overly familiar with that Pioneer deck, but my intuition would be that you are supposed to measure the difference in distance between the two speakers at the listening position and then use that difference in inches (or centimeters, however you prefer to measure) as the adjustment on the headunit. So, for example, if your left speaker is 24" from your head, and the right speaker is 42" from your head, you would delay the left side by 18". However I've always just done it by ear. It would be very helpful if you had a decent track with reasonable imaging to begin with.

I don't know anything about your alternator, vehicle accessories or how you will end up using your stereo system......but I personally would probably go for the HC1800.

It's one of my pet peeves

Last time I checked, the Sundown 3500 was Xenon. It's Zenon. Xenon was an amplifier line by Phoenix Gold. http://www.zenonaudio.com/logout/company/introduction.htm

Really need to know much more about your stereo before we can assist you in setting time alignment. What speakers are installed, and where are they installed at?